Wrong hand stacks

[occb2]

Also I have to add one thing. It is so much easier to have a 2836 than a rolex 3185. For all who don't know, a real rolex 3185 does not have quick set. So you click hour by hour to advance the day forward. Rolex does not recommend going backwards even though it works. You don't move the min had because that is how you set the GMT on a 3185. So you kind of have to keep it in a winder. LOL. Were a GMT clone with a 2836, you just go opposite the direction you adjust the gmt and you can quick set the date.

 

[R2L]

[MENTION=84805]occb2[/MENTION], as always you make some great points, and I for one cannot argue with you.

However, how many of you are there out there in the world. Of the 110,000 members here, how many can spot the flaws in this build, and other builds like it, as readily as you can? In the general population, especially here in the US, most won't know what it is, or if you tell them it's a Rolex, will often respond with: "Is it real?" Whether it's real or a rep.
Here on the rep fora we have a great concentration of specialist hobbyists who are more than likely to tell a rep from a gen, but in the rest of the world, they either don't care, or assume it's a fake just because there are so many fakes out there. And whether it has a CHS or ICHS doesn't even cross their mind.
So for us it is a vigorous discussion involving a technicality that only interests us and a few others in the rest of the world.
Congrats to you for acquiring a very rare CHS ceramic GMTII! I am envious, but financially I cannot do anything about it other than vicariously enjoy yours.


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[R2L]

One additional point I wanted to add was that what we here label ICHS in the Rolex reps is actually the CHS for any ETA based GMTs, whether rep or gen. So gen GMT Omegas, Breitlings, PAMs, and others which use the ETA movement, all have as CHS what we term as ICHS in the rep Rolex.
Where rep ETA based GMTs differ from gens is that the gen GMT ETA is the 2893, and not the 2836.

But your point is still very well made, and I'll make sure I'm not sitting anywhere near you on my next cruise (lol).


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[occb2]

[MENTION=82245]Ride2live[/MENTION], Thanks. Love that watch. Wait until I get the dial for the 16700 that I got the case for. I won a case on EBay with the whole bezel assembly and insert and crystal as one unit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272077873976?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and I just won a dial, http://www.ebay.com/itm/172034150029?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I have the movement that Mike builds which starts off as a yuki 3135 he services it and puts the Rolex parts that make it built proof and then orders all the parts from Rolex to make it a 3185. He has the hands already so that is going to be another CHS, but older, GMT. Next one is the spider dial that I got from Stonep. I have to find a case for it. No one makes replica cases for the GMT's from the 80's till now. So I have to rely on Ebay for them. They are not cheap.


Happy new year brothers

 

[occb2]

LOL

 

[R2L]

[MENTION=82245]Ride2live[/MENTION], Thanks. Love that watch. Wait until I get the dial for the 16700 that I got the case for. I won a case on EBay with the whole bezel assembly and insert and crystal as one unit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272077873976?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and I just won a dial, http://www.ebay.com/itm/172034150029?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I have the movement that Mike builds which starts off as a yuki 3135 he services it and puts the Rolex parts that make it built proof and then orders all the parts from Rolex to make it a 3185. He has the hands already so that is going to be another CHS, but older, GMT. Next one is the spider dial that I got from Stonep. I have to find a case for it. No one makes replica cases for the GMT's from the 80's till now. So I have to rely on Ebay for them. They are not cheap.


Happy new year brothers

Wow! This will be an incredible build once it's all done. Look forward to reading about it's progress and enjoying the pics that'll come with it.

Happy New Year to you as well! Look forward to reading more of your posts.


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[occb2]

Thanks brother.

We should plan a huge RWI Cruise!!!! That would be great!

 

[R2L]

Thanks brother.

We should plan a huge RWI Cruise!!!! That would be great!

Agreed!


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[zocker4711]

It's all Blah blah with the Correct Hand Stack or not...
You can't see it by sitting on the Table... You can see the CHS or not only 2x Times a Day when the Hands pass each other... Then you can see it...
The Case Dimension of the Noob and GEN is 1:1 only the CG is different...
I dunno why the People say first to an good Rep WOW what an nice and great Watch, and at the second Point they say "Nahhh what an cheap copy"
If we compare an Rolex Rep vs an GEN we'll find on every Model differents.

Let me say short "There is NO 1:1 Rolex Copy" absolut NO one! Also TC not. They are close but not 1:1

So if we talk about to spot an Fake of an GEN i can give you an hint how you can spot it from 1mtr distance when the light is bright and your eyes are good.

And for that I don't need to see the Dial, Hands or any other Part of these.

All you need to look at is the Rehaut... This Part tells you if the Watch is Fake or not.
There is absolutely NO Rep that have these nice Shinny Rehaut as the GEN have. And this point fit on every new 6 digit Rolex Model. But also the older Models have an much nicer Shinne.

Second Part will be the Steel on all Sport Models... The GEN Steel is 904 and makes an much nicer and Harder Bright Shinne as the Rep have. You can Polish the Rep Steel and do some light Breaking Methods to make them better.
But the GEN Steel is totally different.

And cutting the Feets of an Dial that is an mass Product is an Dead give away???
So why does it makes more Sense to spend soooo much $$$ into an Yuki Movement what would be in the end an Rep Movement?

