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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
nothing beats the elegance of form of the 5513 and 1016.
maybe the modern 36mm Explorer 1...but even that one, I don't get the same warmth. If you see what I mean.
Some russian watches have purity of function, but let's be honest, they are often brutish or gaudy looking
maybe the modern 36mm Explorer 1...but even that one, I don't get the same warmth. If you see what I mean.
Some russian watches have purity of function, but let's be honest, they are often brutish or gaudy looking
Completely agree on all counts, and while the Russian watches are generally fugly, they do have some interesting designs and innovative engineering solutions to problems.
While they no doubt copied a lot of what others were doing, they did solve some problems on their own, independent of any European influence, making for a really fascinating area to study.
The first watch actually worn in space...an industry started by none other than Joseph Stalin himself...inelegant over-engineering and odd solutions to things like waterproofing...wobbly crowns by design...it really is a cool rabbit hole to go down one day when you're looking for a distraction.
I've never liked the Russian watches, but an afternoon of research (and the Steve Zissou movie) forced me to add one to my collection, lol.
Well, I'm a week in to wearing and enjoying my 1016 build.
Still lots to do - that dial needs further work or swapping out entirely and the hands need more work but that'll keep for now.
I love it.
Next - 6358 build.
Cheers! and "Good Health" on a Friday night!
Still lots to do - that dial needs further work or swapping out entirely and the hands need more work but that'll keep for now.
I love it.
Next - 6358 build.
Cheers! and "Good Health" on a Friday night!
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That's right. I don't like modern Rolex either. These days the Explorer feels too fat and angular. It seems that the elegance was lost in the process of changing the tone to 'refined' in the 90s.
About Russian watches - I own a few, including vintage ones from the 60s. It's sturdy and easy to repair or custom. Excellent.
Reducing the bezel to 35.1mm makes a big difference to meAfter reducing the bezel circumference to around 35.1mm below:
There are gen bezel with a circumference of around 35.1mm, according to online search (https://marketplace.watchcharts.com...x-explorer-bezel-unused-genuine-polish-smooth)
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Has anyone tried the ruby dial? How is the quality? Do I need to cut feet to connect to the 2824?
Can't comment on the quality, but cutting the feet for most Vietnam dials is needed in order to attach it to the clone movement.
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Thanks. Btw Ruby seems to completely ignoring inquires.. I don't have any idea what he's doing
The modern Explorer is nice. The 36mm model is closer in spirit.
But Rolex has moved from functional watches to luxury pieces. Look at what happened to the Sub.
This is my Mk2 Ruby Dial I got from them a few years back. Its well made but delicate finishes compared to Raffles - raffles dials are nearly indestructible . Feet need to be clipped as they are for gen movements. @pullthat92
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Totally agree. I call it "mission drift," and the newer Rolex models just don't do it for me like the vintage ones.
It's like the difference in a vintage Jeep or Bronco, and a Lincoln Navigator or Cadillac Escalade. The former are purpose built tools that gained a huge following due to their excellent design, classic looks, and reliability under all conditions. Owning and driving one said things about who you were, how you lived your life, and how you spent your time. The latter are bloated, delicate, status symbols that aren't terribly luxurious OR primarily designed for their intended purpose, whose sole value are its connections to the former, and which celebrity is seen using it.
Or Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The original brand built a following of rebels, independent mavericks who did their own thing and didn't care what others thought about it. Owning one said, "I'm a free spirit, not afraid of danger, and going to do it my way." The current Harleys pretty much just say, "I'm a dentist/accountant/patent attorney," lol.
The vintage stuff actually looks better with signs of honest use...the latter losees value as soon as you put a little scratch on it, lol.
Mochacha dials are worth a look I picked up a used on one here and was really impressed with it, the colour of the dial, printing and the texture of lume was excellent IMO
I have no first hand experience with a Ruby dial so can’t make any comparisons, they are more or less exactly the same price IIRC (268USD shipped)
one thing I would say that it was very fragile with the paint chipping very easily during assembly although that’s probably more of a reflection of lack of skill in watch assembly than the dial
but something to keep in mind if you are just starting off in the hobby
I have no first hand experience with a Ruby dial so can’t make any comparisons, they are more or less exactly the same price IIRC (268USD shipped)
one thing I would say that it was very fragile with the paint chipping very easily during assembly although that’s probably more of a reflection of lack of skill in watch assembly than the dial
but something to keep in mind if you are just starting off in the hobbyI have worked with Mochacha dials also I find the gloss finish is more durable than their matte dial offerings. they chip pretty easyMochacha dials are worth a look I picked up a used on one here and was really impressed with it, the colour of the dial, printing and the texture of lume was excellent IMO
I have no first hand experience with a Ruby dial so can’t make any comparisons, they are more or less exactly the same price IIRC (268USD shipped)
one thing I would say that it was very fragile with the paint chipping very easily during assembly although that’s probably more of a reflection of lack of skill in watch assembly than the dial
It takes NH38 tooI had to cancel my order with Raffles
the explorer case with acrylic only takes 2824
oh well I will do a JFK 5513 to put in practice what I have learned and think about what i will do with the 2836
I like to think that we, on this thread and the 5513 thread, have inherited that spirit. Well thinking people shake the heads at us, while having a pang of unspoken envy
or I am just being delusional (that works too)
"That's right. I don't like modern Rolex either. These days the Explorer feels too fat and angular. It seems that the elegance was lost in the process of changing the tone to 'refined' in the 90s."
