The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[lg.visio]

I would use the crystal that came with the case, but I'm pretty sure you can't remove the magnifier without damaging the surface. Right?



I tried the tea + sun method today. (thanks @TheLost ) It actually works quite well. I might paint over the lume a little. My attempts with heat haven't been very successful lately.

 

[automatico]

Who distributes these GS crystals?

Just about all supply houses have them or can get them. You see them on eBay too but sometimes the prices are too high.

To know whether it fits the case, you would need to know how thick the glass is. Cousins usually specifies the outer and inner diameters for the sternkreuz crystals, but I haven't really found a suitable one there either.

Iirc the GS catalogs had some OD and ID sizes posted for a few crystals but it has been a long time since I looked at a catalog.
Here is an example of some measurements for a few 'generic' crystals, maybe Sternkreuz:

Generic Crystals to Fit Rolex

This reflects some of the problems encountered with cases that are not oem spec.
Since I have a small lathe, I can enlarge the ID of a bezel or reduce the OD of a case neck a tiny bit, but other than that, I am in the same boat as everyone else. Believe me, I've had my share of this type of trouble.

 

[TheLost]

I tried the tea + sun method today. (thanks @TheLost ) It actually works quite well. I might paint over the lume a little. My attempts with heat haven't been very successful lately.

I've tried a ton of tricks to age Raffles lume (UV, coffee bake, coffee soak, etc. the standards). But in the end I keep going back to a modeling 'standard' (since I think of building these REP's as building watch 'models')...

Tamiya Weather Master (box C).. Its basically re-branded girls eyeshadow . The applicator has a spung end and a brush end.. I take the brush, rub it in the 'orange rust' powder, then 'dab' the brush over the lume. I then clean it up with a q-tip (removing the dust from the dial, and help spreading it around the lume).

yellow lume + orange rust = creamy tritium colored lume.



I'm sure there are better ways to do it.. but the lume still works, and like the tea-bake you just put the dial under running water and it all washes off

 

[369mafia]

 

[1016 lover]

Some new things coming

 

[369mafia]

Some new things coming

nice shape. Ill take two lol

 

[1016 lover]

nice shape. Ill take two lol

Fully machined case, Will take a little time to finish this one, i come from the workshop and have to do finishing, but look good , 2 years of drawing to finally have the correct shape

 

[1675lover]

add engravings and crown and I’ll take one!

 

[1675lover]

any plans to make it fit the NH38 movement?

 

[Karbon74]

add engravings

And i will take more than 2

 

[Dodgie]

I've tried a ton of tricks to age Raffles lume (UV, coffee bake, coffee soak, etc. the standards). But in the end I keep going back to a modeling 'standard' (since I think of building these REP's as building watch 'models')...

Tamiya Weather Master (box C).. Its basically re-branded girls eyeshadow . The applicator has a spung end and a brush end.. I take the brush, rub it in the 'orange rust' powder, then 'dab' the brush over the lume. I then clean it up with a q-tip (removing the dust from the dial, and help spreading it around the lume).

yellow lume + orange rust = creamy tritium colored lume.



I'm sure there are better ways to do it.. but the lume still works, and like the tea-bake you just put the dial under running water and it all washes off

Thanks for pointing this out again - this got me to finally buy the tamiya set and I have to say: Well, that was the most relaxed and easy aging I did so far and I really like the warmth of orange rust.


On Another note:
I wanted to built a 1016 for some time now and I stumbled across the Bundeswehr issued ones:





99 produced and deliverd in 1979 ~4mio Case Numbers.

The Dial should be a Matte Mark 4 Dial with the stretched crown?
Any idea where I could find such a dial?

For the engraving of the caseback I would give 9v Metal Etching a go.

 

[316lad]

I finally got it the colour I want. Assuming that it was bought and worn and a 50-50 mixture of night and Day with the tritium slowly burning yellow.

 

[316lad]

It's insanely beautiful - the marriage of the white of the text and the yellow/ orange of the Tritium Burn.

I'm ready to do a 14060M.

KARBON!!!!

 

[lg.visio]

Tamiya Weather Master (box C).. Its basically re-branded girls eyeshadow

So yeah … turns out I'm utterly useless with the Tamiya weathering set. (I bought the "A" version with 'sand', 'light sand' and 'mud')
My granddaughter actually asked if I was doing my makeup when she saw it. That should’ve been my first red flag. (and maybe the word 'mud' )

Tried your method step by step - no dice. The stuff just slides off the lume like it’s Teflon and ends up smearing across the dial like a toddler with finger paint.

First attempt: dry application out of the box. Total fail. Then came water, solvent, alcohol, benzine … basically everything short of holy water. Still nothing. The paint either turns to dust or decides to relocate itself everywhere except where it’s supposed to go.

In a fit of desperation, I gave up and grabbed regular old watercolor paint. It looks like crap under magnification, but at least it stays put (more or less). Like most things in life, it’s clearly one of those “practice makes perfect” situations … and I’m currently somewhere around level one of fifty.

Good thing these cheap raffles dials exist - no need to massacre a pricey Vietnam dial while I’m still finger-painting my way through this.





Maybe I should get the other makeup set after all - but I'm afraid it's pretty much the same in terms of consistency. The Lume plots on the dials are so plastic-like - the color doesn't stick to them very well. Or maybe I'm just using the wrong technique.

