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VSF 126610 Submariner with VS3235 Latest Movement 72 Hours Power Reserve

WatchSmith.US

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Folks, I have one of these on the way and am feeling a little nervy about movement reliability reading some of the later posts. Are folks getting these serviced on day 1 or is it a case of only those with ones that have developed issues are posting about them?

I have two and I examined the balance jewels which are properly lubricated. I can’t speak for the rest of the movement but I assume it’s properly lubricated as well. Obviously getting it serviced is always a good idea but personally I would use it and enjoy it. As for reliability it is a solid movement and like any other watch, if it breaks you fix it.
 
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Liscon

Getting To Know The Place
21/11/19
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Are there any members in the forum who live in the UK and could service this movement. I think taking it to your local watchmaker could be a little tricky ????
 

Richarris

Getting To Know The Place
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13/2/21
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I found reference to one in Stockport via a forum post who seems mod friendly and that's just round corner from me. John Vass Watchmaker. Might help?
 

Debellum

Love is a Litany
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29/6/12
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Hi Bad Boys
Before opening a Thread on the Sale Forum section , I wanted to ask you if anyone owns a VSF 116613. I'm very very interested.
I would exchange mine for the Rolesor version at same price , without calculating the expenses I had with my watchmaker.
Please only PM , then just in case , I'll open a 3D on the forum reserved 4 the buyer.
I don't sell it because it has flaws or anything else , but only because I prefer the Rolesor version.
My trusted watchmaker will confirm everything.
Let me know via PM. You will have a perfect VSF 126610LN..... :)

Regard

Junio M.
 
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rcom440

Respected Member
10/11/12
5,840
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USA
Hi Bad Boys
Before opening a Thread on the Sale Forum section , I wanted to ask you if anyone owns a VSF 116613. I'm very very interested.
I would exchange mine for the Rolesor version at same price , without calculating the expenses I had with my watchmaker.
Please only PM , then just in case , I'll open a 3D on the forum reserved 4 the buyer.
I don't sell it because it has flaws or anything else , but only because I prefer the Rolesor version.
My trusted watchmaker will confirm everything.
Let me know via PM. You will have a perfect VSF 126610LN..... :)

Regard

Junio M.

You should post it in want to buy thread of Trade section.
 

recan1ze

Active Member
9/1/17
270
57
28
Germany
Hi Bad Boys
Before opening a Thread on the Sale Forum section , I wanted to ask you if anyone owns a VSF 116613. I'm very very interested.
I would exchange mine for the Rolesor version at same price , without calculating the expenses I had with my watchmaker.
Please only PM , then just in case , I'll open a 3D on the forum reserved 4 the buyer.
I don't sell it because it has flaws or anything else , but only because I prefer the Rolesor version.
My trusted watchmaker will confirm everything.
Let me know via PM. You will have a perfect VSF 126610LN..... :)

Regard

Junio M.


why u get a new one from a TD? :)
 

KJ2020

Time Traveler
Supporter
12/3/18
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Jayalvin777

I found out the cause of the winding issue on the VS3235 and it's not the yoke for sliding gear. While working on mine, the yoke quit engaging and I noticed a post was popping up through the train bridge nearby.

3235
ZTSgxK.jpg


This post contains the crown wheel and on the VS3235 (probably gen also) the post has a very thin washer built in on it that has a curved bend in it like a dial washer. It appears this washer is meant to push down on the post, driving it away from the underside of the train bridge. When it fails to do this, the crown wheel disengages from the intermediate crown wheel (right under the yoke for sliding gear) and this is what interrupts the manual winding capability.

3235
ZT0jQ1.jpg


3235
ZT0ZUv.jpg


The 3135 is designed differently. It has a separate winding bridge from the train bridge, and the crown wheel is screwed directly into the underside of the winding bridge. IDK why the 3235 crown wheel isn't fixed in height - I can see no reason for it not to be, the 3135 crown wheel is fixed in height with a solid spacer called the crown wheel core. They probably just copied the gen design but that rep washer is crazy thin and cheap - worthless and causing these winding issues.