Agree 100%
Every genuine Rolex I have is pre 2000 (or very close), and all except three are acrylic crystal models.
They just look more like a 'Rolex' to me than the later 'sharp edged' models.
Almost all my replicas are pre 2000 also.
I usually wear a replica now because of today's 'No Parts For You!' Rolex policy. This is my silent protest and if anyone asks: 'Is it real/genuine, I say 'No, it's a replica' and give details if asked about it.
"It would be great to shave off Raffles' rehaut by just 1mm, has anyone tried that?"
Sanding it down from the top sounds like a good idea.
Here is the rabbit hole I went down about 25 years ago with a genuine Rolex 162xx DJ case in a roundabout effort to reduce the 'rehaut' height.
The hard way...
I wanted to modify the sapphire crystal 162XX case to accept a Rolex 3035 (about .4mm thicker than a 3135), so I mounted the case in a lathe and cut about .4mm down into the dial seat from the inside. In effect, this raised the dial/movement up into the case and centered the stem in the case tube. The 3035 powered DJs all had acrylic crystals except for a few solid gold models.
All went well. Sorta.
Except...
1...The second hand rubbed the sapphire crystal.
I shortened the ss hand tube and ss post a hair.
2...Then the ss hand was too close to the M hand.
I lowered the M and H hands a hair.
3...Then the M hand hit the applied markers.
4...The H hand was too close to the dial by then anyway.
I gave up on the applied marker dial and put a white with black Romans 'Buckley' dial in it with goldtone hands, 14K smooth bezel, gold crown, SS/14K Oyster bracelet, and sold the watch to a friend.
Bought it back a year or two later, put the 3035 with a new ss wheel, 'Buckley' dial, black hands, engine turned steel bezel, steel crown, and Jubilee with the original 160xx case and sold it again. It is long gone.
Still have the empty modified 162xx case. It might be another '1016' project...after the next 10 projects are finished.
A Rlx 15xx no date movement with a flat dial (no pie pans) will fit into a 162xx case or any case made for a 3135. A 15xx date movement (with date works or only the date works spacer) will fit into any case made for a Rlx cal. 3035.
Agree 100%
Every genuine Rolex I have is pre 2000 (or very close), and all except three are acrylic crystal models.
They just look more like a 'Rolex' to me than the later 'sharp edged' models.
Almost all my replicas are pre 2000 also.
I usually wear a replica now because of today's 'No Parts For You!' Rolex policy. This is my silent protest and if anyone asks: 'Is it real/genuine, I say 'No, it's a replica' and give details if asked about it.
"It would be great to shave off Raffles' rehaut by just 1mm, has anyone tried that?"
Sanding it down from the top sounds like a good idea.
Here is the rabbit hole I went down about 25 years ago with a genuine Rolex 162xx DJ case in a roundabout effort to reduce the 'rehaut' height.
The hard way...
I wanted to modify the sapphire crystal 162XX case to accept a Rolex 3035 (about .4mm thicker than a 3135), so I mounted the case in a lathe and cut about .4mm down into the dial seat from the inside. In effect, this raised the dial/movement up into the case and centered the stem in the case tube. The 3035 powered DJs all had acrylic crystals except for a few solid gold models.
All went well. Sorta.
Except...
1...The second hand rubbed the sapphire crystal.
I shortened the ss hand tube and ss post a hair.
2...Then the ss hand was too close to the M hand.
I lowered the M and H hands a hair.
3...Then the M hand hit the applied markers.
4...The H hand was too close to the dial by then anyway.
I gave up on the applied marker dial and put a white with black Romans 'Buckley' dial in it with goldtone hands, 14K smooth bezel, gold crown, SS/14K Oyster bracelet, and sold the watch to a friend.
Bought it back a year or two later, put the 3035 with a new ss wheel, 'Buckley' dial, black hands, engine turned steel bezel, steel crown, and Jubilee with the original 160xx case and sold it again. It is long gone.
Still have the empty modified 162xx case. It might be another '1016' project...after the next 10 projects are finished.
A Rlx 15xx no date movement with a flat dial (no pie pans) will fit into a 162xx case or any case made for a 3135. A 15xx date movement (with date works or only the date works spacer) will fit into any case made for a Rlx cal. 3035.
I love the vintage Rolex models and wouldn't dream of putting anything 'new' Rolex on.
The Rolex of old was a tool watch - worn for reliabilty and quiet under-stated style and robustness. You might have noticed that someone was wearing a Rolex - but only if you looked properly and had an interest.
The new Rolexes scream their presence from yards away and declare only that they were very expensive but without any of the sophistication of their older vintage ancestors.
The Rolex of old was a tool watch - worn for reliabilty and quiet under-stated style and robustness. You might have noticed that someone was wearing a Rolex - but only if you looked properly and had an interest.
The new Rolexes scream their presence from yards away and declare only that they were very expensive but without any of the sophistication of their older vintage ancestors.
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@automatico Woah, you sanded gen case to reduce rehaut? That's really tough bro.
I've considered that stem issue either. guess 1mm is too much, and sanding off about 0.3mm from the outside is the limit.
I've considered that stem issue either. guess 1mm is too much, and sanding off about 0.3mm from the outside is the limit.