Yes I’m waiting for an Hornback from Vic in black with Black stiching.
My Wrist is too big for the normal ROO Rubber Strap.
Therefore the black one has to wait for Wrist-Time
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What AP Franken(s) do you have in the works?!
- Thread starter tosoboso
- Start date
Yes I’m waiting for an Hornback from Vic in black with Black stiching.
My Wrist is too big for the normal ROO Rubber Strap.
Therefore the black one has to wait for Wrist-Time
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Jurgenk
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Yes I’m waiting for an Hornback from Vic in black with Black stiching.
My Wrist is too big for the normal ROO Rubber Strap.
Therefore the black one has to wait for Wrist-Time
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It looks great— did you source gen subdial hands or did Domi paint or dip Mikey hands?
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Jurgenk
I'm Pretty Popular
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I think you now have one of the best modern RC builds I’ve seen.
I agree 100% by the way about stability of value. Rolex and even Panerai hold their value far better (80-90% for me) and in some cases appreciate. I’d consider getting a gen if this issue weren’t there, but I sense that the depreciation factors the need for expensive servicing which gives you back essentially a new watch but involves tossing a DD module like it’s disposable. I suspect buyers would see more stable value with a 100% in house movement that provides some unique complications or functionality and provides higher levels of anticounterfeiting. AP does finishing like no other but I feel they can do more at that price point.
I agree 100% by the way about stability of value. Rolex and even Panerai hold their value far better (80-90% for me) and in some cases appreciate. I’d consider getting a gen if this issue weren’t there, but I sense that the depreciation factors the need for expensive servicing which gives you back essentially a new watch but involves tossing a DD module like it’s disposable. I suspect buyers would see more stable value with a 100% in house movement that provides some unique complications or functionality and provides higher levels of anticounterfeiting. AP does finishing like no other but I feel they can do more at that price point.
Thanks I loved it also. The white and black Rubberclad’s. White with the Diver is more sporty, the black one with the black Hornback is more classic.
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Some really nice dialogue and also some really nice builds in this thread lately. Just my two cents on a few issues, coming back from hiatus.
1. I would agree that chronos are a nice decorative addition, allowing watch manufacturers to test high-contrast color combinations in the interplay between sub-dials and main dial (unlike monochromatic time/date dials), and also allow mid-case designers to test new chrono button designs, but for me I actually want a reliable chronograph for the simple reason that I like to time recipes very precisely, especially with eggs, pasta, pizza, etc. Some top chefs do the same, and my chrono of choice, in the kitchen, is actually the Rolex Daytona, even though it might be difficult to read off minutes sometimes--never contemplated an Offshore in this function, as the chrono module is, like people already said, unreliable and difficult to service, and the watch is too chunky to imagine not getting damaged against a stove edge, etc. On unreliability of AP chronos: The fact that AP still uses this same DD chrono module piggyback on their in-house calibers speaks volumes about their inability to innovate (because of disagreements in the watch movement design department) and also their lack of interest in Offshore development (they seem more interested nowadays in bringing out an entirely new case design). Gens still have the same chrono module (albeit a little more decorated) as all of our LWO283-based toys, and when AP finally (when? when?) launches their in-house integral chrono, with reduced case thickness (12mm anyone?), my guess is that the old DD-based Offshores will collapse in price overnight.
2. On cost of Offshore Frankens: whoever wants to make a Franken will make one even though prices have tripled in my time. I always thought gen parts would go up in price, and buying-and-holding special dials, hands etc. has proven to be a nice investment strategy with a nice ROI for some. For those of you with multiple Offshore Frankens, you might be advised to just buy a second-hand genuine Offshore for $10k - $12k and swap dials/tachys on that one genuine base when you get bored of the dial/tachy you have on it. Of course, this will not apply to Offshores with different cases, but for the classic plain models with SS case, it might be more cost effective than building 5 or 6 different Frankens. Plus you get all of the advantages of gen mid-case/crystal/hands/pushers/movement-holder/DW cut-out/machining/cyclops/DW, etc. that are hard for many to get right.