So everyone must know it self

So I for my self own a few GEN Rolexes and I have Compare and study them a lot... So don't believe these mystic I can spot the ICH... At the next Time check the Rehaut and that from an distance... Go to the next AD Window look at the Rolexes, move 1mtr away from the Window and look at the Watch


Soooo now which you all an Happy New Year

 

[mech500]

^you're are right as always. No one in the real world will be able to spot ICHS

BUT....

We don't wear reps to only fool other people. I think a lot of people here like to fool themselves - that's how they can enjoy their reps.



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[zocker4711]

Must add one thing! There is one Rolex GMT where you can see the different btw CHS or not really good... Forget this always
If you own an GEN Rolex Polar 216570 you can see the different really good... Because the White Dial shows you the Distance btw Hour Hand and Dial really good... You have the Combination Black and White

 

[zocker4711]

And Rolex don't say that you can't or shouldn't set the Date forward and backward at the GMT Movemnts...
The only thing that you should do is, the same as on all Watches
Do not set btw 21:00 - 02:00
So I set my GMTs in both directions without any problem...

 

[occb2]

@zocker4711, I am not by far saying you have a cheap rep. I am sorry if you took it that way. What I am saying is that I would not have cut the hands. You my friend can do with what you own, anything your heart desires. Sorry you took it that way.

On rolex movements there is no stress on the date wheel. That is an ETA thing. Rolex you can go back and forth all your heart desires. On the 3185, different story. It isn't the date wheel you are putting stress on it is the gear that jumps the hour and like I said, you can do it but dealers prefer you go forward but if your a two days back it makes no sense to jump forward 28 days but if your 16 days they would prefer you to go forward. That came right out of Hans who is a rolex watch maker at NY Rolex USA. So take it up with them.

Good luck on your watch sell. It is a beauty.

 

[R2L]

Great to hear from you, [MENTION=61105]zocker4711[/MENTION] and to read your comments.

The other tell you mentioned on another post elsewhere, is the largersize of the rep hands where they attach to the center pinion. If you look at the round circle (don't know the correct term for this) of the GMT hand on the stack in the pics in "post 51" you will see a difference in size between the rep and the gen hands. And I believe this also applies to the hands found on Sub-Cs as well, so it's not just seen on the ceramic GMTIIs.


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[zocker4711]

No I have understand it right no worrie
And the Watch is already Sold...

But what I mean is, it makes absolutely no sense to build in an Modded Yuki for over 1000,-$
And get at the End an unstable Rep Movement... I know hat Misikpied do absolutely nice Work on that.
But if you look often at the sale platforms like the bay etc you can catch an 3185 Movement for 1500-1600,-$
And then you have an real Deal Movement... But at the End of the Day I look at the Rehaut and identity your Rolex as Rep.
So everyone can do what his Heart desire as you said...

But in my eyes it makes more Sense to use an ETA Movement in an Rep Watch, because you can grab sooooo many Watchsmiths with that Movement if something happen.
At the Modified Yuki not everyone will do his Work

So everyone must choose self which Part is important for him and which not...

 

[zocker4711]

[MENTION=41326]RIDE[/MENTION] what you mean is the CP so the different is the size of the CP
The GEN CP of the Gears are much finer and so the Hole is also smaller...
At the ETA Movement Gears the CP is much thicker and so you will have the differents...

So you can change that if you use GEN Hands... But when you want add the GEN Second Hand on an ETA Movement, you must drill the CP Hole bigger. The GEN Hand don't fit...
Or you grab an SA3135 Movement at the SubC then you also don't need to cut the Dial Feets

 

[occb2]

I am a Yuki fan. I have them running in 4 watches. By far, not unstable. They are from the factory and yes it is costly to service and I have to spend $300 on rolex parts to get it to not be unstable. I would put a well clean and service Yuki with the unstable parts replaced with real rolex parts against a Rolex 3135. The newer ones Yuki is putting out is better. He now made the balancing assembly adjustable on the sides so you can dial it in better.

I am on eBay all day long. I have never seen a 3185 really go up on eBay let alone go for $1500 dollars. In fact the cheapest I've seen one ever is around $1800. A 3135 on the other hand, I have 2 sitting down stairs in my watch chest. Those I got for $1400 and that was with me going to get it. Then I had to get it serviced. And $1800 and that one was already serviced. They are going into my next builds. I will keep my eyes open for a $1500 3185. I will buy that in a heart beat. Thanks for the information.

 

[zocker4711]

Here you see also the small CP

 

[occb2]

That is a beauty!!!

 

[R2L]

[MENTION=41326]RIDE[/MENTION] what you mean is the CP so the different is the size of the CP
The GEN CP of the Gears are much finer and so the Hole is also smaller...
At the ETA Movement Gears the CP is much thicker and so you will have the differents...

So you can change that if you use GEN Hands... But when you want add the GEN Second Hand on an ETA Movement, you must drill the CP Hole bigger. The GEN Hand don't fit...
Or you grab an SA3135 Movement at the SubC then you also don't need to cut the Dial Feets

Thank you, bro, for the clarification. Much appreciated.

To both your points, gentlemen, a lot depends on the budget you have for your build(s) and the subsequent tells that result or remain because of it. The more gen or gen-like parts you include, the fewer the tells, until you go completely gen. And that then becomes a personal decision, with the owner coming to terms with the (in)adequecies of their final product.


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