 

[lg.visio]

Some new things coming

Waiting for green

 

[Dodgie]

So yeah … turns out I'm utterly useless with the Tamiya weathering set. (I bought the "A" version with 'sand', 'light sand' and 'mud')
My granddaughter actually asked if I was doing my makeup when she saw it. That should’ve been my first red flag. (and maybe the word 'mud' )

Tried your method step by step - no dice. The stuff just slides off the lume like it’s Teflon and ends up smearing across the dial like a toddler with finger paint.

First attempt: dry application out of the box. Total fail. Then came water, solvent, alcohol, benzine … basically everything short of holy water. Still nothing. The paint either turns to dust or decides to relocate itself everywhere except where it’s supposed to go.

In a fit of desperation, I gave up and grabbed regular old watercolor paint. It looks like crap under magnification, but at least it stays put (more or less). Like most things in life, it’s clearly one of those “practice makes perfect” situations … and I’m currently somewhere around level one of fifty.

Good thing these cheap raffles dials exist - no need to massacre a pricey Vietnam dial while I’m still finger-painting my way through this.





Maybe I should get the other makeup set after all - but I'm afraid it's pretty much the same in terms of consistency. The Lume plots on the dials are so plastic-like - the color doesn't stick to them very well. Or maybe I'm just using the wrong technique.

I think you set yourself up for failure with the colors of the A set.

I got the C set and had to use very little of the red rust pigment, which stuck great to the raffles dial lume. The key might be the bigger difference in color and therefore less pigment needed.

It frankly looks like your sponge end of the Tamiya make up brush was subject to a filthy sand orgy... My sponge looked like I slightly grazed the red rust

Don't give up and give the c set a try - after all I payed 1/3 of a raffles dial for the set.

 

[369mafia]

So yeah … turns out I'm utterly useless with the Tamiya weathering set. (I bought the "A" version with 'sand', 'light sand' and 'mud')
My granddaughter actually asked if I was doing my makeup when she saw it. That should’ve been my first red flag. (and maybe the word 'mud' )

Tried your method step by step - no dice. The stuff just slides off the lume like it’s Teflon and ends up smearing across the dial like a toddler with finger paint.

First attempt: dry application out of the box. Total fail. Then came water, solvent, alcohol, benzine … basically everything short of holy water. Still nothing. The paint either turns to dust or decides to relocate itself everywhere except where it’s supposed to go.

In a fit of desperation, I gave up and grabbed regular old watercolor paint. It looks like crap under magnification, but at least it stays put (more or less). Like most things in life, it’s clearly one of those “practice makes perfect” situations … and I’m currently somewhere around level one of fifty.

Good thing these cheap raffles dials exist - no need to massacre a pricey Vietnam dial while I’m still finger-painting my way through this.





Maybe I should get the other makeup set after all - but I'm afraid it's pretty much the same in terms of consistency. The Lume plots on the dials are so plastic-like - the color doesn't stick to them very well. Or maybe I'm just using the wrong technique.

Its not your fault its the dials. His lume on some of his newer dials is like hardened resin of sorts. it has a smooth , glossy finish that the dry brush paints dont stick to.

I have the same weathering set and I use sand all the time. it gives a nice toasted almond tone. it works better on his explorer dials that have a slight texture to lune. but that commando dial and his 5513 dials have that glossy lume and you have to use a liquid paint. I use an ochre air brush paint on those dials , diluted and applied in light coats. usually 2 to achieve an even and desired tone.

You can try the weathering paint over top the paint you just applied as the plots now have a texture to them.

Keep it up

 

[Dodgie]

Its not your fault its the dials. His lume on some of his newer dials is like hardened resin of sorts. it has a smooth , glossy finish that the dry brush paints dont stick to.

I have the same weathering set and I use sand all the time. it gives a nice toasted almond tone. it works better on his explorer dials that have a slight texture to lune. but that commando dial and his 5513 dials have that glossy lume and you have to use a liquid paint. I use an ochre air brush paint on those dials , diluted and applied in light coats. usually 2 to achieve an even and desired tone.

You can try the weathering paint over top the paint you just applied as the plots now have a texture to them.

Keep it up

Thanks for sharing this insight - turns out I was just lucky as I only have older dials.

In my Quest to find the right Dial (matte Mark 4 with strechted crown) I realized that the Cartier stamped one from Ken would be close enough for now, but the Cartier stamp would have to go:



Does anyone have experience with removing parts of the lettering from a Raffles Dial without damaging the underlying dial or text right next to it?

 

[1675lover]

Thanks for sharing this insight - turns out I was just lucky as I only have older dials.

In my Quest to find the right Dial (matte Mark 4 with strechted crown) I realized that the Cartier stamped one from Ken would be close enough for now, but the Cartier stamp would have to go:



Does anyone have experience with removing parts of the lettering from a Raffles Dial without damaging the underlying dial or text right next to it?

This dial is bad imo. U are better off getting Yuki dial or viet dial
both have their flaws but definitely better than this

 

[316lad]

With regard to shiny lume - as 369 stated - they are of some sort of resin substance so won't accept paint. But they DO colour beutifully with felt-tips. I'm having great results with these.
And the great thing is it's reversible if you over-do it and the professional ones don't fade in sunlight, etc.