3. On the "many little things" that go into a ROO Franken. It is not just the genuine parts (the more the better, no doubt), but all of the machining, nuts/bolts/screws/washers/aftermarket-parts (as difficult to accumulate as gen parts), and the patience (very important) and skill of the assembler who puts it together that will eventually make it magic. Just something as simple on a Franken as a correct pusher action, or a correct date wheel cut-out is something that might take many different parts from many different sources. You guys would laugh at how many "little parts" go into a build, as these general remain hidden from view, but here is a rough sample of some pieces that go into the pusher alone, along with some movement holders, dial base plates, and about 9 containers of other little parts for other things. Because many times these little parts need additional modification dependent on the individual Franken characteristics means that assembly is not a monolithic just-screw-it-together operation, but more an art, requiring a lot of previous experience and understanding of the system as a whole.
4. 5. 6. 7. There are many other comments I would like to make on some of the things that have been said, but not much time for it, I am afraid.. so, over and out, for now.
Here aforementioned picture of the "little things":
1. I would agree that chronos are a nice decorative addition, allowing watch manufacturers to test high-contrast color combinations in the interplay between sub-dials and main dial (unlike monochromatic time/date dials), and also allow mid-case designers to test new chrono button designs, but for me I actually want a reliable chronograph for the simple reason that I like to time recipes very precisely, especially with eggs, pasta, pizza, etc. Some top chefs do the same, and my chrono of choice, in the kitchen, is actually the Rolex Daytona, even though it might be difficult to read off minutes sometimes--never contemplated an Offshore in this function, as the chrono module is, like people already said, unreliable and difficult to service, and the watch is too chunky to imagine not getting damaged against a stove edge, etc. On unreliability of AP chronos: The fact that AP still uses this same DD chrono module piggyback on their in-house calibers speaks volumes about their inability to innovate (because of disagreements in the watch movement design department) and also their lack of interest in Offshore development (they seem more interested nowadays in bringing out an entirely new case design). Gens still have the same chrono module (albeit a little more decorated) as all of our LWO283-based toys, and when AP finally (when? when?) launches their in-house integral chrono, with reduced case thickness (12mm anyone?), my guess is that the old DD-based Offshores will collapse in price overnight.
2. On cost of Offshore Frankens: whoever wants to make a Franken will make one even though prices have tripled in my time. I always thought gen parts would go up in price, and buying-and-holding special dials, hands etc. has proven to be a nice investment strategy with a nice ROI for some. For those of you with multiple Offshore Frankens, you might be advised to just buy a second-hand genuine Offshore for $10k - $12k and swap dials/tachys on that one genuine base when you get bored of the dial/tachy you have on it. Of course, this will not apply to Offshores with different cases, but for the classic plain models with SS case, it might be more cost effective than building 5 or 6 different Frankens. Plus you get all of the advantages of gen mid-case/crystal/hands/pushers/movement-holder/DW cut-out/machining/cyclops/DW, etc. that are hard for many to get right.
3. On the "many little things" that go into a ROO Franken. It is not just the genuine parts (the more the better, no doubt), but all of the machining, nuts/bolts/screws/washers/aftermarket-parts (as difficult to accumulate as gen parts), and the patience (very important) and skill of the assembler who puts it together that will eventually make it magic. Just something as simple on a Franken as a correct pusher action, or a correct date wheel cut-out is something that might take many different parts from many different sources. You guys would laugh at how many "little parts" go into a build, as these general remain hidden from view, but here is a rough sample of some pieces that go into the pusher alone, along with some movement holders, dial base plates, and about 9 containers of other little parts for other things. Because many times these little parts need additional modification dependent on the individual Franken characteristics means that assembly is not a monolithic just-screw-it-together operation, but more an art, requiring a lot of previous experience and understanding of the system as a whole.
