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Where does Crownartcustoms get his inserts from?

Singapore9

Singapore9

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The bit I don't know is if the pores are open when you laser it back as you take away a small top layer of the aluminium surface, so you'd need to open them back up (with acid?), which would strip the black die off it. Whilst laser engravers weren't available to Rolex back in the day, I would be surprised if they didn't try many methods, before coming up with the pad printed mask method as 'the best'.
 
Singapore9

Singapore9

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Anyone checked out the Tokyo Santa inserts; think I was confusing these with the Lobtime: https://www.ebay.com/itm/135070820386

@Karbon74 - Thoughts? They usually have a few styles, albeit only a couple at the moment. Worth following.

Edited to add; think these are the same as Lobtime, looking at the pics... perhaps TS buys from Lobtime, who are the cheaper source!
 
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Karbon74

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Singapore9 said:
Anyone checked out the Tokyo Santa inserts; think I was confusing these with the Lobtime: https://www.ebay.com/itm/135070820386

@Karbon74 - Thoughts? They usually have a few styles, albeit only a couple at the moment. Worth following.

Edited to add; think these are the same as Lobtime, looking at the pics... perhaps TS buys from Lobtime, who are the cheaper source!
Click to expand...

I have no money.
I bought the Lobtime insert at 75$ and I thought it was expensive already 😅
 
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Singapore9

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Karbon74 said:
I have no money.
I bought the Lobtime insert at 75$ and I thought it was expensive already 😅
Click to expand...
This is part of the reason I can't understand CAC aftermarket 5513 black insert pricing... GEN service inserts can be found much cheaper, or sources such as Lob, for something 'fancier', <$100. Ok, there are GMT inserts and obviously the blue inserts, which are far more difficult to find elsewhere (plexi size), which should command a premium.

But blistered GEN black 5513, 16610 and alike inserts are available for <$300, and second hand from ~$100. I got a slightly beat up 16610 with good pearl for ~$30 the other day and a serif 5513 in perfect condition ~$100 (n fact, two in the last couple of years). Can fade your own from there and create ~$600 worth of insert looking at ebay asking prices. There is a business there, As CaC shows (if those faded GENs sell at that money).
 
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WatchN3RD

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Singapore9 said:
I believe for anodising, you can only effectively dye once, hence the need for masking i.e. you can anodise in silver and then you'd need to paint the black. You open the pores, 'fill' with silver, then the pores are 'full', so adding black dye over the top wouldn't 'stick'... at least that's how I see it in my head!

I would still be interested in seeing a black anodised and then laser engraved insert, perhaps then sealed, so the engraving isn't 'inset' to the black layer.
Click to expand...
I've heard the exact same, you can't fill the pores twice. Although I've also heard sometimes a darker color can tint a lighter color, so it's possible a mask is still used over the silver dye. I'm sure it's depends on the specific method being used, but anodizing silver over black is not likely to cause issues. Black over silver could potentially darken the silver though.
 
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est4129

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Singapore9 said:
Interesting - some do look good and the prices pretty reasonable as well... except postage! Would be interested in a thread when they arrive! I wish they would do some blue ones.

More specifically, I wish someone would do a 'textured' blue insert for the 70s Tudor 9411s. CAC has the fonts and the colours, but they're all 'smooth', Rolex bezels.
Click to expand...
I would gladly pay CAC prices for a correct blue tudor insert!
 
Hor-Fan

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Thrasher said:
Lobtime https://lobtime.com/shop/ols/products/5513bezelinsert and Tokyo Santa are the exact same photo of a 1680 insert https://www.ebay.com/itm/135070820443?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=777008&algo=PERSONAL.TOPIC&ao=1&asc=20240131095853&meid=4fd0070fca9048758135efaac5d616a2&pid=101949&rk=1&rkt=1&itm=135070820443&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=4375194&algv=RecentlyViewedItemsV2&brand=Rolex&_trksid=p4375194.c101949.m162918&_trkparms=parentrq:d0cea71618f0a8d8c7dfd64dffffee9a|pageci:9beaba12-1f9e-11ef-a3eb-966413cd369f|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage
Click to expand...
Screw you “Tokyo Santa”! I’m taking my bidness to Lobtime!
 
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WatchN3RD

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I'm testing out two new vendors for 1675 inserts. I'll be sure to update everyone if they turn out to be nice. As of now, I think Milk has/had the best inserts when comparing quality and price. The only reason I didn't just buy from him is that he only does small runs or batches. Meaning, I might have purchased a couple vintage inserts months ago that were amazing, but those are all sold and he has a modern style available now. It's simply an analogy. Different runs may have different colors/shades/fonts, etc.

So, I'm all about Milk's 1675 inserts. But hopefully, these two sources turn out great too! Will keep everyone updated assuming my identity and banking information hasn't been stolen, twice...
 
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Singapore9

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est4129 said:
I would gladly pay CAC prices for a correct blue tudor insert!
Click to expand...
Yeah, a correct textured insert would be worth the asking but I don't think anyone has even tried to my knowledge. Assume it must be some sort of sand casting on the numbered side?
 
Singapore9

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oldtools said:
I haven't tried this, but I think if you want a faded, textured insert, you need to use one of these...

www.ebay.com

Portable Soda Blaster,Sand Blaster, Professional Sandblasting Gun, Media Blaster | eBay

Inlet connector: 1/4 "pneumatic sandblasting machine, rust resistant sandblasting machine. Application: sandblasting machine. 1 X Sandblasting Machine. Size: 30 21 8.5cm / 11.8 x 8.3 x 3.3 in. Item weight: 410g.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I think that would be too fine a finish but that is a great shout... someone must have one to give it a go!
 
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WatchN3RD

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Sandblasting, or more specifically, media blasting, is one route. I think the other options are chemical etching, or clear coating with an industrial clear. And I forgot, there's a forth. You can reanodize the aluminum and seal the pores. Just skip the dye process and seal it.

My questions are:
-Is the fade?
-The texture more important?

I've played with lots of chemicals, and I used to hear people prefer a nice shiny finish. Others like some texture.

I'll figure it out. By the way, I destroyed all the bezels on the right, just received the one on the left. Probably one of Crowns sources? It's a nice bezel untouched. Curious on the community's thoughts.
 
Singapore9

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For a Tudor Snowflake, the texture is more important (to me) as they came textured from the factory (in the 70s) like that, new, which differentiated them from 5513/1680 inserts. If you have a mid-70s Snowflake with a smooth insert, it's either service/later/incorrect/REP. I have smooth inserts on my GENs, which is considered 'fine' as of course most have been changed in ~50yrs, but it would be nice having a <$500 option as opposed to struggling to find a nice $2,500 original to keep the factory look.

Would be good to see what results media blasting brought, with different grade of coarseness.

For Rolex... I guess it's all about the fade but that seems well replicated, naturally or otherwise.
 
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