-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
Vsf 2018 seamaster diver 300m
- Thread starter GENneral
- Start date
- 4/3/20
- 274
- 171
- 43
He said he got it M2M end of August, not from a TD. The previous owner could’ve bought it ‘long ago’.
I think the previous owner said something about ordering it in April but I'm not entirely sure, depends on what you define as long ago
He just told me he barely ever wore it and it didn't have signs of wear. Whatever version it is I'm happy with the way it looks
I think the previous owner said something about ordering it in April but I'm not entirely sure, depends on what you define as long ago
He just told me he barely ever wore it and it didn't have signs of wear. Whatever version it is I'm happy with the way it looks
Ok, well in April 2020 V1 were long gone too. If you or someone else is unsure of V1 or V2 and anyone cares, post some pics of the bracelet. That is the biggest tell. Some of us can tell at a glance. We will let you know
You realise he's talking about the ceramic Seamaster right? ie no bracelet. And he probably get a v1 of the ceramic because of the aforementioned nato.
Also, who cares what version it is.
Arg...
Of course, why wouldn't I?
It might help if someone (not you Sonofalich) would post in the correct thread. Crazy me... there are 253 1/2 pages in this thread dedicated to the 2018 smp & 1/2 of one page where someone is lost...
My bad, sorry
Probably another silly question... I have seen a few reps waterproofed. Has anyone been successful with the seamaster?
There are a ton of posts about this topic and I guess there is good reason. 10 yrs ago almost all reps leaked and if you even went outside in the humidity in the summertime they would fog up and in about a month or two the movement would freeze up from all the rust and corrosion. For this reason everyone says "get it tested" Now I am not going to sit here and tell you not to get it tested, but I will say that rep makers have gotten a lot better at making both movements and making watches that don't leak. I have tested a lot of rep Dive watches in the past 5 yrs and it is pretty rare that I get one to leak. It can happen, but it is certainly the exception, rather than a common thing. I would still suggest to get it tested as it is only a few dollars and it will save a lot of trouble & money if you happen to get unlucky enough to get one from the factory that leaks.
There is another option and that is to make one yourself. It is cheap and is a fun little project..........
Here is a link to a thread where one member shows how to make a waterproof tester out of a nalgene bottle: https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/modification-repairs/28489-build-a-pressure-tester-for-30-dollars
I snooped around and improved the idea a lot, IMHO. Anyway, around page 8 on that thread I got involved and showed how you could do it for slightly more, but much more safely and to a much higher pressure. Here is my post: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...16#post4794116
btw
I have gone swimming, diving off a 3m platform, wakesurfing, wakeboarding, waterskiing, snorkeling, tubing etc with my 2018 smp and never gave it a second thought. I think the likelihood of something else happening to it (like a springbar failing) is probably 100x more likely than it leaking.
Last edited:
That's some good insight ! thank you
Once I get my smp I will definitely have it tested. Is it worth taking the movement out before testing it just in case? Not sure what the best practice is with this
You are welcomeThat's some good insight ! thank you
It is a good idea a & one that I think is worthwhile.
This is another thing that you see people post about. I can't for the life of me think of a good reason to take the movement out. Well, actually I do realize that people are thinking you save the movement from water if it leaks in the test, but this is completely flawed thinking. If you think about how the test works everything about it is designed to leave the movement in there and NEVER get water inside the case no matter what. There really should be no way to get water inside of the watch even if it leaks a lot. You pressurize the cylinder with the watch in there, but not submerged. One of two things is going to happen #1 it doesn't leak and therefore by definition no water gets inside or #2 it leaks, but you haven't submerged the watch yet. The only thing getting inside the case is air (now at a higher pressure) now you leave the watch and chamber sit for a while, 30 minutes, an hour whatever. The idea here is if it does leak after some time the pressure inside the watch case and the pressure tank will equalize at say 5 ATM. Now when you dump the pressure out of the pressure chamber quickly there is still the higher pressure (5 ATM) inside the watch case, but the pressure chamber is at say 2 ATM. At this time if the watch happens to be leaking since the pressure inside of the watch case is significantly higher than the pressure in the pressure chamber that higher pressure is going to try and escape and that is why you are going to see bubbles leaking out rapidly from where ever the watch case or stem or where ever it is leaking from. Water should never enter the case, period. End of story...
Now if you take the movement out all you are going to do is find out if it is leaking or not with the movement out. What happens if you take the movement out and test it and everything is all good but when you open up the case to put the movement back in some sort of contamination happens. A piece of hair or what ever gets in there and causes a leak, or what about if you happen to pinch an o-ring or worse yet, what if an o-ring breaks upon you screwing the case back on. You just created a leak that you are never going to know about until your watch fogs up or stops working etc.
My very first job was working at a factory where we manufactured valves and tested them all the time. I have tested literally thousands of valves in a very similar way to this and you just never know when one is going to leak and sometimes all it takes just a little piece of lint or hair or a kinked o-ring to make it leak like crazy. No way I would ever think taking the movement out is a good idea. It just introduces way too many potential problems when you put it back in.
I know others may not agree on this one, but that is my 2¢
Last edited:
Hi all,
Someone asked me yesterday about my feedback regarding yellowish lumes on my VSF seamaster diver 300m V2, so I thought I'd post it here so everyone can benefit from it.
Most of the time (60%) the markers are a bit yellowish. 40% it looks almost like the GEN but never crisp white like the GEN.
It is my only complain with beautiful watch.
A few pictures are better then a thousand words...
Someone asked me yesterday about my feedback regarding yellowish lumes on my VSF seamaster diver 300m V2, so I thought I'd post it here so everyone can benefit from it.
Most of the time (60%) the markers are a bit yellowish. 40% it looks almost like the GEN but never crisp white like the GEN.
It is my only complain with beautiful watch.
A few pictures are better then a thousand words...
- 7/7/19
- 883
- 593
- 93
naturally I’d say you’re right.
BUT in this case, it’s not necessary any more. everyone knows that this rep lume is freakn YELLOW, there’s no way around that. people need to get this into their head and stop making excuses that come down to light or some other sh#t.
if you’re okay with that p#ss yellowish lume, buy it be happy.
if not, don’t pretend it’s white because it’s not and simply buy something else.
also gen. Depends on lighting, but yes, the batch before the current batch is definitely closer to piss than snow
- 26/12/13
- 4,613
- 3,075
- 113
The first batches of the V2 had great lume, the latest ones are absolutely horrible. VSF has no respect for their customers or they're plain stupid. They can do lume on their new sub, can't they? Why can't they do it on the Seamaster range?
As I said, my unit has great lume and it's still not like gen, no matter the lighting conditions. Gen is as white as it gets, the lume is EXACTLY the same as engravings on the bezel. I've handled the gen multiple times, I know.
My VSF:
As I said, my unit has great lume and it's still not like gen, no matter the lighting conditions. Gen is as white as it gets, the lume is EXACTLY the same as engravings on the bezel. I've handled the gen multiple times, I know.
My VSF:
- 26/12/13
- 4,613
- 3,075
- 113
Sure
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...-vs3135-submariner-comparison-against-the-gen
No yellow lume there!
Mille M
I'm Pretty Popular
- 24/7/18
- 1,254
- 2,757
- 113
Sure
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...-vs3135-submariner-comparison-against-the-gen
No yellow lume there!
WOW, thanks mate
Love VSF Omegas. Let's see what they can do with Rolex
Cheers
- 26/12/13
- 4,613
- 3,075
- 113
They can make the DW fat, that's what they can do. But the lume is white, so...