4. 5. 6. 7. There are many other comments I would like to make on some of the things that have been said, but not much time for it, I am afraid.. so, over and out, for now.
Here aforementioned picture of the "little things":
Jurgenk
I'm Pretty Popular
- 28/5/07
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Some really nice dialogue and also some really nice builds in this thread lately. Just my two cents on a few issues, coming back from hiatus.
1. I would agree that chronos are a nice decorative addition, allowing watch manufacturers to test high-contrast color combinations in the interplay between sub-dials and main dial (unlike monochromatic time/date dials), and also allow mid-case designers to test new chrono button designs, but for me I actually want a reliable chronograph for the simple reason that I like to time recipes very precisely, especially with eggs, pasta, pizza, etc. Some top chefs do the same, and my chrono of choice, in the kitchen, is actually the Rolex Daytona, even though it might be difficult to read off minutes sometimes--never contemplated an Offshore in this function, as the chrono module is, like people already said, unreliable and difficult to service, and the watch is too chunky to imagine not getting damaged against a stove edge, etc. On unreliability of AP chronos: The fact that AP still uses this same DD chrono module piggyback on their in-house calibers speaks volumes about their inability to innovate (because of disagreements in the watch movement design department) and also their lack of interest in Offshore development (they seem more interested nowadays in bringing out an entirely new case design). Gens still have the same chrono module (albeit a little more decorated) as all of our LWO283-based toys, and when AP finally (when? when?) launches their in-house integral chrono, with reduced case thickness (12mm anyone?), my guess is that the old DD-based Offshores will collapse in price overnight.
2. On cost of Offshore Frankens: whoever wants to make a Franken will make one even though prices have tripled in my time. I always thought gen parts would go up in price, and buying-and-holding special dials, hands etc. has proven to be a nice investment strategy with a nice ROI for some. For those of you with multiple Offshore Frankens, you might be advised to just buy a second-hand genuine Offshore for $10k - $12k and swap dials/tachys on that one genuine base when you get bored of the dial/tachy you have on it. Of course, this will not apply to Offshores with different cases, but for the classic plain models with SS case, it might be more cost effective than building 5 or 6 different Frankens. Plus you get all of the advantages of gen mid-case/crystal/hands/pushers/movement-holder/DW cut-out/machining/cyclops/DW, etc. that are hard for many to get right.
3. On the "many little things" that go into a ROO Franken. It is not just the genuine parts (the more the better, no doubt), but all of the machining, nuts/bolts/screws/washers/aftermarket-parts (as difficult to accumulate as gen parts), and the patience (very important) and skill of the assembler who puts it together that will eventually make it magic. Just something as simple on a Franken as a correct pusher action, or a correct date wheel cut-out is something that might take many different parts from many different sources. You guys would laugh at how many "little parts" go into a build, as these general remain hidden from view, but here is a rough sample of some pieces that go into the pusher alone, along with some movement holders, dial base plates, and about 9 containers of other little parts for other things. Because many times these little parts need additional modification dependent on the individual Franken characteristics means that assembly is not a monolithic just-screw-it-together operation, but more an art, requiring a lot of previous experience and understanding of the system as a whole.
4. 5. 6. 7. There are many other comments I would like to make on some of the things that have been said, but not much time for it, I am afraid.. so, over and out, for now.
Here aforementioned picture of the "little things":
I lost count of the number of pearls in this posting. So many bits of hard earned wisdom from someone who has command of the artistry in this craft. I use my chronos exactly in that way for cooking and need reliability. Would love to see a thin in-house chrono movement from AP. And dial/bezel swapping is something many AP owners do with success. Every time I get a new gen watch I ask myself, how could anyone get tired of looking at that face? But no matter how pretty, change is always nice and challenging. Such is our nature.
d3xophen
Renowned Member
- 15/9/18
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I am interested in this model. JF navy v2.