3135
ZT0hsc.jpg


3135
ZT0KnI.jpg


As a proof of concept, I inserted a 27 guage wire "clip" (0.361mm) onto the 3235 crown wheel post under the thin curved washer and the issue is resolved. I needed to be able to wind the movement to work on it, so I'm leaving it in for now. I'll replace that clip with a similar height spacer of some kind, maybe a nylon or SS washer with a cutout to allow for placement around the post.

ZT0zfj.jpg


ZT0Hh4.jpg


Reps are so much fun to fix, ha.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, there is undoubtedly a reason for the crown wheel to be able to disengage from the intermediate crown wheel on the gen or it wouldn't have been made that way. Some kind of safety measure in the event of some other conditions. It wouldn't be to prevent over-winding I believe, or we all would have noticed the difference between winding a fully wound spring and not engaging the ratchet wheel at all. In any case, on the rep once that cheap washer starts to fail at its task there really isn't a better solution than to add a spacer and fix the crown wheel in place.
 
Last edited:

Spoons

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21/4/19
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I found out the cause of the winding issue on the VS3235 and it's not the yoke for sliding gear. While working on mine, the yoke quit engaging and I noticed a post was popping up through the train bridge nearby.

...

Reps are so much fun to fix, ha.

Great contribution as always, sir.
 
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Btadl1997

Active Member
MULTI ACCOUNT
12/2/18
204
182
43
Well guys, looks like VSF is having QC issues with there crystals (or maybe something else). I received mine today and the crystal is totally trashed with scratches and dust under crystal. https://imgur.com/a/KyJEd3X


Sent from my iPhone using RWI
 

Picasso74

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Jayalvin777

I found out the cause of the winding issue on the VS3235 and it's not the yoke for sliding gear. While working on mine, the yoke quit engaging and I noticed a post was popping up through the train bridge nearby.

3235
ZTSgxK.jpg


This post contains the crown wheel and on the VS3235 (probably gen also) the post has a very thin washer built in on it that has a curved bend in it like a dial washer. It appears this washer is meant to push down on the post, driving it away from the underside of the train bridge. When it fails to do this, the crown wheel disengages from the intermediate crown wheel (right under the yoke for sliding gear) and this is what interrupts the manual winding capability.

3235
ZT0jQ1.jpg


3235
ZT0ZUv.jpg


The 3135 is designed differently. It has a separate winding bridge from the train bridge, and the crown wheel is screwed directly into the underside of the winding bridge. IDK why the 3235 crown wheel isn't fixed in height - I can see no reason for it not to be, the 3135 crown wheel is fixed in height with a solid spacer called the crown wheel core. They probably just copied the gen design but that rep washer is crazy thin and cheap - worthless and causing these winding issues.

3135
ZT0hsc.jpg


3135
ZT0KnI.jpg


As a proof of concept, I inserted a 27 guage wire "clip" (0.361mm) onto the 3235 crown wheel post under the thin curved washer and the issue is resolved. I needed to be able to wind the movement to work on it, so I'm leaving it in for now. I'll replace that clip with a similar height spacer of some kind, maybe a nylon or SS washer with a cutout to allow for placement around the post.

ZT0zfj.jpg


ZT0Hh4.jpg


Reps are so much fun to fix, ha.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, there is undoubtedly a reason for the crown wheel to be able to disengage from the intermediate crown wheel on the gen or it wouldn't have been made that way. Some kind of safety measure in the event of some other conditions. It wouldn't be to prevent over-winding I believe, or we all would have noticed the difference between winding a fully wound spring and not engaging the ratchet wheel at all. In any case, on the rep once that cheap washer starts to fail at its task there really isn't a better solution than to add a spacer and fix the crown wheel in place.




chapeaux :_o_:
 

ShiroTenshi

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7/12/11
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Jayalvin777

I found out the cause of the winding issue on the VS3235 and it's not the yoke for sliding gear. While working on mine, the yoke quit engaging and I noticed a post was popping up through the train bridge nearby.

