johnlogan
I have a 288k from H-factory which is supposedly a super rep from the past, but I have to say from your pics, the overall quality and "well-made-Ness" factor seem much better on this VSF offering.
I agree this 88 look great.
BTW, I tried capecodding brushed metal before and while it didn't ruin the metal, it didn't quite..... get polished lol. I am usually very bad at these things so maybe it will work better for you.
BTW, I tried capecodding brushed metal before and while it didn't ruin the metal, it didn't quite..... get polished lol. I am usually very bad at these things so maybe it will work better for you.
There are guides on this in the repair section. In short, it will not be possible to recreate the factory polish by hand. But you can make it "shiny".
Of course, this depends on many factors, and most importantly, the surface area.
Well usually polishing with cape cod is reserved for buffing out scratches on polished surfaces. Although one can think of a brushed surface as having many uniformly done scratches, it would be very difficult if not impossible to replicate factory polishing with only cape cod and some elbow grease.
Yes, of course, it depends, first of all, on the depth and thickness of the satin "scratches". Also, of course, capecode seems to be not the best way, not invented for this, but nevertheless, it is quite common material. I polished the fully satinized case with a goi-paste baby cloth, but the result was mediocre. The watch was polished, but a lot of effort was spent and the polishing was little cloudy.
However, I am sure that, as I said, in the corresponding section there is clearly enough more complete topics for those wishing to try, but I would call this situation a choice between good satin finish and bad polish, in which of two evils, I would choose the former.
The topic of second sub-dials and their concentric circles is well covered in ALE PAM GUIDE.