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The 34mm thread...the red-haired stepchild of the Oyster Perpetual family.

brahmabull

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Beautiful work guys. Some great artistry here.

unsubscribing as I have a feeling that this thread will enable me to make a purchase. I can envision it now. Someone will put a bug in my ear on how a new build would look like on my wrist for the new year. lol

amazing builds everyone.
 

dpd3672

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More reference material, Rolex Reference Numbers (Model Numbers) for various 34mm watches. Good idea to know what the finished product is supposed to be if you're buying an Ebay case set:

Rolex Air King reference numbers

  • 1400: Updated version with sapphire crystal and a new caliber 3000 movement.
  • 4365: Made in the 1940s. The first Rolex Air-King measured 34 millimeters.
  • 4925: The first Oyster watch to feature the iconic Air-King moniker on the dial.
  • 5502: Acrylic crystal. 1530 automatic movement.
  • 5520: Silver dial, automatic movement. Gold case.
  • 6500: Oyster Perpetual and chronometer rated. This Rolex reference was never branded an Air-King.
  • 14000M: Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Case in 34mm.
  • 14010M: Automatic 3130 movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown
  • 114234: Introduced in In 2007. The last model of the Air-king family (of the past generation since the model was revived in 2016). It features a white gold bezel and is the only Air-king with such element.
  • 114210: 34mm case, Silver Luminous with Arabic hour markers at 3, 6, 9. Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Waterproof.
  • 7784
  • 5700: Automatic movement, acrylic crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Blue, linen, or silver dial. WITH DATE
  • 5506: Automatic movement, acrylic crystal. Yellow gold plated.
  • 5501: Automatic 1520 movement. Acrylic crystal, waterproof. Screw-down crown. Oyster case. Introduced in 1958.
  • 5500: It is technically an Air-King, but Rolex also offered the ref. 5500 with an Explorer dial for about 10 years.
  • 1009
  • 5504: Stainless steel. The 5504 case was used as both the Air-King as well as the Explorer. Featuring a 1530 caliber movement.
  • 114200: Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. 3130 movement 34mm.
  • 6552: Built upon the 34mm Oyster Case.
  • 1002: The 1002 is often quoted as an Air-King model, but it never was – it was only an Oyster perpetual.
  • 1401: Stainless Steel. Water Resistant to 100 meters.
  • 5701: A less-common model than most Air-King references. WITH DATE

Rolex Explorer reference numbers
  • 5500: Essentially an Air-king with a classic gilt 3,6,9 Explorer dial. Available in two variants: Precision and Super Precision. Produced only from 1958 to 1967
  • 5501: Fluted gold bezel. ”Precision” on the dial and the text ”Explorer”.
  • 5504: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.
  • 5506: Dating back to mid-1950’s. The first use of the Rolex 1530 automatic movement. Referred to as Rolex dress Explorers. Dressier versos of the then 1016 Explorer. Available in two-tone or gold-filled cases.
  • 5700: Automatic movement, acrylic crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Blue, linen, or silver dial. With DATE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual (with and without Date) reference numbers
  • 10XX: Almost too many to list
  • 11XX: Almost too many to list
  • 15XX: Almost too many to list
  • 63XX: Almost too many to list
  • 64XX: Almost too many to list



 

dpd3672

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when I read something like this, I am happy I got into vintage Rolex.
There is no way in hell that the general public will be able to spot my watch...and even an expert would need to get it in hand.

and even if he gets it in hand, I am guessing many gens of that day got repaired with "whatever available right now" 😂
Yeah, no idea what they'd make of today's vintage watches, that were repaired by authorized service centers with OEM parts, but the wrong parts for the model.
Hands, especially, but I assume a lot of watches over the years got everything from gaskets and o-rings to gears and mechanical parts that weren't from the factory...It's a dying art, but I remember the watch shop where I grew up had a lathe, where the owner used to fabricate gears as he needed them.
 
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369mafia

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when I read something like this, I am happy I got into vintage Rolex.
There is no way in hell that the general public will be able to spot my watch...and even an expert would need to get it in hand.

and even if he gets it in hand, I am guessing many gens of that day got repaired with "whatever available right now" 😂
yes and for that same reason, is what makes buying Gen vintage a mind field. cause there is just soo much variation
 

369mafia

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Finished yesterday.
Gen case set, bracelet
Gs glass
Seagull 2824
Yuki dial, hands

Shes a beauty and fits you well. Nice work. Why are we only learning about your project now.? We share our builds here, sharing is careing!! Can you confirm the crystal part number for us. We are sorta out on a limp for 34mm domed crystals.
 

dpd3672

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yes and for that same reason, is what makes buying Gen vintage a mind field. cause there is just soo much variation
Yep, fear of being ripped off is what brought me here, originally...but with vintage watches, it's even worse, since there's a lot of sellers in good faith that have watches with severely diminished value due to parts replacement over the years.

"Grandpa's 5517" might be worth a small fortune, if original.

Grandpa's 5517 that a local watch shop "restored" from a 5513 with an aftermarket dial, bezel, hands, and bracelet might still be worth a substantial amount, but probably 1/10 as much.

I see more "Explorer 5500" on Ebay than Rolex probably ever produced, lol. Because an Air King + a "restored 5500 dial" is a $2000 investment that yields a $20000 return.
 

esom

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Shes a beauty and fits you well. Nice work. Why are we only learning about your project now.? We share our builds here, sharing is careing!! Can you confirm the crystal part number for us. We are sorta out on a limp for 34mm domed crystals.
It is "GS PA459-37" corresponding to T11
 

dpd3672

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So are the Raffels cases designed for a 29.2mm or 29.4mm crystal?

Or are the differences so close it doesn't really matter?

I ordered T12 and T13 from Clark's to see which I liked better, but I have to say, that 5500 with a T11 looks lovely...
 
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369mafia

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Lil update on my Franken 6482
Received a gen brevet 5.3mm crown this week and tried it on my raffles case and it threaded on! A pleasant surprise indeed.

KA83dK.jpeg

KA8Hxv.jpeg

KA8hW1.jpeg


And on that note, this project is complete (if a project watch is every complete) but I this this one is!!

Pleased with the results.
 
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Singapore9

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Missed this thread the the first time around! Looks like some great work! Still fancy a GEN 5500 with a REP Explorer dial and hands!
 

Gaspacho

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Hi guys, who makes the best bracelet for a 1500 case, I'm think about making an automatic commando?