1. MiyotaI guess this thread is perfect for my question;
What is the difference between APSF 15400 version 1, 2 and 3?
2. 3120 clone
3. Updates with the most important being the hands
1. MiyotaI guess this thread is perfect for my question;
What is the difference between APSF 15400 version 1, 2 and 3?
Just to be sure: this is a stock of 15703 roo diver with this band:
Definitely a fun and cool option to have being able to switch between SS and rubber bracelet/straps. Like having a brand new shiny watch…..Just to be sure: this is a stock of 15703 roo diver with this band:
Wann have the exact same setup
Thanks in advance
It’s a ZF diverJust to be sure: this is a stock of 15703 roo diver with this band:
Wann have the exact same setup
Thanks in advance
Would you be able to recommend any vendors for AP Royal Oak dials?Be aware because custom rep dials can imitate some (not all, ofc) characteristics of gen counterparts. I'm not an expert but I can advise you to inspect the sunburst, the color dynamics, the tapisserie pattern, the printing quality, the hour markers (eg. their shape and the width of their lume part). The dial color itself can sometimes be misleading due to the photography.
Having worked on all 3, and having a rough sample size of at least 30 each (and likely 100+ for the 324) I would rank them as follows:My question is on the reliability of super clone movements, specifically the AP 3120 sc, the AP 4302 sc and the PP 324 sc.
Let assign the Miyota 9015 a score of 10/10 for reliability. Where would the three super-clone stands just based on reliability (eg ignore the lack of instant date jump on the 3120sc) factor alone ?
I know there is no exact science nor comprehensive statistic available yet to assess the relative reliabilities of these sc movements and hence, I am comfortable just hearing your opinions, assumptions and let's put it this way, best guesses.
Thanks
Where would you rank the a2824 movement?Having worked on all 3, and having a rough sample size of at least 30 each (and likely 100+ for the 324) I would rank them as follows:
1. 4302 (9.5/10 after service)
2. 3120 (7.5/10 after service)
3. 324 (7/10 after service)
I am ranking them based on the quality of parts, robustness of design, and precision of alignment of parts in the movement.
Thanks Legend, that pretty much makes up my mind on the first serious rep I should be getting.Having worked on all 3, and having a rough sample size of at least 30 each (and likely 100+ for the 324) I would rank them as follows:
1. 4302 (9.5/10 after service)
2. 3120 (7.5/10 after service)
3. 324 (7/10 after service)
I am ranking them based on the quality of parts, robustness of design, and precision of alignment of parts in the movement.
IMHO the Asian movements can be made to be functionally as reliable as the Swiss ones. I said functionally because while it is undeniable that the Swiss movements have better parts, the Asian movements can be made to keep time and have reserves which are totally comparable with the Swiss movements.Thanks Legend, that pretty much makes up my mind on the first serious rep I should be getting.
The last one I had was a PAM63 acquired more than 20 years ago with a robust ETA movement that served me well all these years although the watch is in no way a good replica.
I think that you can try the TDs, M2M and post a “want to buy” and hope that something shows up. You can even buy a ready made franken through m2m if you’re lucky. It actually won’t matter what your plan is, the avenues to source a rubberclad watch remain the same don’t you agree? As in whether you buy one to wear it stock or to franken, it does not affect the places you look. If you’re looking to buy a ready made franken only the m2m channel is available. You can do a “want to buy” post looking for both actually, that would be most efficient.@legend where do you think is the best place to procure a ROO rubberclad for plans to franken with a white dial (black rubberclad), stainless steel?
Thanks