If I buyed this, which mod do I need to get more gen Iike.
And they said they update cyclops and dw in this v2 to gen like. Do I still need to mod?
And can this be thin the case?
https://puretime.io/watch-brands/au...rap-a3126-w-cyclops-v2-free-rubber-strap.html
If I buyed this, which mod do I need to get more gen Iike.
And they said they update cyclops and dw in this v2 to gen like. Do I still need to mod?
And can this be thin the case?
https://puretime.io/watch-brands/au...rap-a3126-w-cyclops-v2-free-rubber-strap.html
- 3/6/14
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Heck, 75 Pages about what? FRANKENS. If you want to mod your rep, go and find the corresponding thread.
No one will spoon feed you here (and if anyone does, infraction *coughcough*
)
Havitetty
Active Member
- 21/8/17
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Has anyone managed to figure out how to install gen pushers so they dont sit so deep? I read through all the pages here and didn't see anything mentioned. From what I read on Mikey's AP frankening guide:
"The gen crown does work on a rep crown tube, at least when I tried, hehe. The problem with the gen pushers is that when installed they sit a bit too deep vs the rep. If they sit too deep it's not 1:1 as per gen, with the reps it's much closer imo."
I hope that one of you vets may be able to shed some light this. Thank you!
- 7/8/16
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One of the most valuable treads around with amazing pieces of wisdom. I am planning to make a franken build ROO most probably 25721 or if I am lucky to find old style case like End Of Days but stainless steel will go probably for 25770. I have found way to source some of the parts I need. My question is regarding 25721 bracelet. JF or NOOB case is better for old style gen bracelet, or in both cases will require modification? Or maybe new style gen bracelet will fit better without any mods required?
I’m looking for a stock JF 42mm Steel AP bezel (with or without crystal). My current Franken one is totally beat up. Would appreciate if anyone have a spare lying around and don’t need it can sell it to me.
Or or if anyone looking to sell their Franken can hit me up
Or or if anyone looking to sell their Franken can hit me up
- 3/6/14
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I’m looking for a stock JF 42mm Steel AP bezel (with or without crystal). My current Franken one is totally beat up. Would appreciate if anyone have a spare lying around and don’t need it can sell it to me.
Or or if anyone looking to sell their Franken can hit me up
Post a wtb
No, I canceled the sale because the description of the dealer was wrong. I thought about taking the dial, but building a correct Franken will be very difficult. At Ebay.com is currently a dial of the Platinum online again.
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- 27/7/15
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- 27/7/15
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I have a very old school MBW-case AP ROO franken. I'd like to get rid of the case as it has a many flaws compared to a JF case. I've already lost three pusher covers, I cannot fit a good looking bracelet, the tachymeter has about a 1mm difference from where it should sit, and I also need to change a couple of components on the inside to gen parts. All of that makes me think a "transfer" of the components to a JF case will solve the majority of these problems.
The original franken is a "white themes" ROO. A dial like that gives me two choices:
1) Convert it to a JF "White Themes" ROO
2) Convert it to a JF "Rubberclad White Themes" ROO
I really like both solutions: The white themes has a very clean and classy design, but I love the colour contrast and sportiness of a White Themes Rubberclad.
What would you personally and subjectively do if you were me? In case I want to trade it for another franken after a couple of years (or months), which one of these builds would appeal more to people and therefore have a highest trade value?
The original franken is a "white themes" ROO. A dial like that gives me two choices:
1) Convert it to a JF "White Themes" ROO
2) Convert it to a JF "Rubberclad White Themes" ROO
I really like both solutions: The white themes has a very clean and classy design, but I love the colour contrast and sportiness of a White Themes Rubberclad.
What would you personally and subjectively do if you were me? In case I want to trade it for another franken after a couple of years (or months), which one of these builds would appeal more to people and therefore have a highest trade value?