ARF 16610 LV Submariner 904L Kermit photo review

[God of rolex]

Where you buy the gen Datewheel?

Got some new parts for this bad boy, trying on the blue insert first. I will do the VS movement swap when I have the time.

 

[Cadows]

Believe it’s a straight swap. I will find out soon enough.

Bro can you shoot me the link to the movement?

 

[Cadows]

Found a VS3135 alone on that taobao site but its pricey. USD230 if I calculated it correctly.

https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=626784329689&item_id=626784329689

 

[McPwn]

Believe it’s a straight swap. I will find out soon enough.

Should be, my VR3135 was a straight swap into my ARF 16610 LN. Would like to switch to the VS if possible! The winding on the stock VR is a bit rough.

 

[joseduarte]

Any flaws on the case or bracelet?

 

[Cadows]

Any flaws on the case or bracelet?

And this is your first post....

 

[joseduarte]

And this is your first post....

Yes, why?!

 

[Crabber]

So my take on this thread to this point is that ARF and JF have the "best" 16610LV's out there right now....however, looking at the pics when compared to a gen 16610LV, to my eyes neither have the correct Green color is that just me? Is it a version thing?

Would be interested in further comment as I want to pull the trigger on a JF 1:1 Best Edition SH3135 that one of the TDs has on their page, JF seems more accurate overall and a better starting point to franken.

Other than the ARF having "904L" steel (which I can see a color difference in but personally see no value to)....the ARF has too many other issues vs the JF for me ...crystal is too high, 2 is hookeed too long, Crown stamped into bracelet is off center, fonts on datewheel are crap, crown guards a wrong (I guess you can reshape those).

To throw another version into the mix BP Maker's bezel color seems closer to the gen in the pics in this thread....but on the same TDs site it comes with the least desirable A3135 movement. I have no technical issues with throwing out the A3135 and swapping in a VR or VS3135 maybe this is the way to go??

 

[McPwn]

So my take on this thread to this point is that ARF and JF have the "best" 16610LV's out there right now....however, looking at the pics when compared to a gen 16610LV, to my eyes neither have the correct Green color is that just me? Is it a version thing?

Would be interested in further comment as I want to pull the trigger on a JF 1:1 Best Edition SH3135 that one of the TDs has on their page, JF seems more accurate overall and a better starting point to franken.

Other than the ARF having "904L" steel (which I can see a color difference in but personally see no value to)....the ARF has too many other issues vs the JF for me ...crystal is too high, 2 is hookeed too long, Crown stamped into bracelet is off center, fonts on datewheel are crap, crown guards a wrong (I guess you can reshape those).

To throw another version into the mix BP Maker's bezel color seems closer to the gen in the pics in this thread....but on the same TDs site it comes with the least desirable A3135 movement. I have no technical issues with throwing out the A3135 and swapping in a VR or VS3135 maybe this is the way to go??

JF isnt available anymore. ARF or BP are the only options.

 

[shel504]

So my take on this thread to this point is that ARF and JF have the "best" 16610LV's out there right now....however, looking at the pics when compared to a gen 16610LV, to my eyes neither have the correct Green color is that just me? Is it a version thing?

Would be interested in further comment as I want to pull the trigger on a JF 1:1 Best Edition SH3135 that one of the TDs has on their page, JF seems more accurate overall and a better starting point to franken.

Other than the ARF having "904L" steel (which I can see a color difference in but personally see no value to)....the ARF has too many other issues vs the JF for me ...crystal is too high, 2 is hookeed too long, Crown stamped into bracelet is off center, fonts on datewheel are crap, crown guards a wrong (I guess you can reshape those).

To throw another version into the mix BP Maker's bezel color seems closer to the gen in the pics in this thread....but on the same TDs site it comes with the least desirable A3135 movement. I have no technical issues with throwing out the A3135 and swapping in a VR or VS3135 maybe this is the way to go??

A BP Kermit is next on my list. I prefer the bezel and you always have the option to correct the movement. Plus, not having to mess with ARF's date wheel or high crystal

 

[Crabber]

Saw earlier in the thread that JF wasn't available....but a TD has it listed on their site. I sent them an email to as they say in China "double confirm."

 

[Stevenf]

Should be, my VR3135 was a straight swap into my ARF 16610 LN. Would like to switch to the VS if possible! The winding on the stock VR is a bit rough.

Just an update on my swap, everything fits except for the minute hand, which was loose after I installed it. Another member advised me to pinch the center collar of the minute hand to make it tighter.

Seems too risky a move for my shaky hands. My next alternative would be to source for another set of hands.

 

[Stevenf]

Should be, my VR3135 was a straight swap into my ARF 16610 LN. Would like to switch to the VS if possible! The winding on the stock VR is a bit rough.

Just an update on my swap, everything fits except for the minute hand, which was loose after I installed it. Another member advised me to pinch the center collar of the minute hand to make it tighter.

Seems too risky a move for my shaky hands. My next alternative would be to source for another set of hands.

 

[McPwn]

Just an update on my swap, everything fits except for the minute hand, which was loose after I installed it. Another member advised me to pinch the center collar of the minute hand to make it tighter.

Seems too risky a move for my shaky hands. My next alternative would be to source for another set of hands.

I wouldnt mess with modding the hands. you sure it was pushed down all the way? just apply gentle even force.

 

[Stevenf]

I wouldnt mess with modding the hands. you sure it was pushed down all the way? just apply gentle even force.

Yes it was, and still loose. But they fit fine on the original SH. Wonder if it’s possible to swap the SH pinion over?

 

[Replisimio]

Yes it was, and still loose. But they fit fine on the original SH. Wonder if it’s possible to swap the SH pinion over?

I had the same issue when I swapped to VR so simply pinched the tube slightly with tweezers as it only needs slight tightening and it was perfect. Perhaps you need to leave this to a watch maker.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Cadows]

I wonder if Kermit hands are the same as six digit ceramic Sub hands?

 

[McPwn]

I wonder if Kermit hands are the same as six digit ceramic Sub hands?

Different lume color, as 6 digits use chromalight which is blue and kermits use super luminova which glow green.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[Cadows]

Different lume color, as 6 digits use chromalight which is blue and kermits use super luminova which glow green.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I know that bro, I was asking about shape and size

 

[Stevenf]

I had the same issue when I swapped to VR so simply pinched the tube slightly with tweezers as it only needs slight tightening and it was perfect. Perhaps you need to leave this to a watch maker.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice! This is more of a practice piece for me so I would prefer to try everything on my own first (and destroy countless parts in the process!).

I actually tried the pinching and now the opening is too small. I will try to widen it the next time I work on this again.

I may potentially ruin the hands altogether so my next move could be:

1) look out for JF/TC/ARF/BP hands on m2m
2) get 116610 hands + dial and relume
3) get a BP 16610lv watch altogether and use its hands + dial