• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

The 34mm thread...the red-haired stepchild of the Oyster Perpetual family.

dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
Patron
Certified
29/5/23
1,695
2,783
113
USA
Finished the first of a half dozen or so 5500s I’m building. I have a stash of Gen cases, so I’m going to try to build every variation of the 5500 Explorer that was made…there’s at least 6 that I can find, so going to post photos for comparison.

This is a Gen case, crown, crystal and bezel, with a Raffles 5500 dial. The Raffles dial is actually sized for a 36mm case, so I sanded down the diameter until it fit.

AliX hands, 2824, and a random strap. Some light aging to match the dial and hands.
 
Last edited:
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: 369mafia and RDRoss

369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
Patron
Certified
7/7/15
3,473
6,101
113
Canada
Finished the first of a half dozen or so 5500s I’m building. I have a stash of Gen cases, so I’m going to try to build every variation of the 5500 Explorer that was made…there’s at least 6 that I can find, so going to post photos for comparison.

This is a Gen case, crown, crystal and bezel, with a Raffles 5500 dial. The Raffles dial is actually sized for a 36mm case, so I sanded down the diameter until it fit.

AliX hands, 2824, and a random strap. Some light aging to match the dial and hands.
Nice work. what is the dial seat on a 34mm gen case doesn't look like you had to sand down too much
I got bamboozled by raffles small rose ranger dial and didn't realize it was for 36mm until I got it home

I may have found my project for the weekend.
 

dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
Patron
Certified
29/5/23
1,695
2,783
113
USA
Nice work. what is the dial seat on a 34mm gen case doesn't look like you had to sand down too much
I got bamboozled by raffles small rose ranger dial and didn't realize it was for 36mm until I got it home

I may have found my project for the weekend.
I think the gen is 27.2mm. Raffles 34mm case is close. About 27mm, give or take.
 

dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
Patron
Certified
29/5/23
1,695
2,783
113
USA
Next 5500 build, a little different.

Gen case, crown, crystal and bezel, Yuki dial and hands, with a different aging technique...it's a little bit "crackled" and a little less "browned." I wanted “faded in humidity,” rather than “baked in the sun.”

I can't have them all looking the same, lol.




And for some reference, the two 5500 side by side: Raffles dial on the left, Yuki on the right:




Some close ups and a comparison with an unaltered Raffles 34mm case to give some idea what work the Raffles case needs:



 
Last edited:

1016_idiot_savant

Active Member
Supporter
Certified
3/2/23
471
1,371
93
Denmark
Anyone else notice the trend for women to wear oversize steel sports watches - Jennifer Connelly pulls it off with a whopping 36mm Explorer in Top Gun 😮

 
  • Like
Reactions: 369mafia

dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
Patron
Certified
29/5/23
1,695
2,783
113
USA
Thanks. I went to work with no hesitation.
Mounted it to my dremmwl and worked out well. More pics tomorrow
That's exactly how I did it. It's almost like that attachment is made for turning dials.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 369mafia

369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
Patron
Certified
7/7/15
3,473
6,101
113
Canada
i got the dial to fir but it was tight.

It’s definitely doable considering the dial was 28.5 mm and managed to get it in a 27.2mm dial seat. The best alternative for a small rose ranger on a budget


 

369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
Patron
Certified
7/7/15
3,473
6,101
113
Canada
KeVUQ3.jpeg


6429+7995
 

dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
Patron
Certified
29/5/23
1,695
2,783
113
USA
Adding my latest 34mm to the thread. A 6429 Commando.

Things I learned:

Seiko NH movements aren't the best choice for the 34mm cases. They're great movements, and can be made to work, but require removing the plastic ring from the movement and fabricating a new one. The issue is, they're too big with the plastic ring, but without it, they're not set solidly enough in the case to allow the crown to be pressed in to wind, once you pull it out to set the time. I 3D printed mine, but some have used zip ties. Regardless, for ease of assembly, ETA 2824 is probably the best choice. The movement was also a little tall for some crystals, as mine was rubbing on my hands. I set them deeper, but no luck, so I made a dial spacer to move the movement away from the glass a fraction of a millimeter.

ALIX makes a decent Jubilee bracelet in 19mm or 20mm for $5. It's not going to pass for gen under close scrutiny, but it offers a different look for a reasonable price. Eventually, I'll probably swap for an Oyster, leather strap, or NATO, but for now, I'm kind of enjoying it.

Raffles Commando hands have some QC growing pains, as one member here got a defective set, and mine came with a seconds hand that is way too short.

Caveats aside, on to the build:

*I used a gen Rolex 1500 case and bezel, because they're still relatively cheap if you do some searching.
*Raffles dial and hands that I aged with Tamiya weathering powder, after spraying the dial with a couple coats of matte acrylic.
*I lumed with a DIY mix of acrylic paint and raw luminous powder.
*NH38 movement with a DIY movement holder and dial spacer
*Clarks Tropic 13 crystal
*AliX 6mm Crown and Jubilee Bracelet, since I bought a few to experiment with and wanted to work one into a build to see how I liked it.


 
Last edited:

dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
Patron
Certified
29/5/23
1,695
2,783
113
USA
Newest build, still needs some tweaking, but wanted to see what it looks like together.

Gen 5500 case with a beat up crystal that I may or may not replace with a Clark's, a2824, gilt printed dial and weathered hands of unknown origin that I lumed. AliX crown and blue NATO that was a random grab from my box of straps.

Bad photo from dirty cell phone.


 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 369mafia and relax

mrwolf95

Do not accept unsolicited offers
30/9/22
4
1
3
EU
Hi,
I recently bought gen 1501 case without crown for good price and plan is to build franken with gen dial. I have spare 2824 movement and I have raffles movement ring that I modified to fit in case..
I'm missing crown, dial, hands, dwo.
I have few questions about build:
1. What crown do I need 5.3 or 6mm?(can somebody give me link for aliexpress one?)
2. Do I need dial spacer because of dwo?
3. Should I use raffles hands with taller posts or normal ones?
4. Any suggestions for gen spec spring bars?

Thank you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 369mafia