3235
ZTSgxK.jpg


This post contains the crown wheel and on the VS3235 (probably gen also) the post has a very thin washer built in on it that has a curved bend in it like a dial washer. It appears this washer is meant to push down on the post, driving it away from the underside of the train bridge. When it fails to do this, the crown wheel disengages from the intermediate crown wheel (right under the yoke for sliding gear) and this is what interrupts the manual winding capability.

3235
ZT0jQ1.jpg


3235
ZT0ZUv.jpg


The 3135 is designed differently. It has a separate winding bridge from the train bridge, and the crown wheel is screwed directly into the underside of the winding bridge. IDK why the 3235 crown wheel isn't fixed in height - I can see no reason for it not to be, the 3135 crown wheel is fixed in height with a solid spacer called the crown wheel core. They probably just copied the gen design but that rep washer is crazy thin and cheap - worthless and causing these winding issues.

3135
ZT0hsc.jpg


3135
ZT0KnI.jpg


As a proof of concept, I inserted a 27 guage wire "clip" (0.361mm) onto the 3235 crown wheel post under the thin curved washer and the issue is resolved. I needed to be able to wind the movement to work on it, so I'm leaving it in for now. I'll replace that clip with a similar height spacer of some kind, maybe a nylon or SS washer with a cutout to allow for placement around the post.

ZT0zfj.jpg


ZT0Hh4.jpg


Reps are so much fun to fix, ha.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, there is undoubtedly a reason for the crown wheel to be able to disengage from the intermediate crown wheel on the gen or it wouldn't have been made that way. Some kind of safety measure in the event of some other conditions. It wouldn't be to prevent over-winding I believe, or we all would have noticed the difference between winding a fully wound spring and not engaging the ratchet wheel at all. In any case, on the rep once that cheap washer starts to fail at its task there really isn't a better solution than to add a spacer and fix the crown wheel in place.

I was expecting something to go wrong with the 3234... so basically, stick to the 3135 for now if u want clone movement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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KJ2020

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3235
ZT0jQ1.jpg


Edit: Thinking about this some more, there is undoubtedly a reason for the crown wheel to be able to disengage from the intermediate crown wheel on the gen or it wouldn't have been made that way. Some kind of safety measure in the event of some other conditions. It wouldn't be to prevent over-winding I believe, or we all would have noticed the difference between winding a fully wound spring and not engaging the ratchet wheel at all. In any case, on the rep once that cheap washer starts to fail at its task there really isn't a better solution than to add a spacer and fix the crown wheel in place.

OK after analyzing this further, I see that when the crown is pulled out to position 2 for a date change, the crown wheel is pushed up as its lower post is raised by a knurl on the stem. This disengages the crown wheel from the intermediate crown wheel during a quickset date change and during time setting.

(Sorry first time working on this new movement and there's no manual) :(

ZTJlv2.jpg


So I'm going to have to find some kind of replacement curved spring washer for the cheap rep part. Or maybe a thinner spacer would work so the rep part doesn't have to provide for as much return travel distance to lower the crown wheel back down.

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...:1,prmr:1,cs:1
 
Last edited:

YellowFin

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My first thought as well. I’m sure there are plenty of duds around - the TD should filter them out before QC stage.

Got the same impression from the ~15 reps I bought last year. Some TDs just accept everything from the factories and sell it with low quality QC pics where you don't really see the issues. Not cool.
 
Last edited:

BiH855

Active Member
18/3/19
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Germany
So I'm going to have to find some kind of replacement curved spring washer for the cheap rep part. Or maybe a thinner spacer would work so the rep part doesn't have to provide for as much return travel distance to lower the crown wheel back down.

Love your posts a lot, thank you KJ !

Maybe, if there's enough clearance in Position 2, a very thin washer on the upper side of the curved spring washer could help to increase the preload of the spring?