Same same
I could probably try to replicate
I even bought an airbrush
But as I am lazy, I will just order one from @369mafia
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
Same same
I could probably try to replicate
I even bought an airbrush
But as I am lazy, I will just order one from @369mafia
Same same
I could probably try to replicate
I even bought an airbrush
But as I am lazy, I will just order one from @369mafia
Yep, I'm gonna have to go the same route soon.
i cant for the life of me align the feet. and the surface area of the replacement feet is too small for me to work on.
...the dial feet that I have , have large bases to adhere to.
I have had good luck with the 'platform' dial feet but had two problems to start with:
1...Superglue dries before the dial can be positioned correctly.
2...The 'platforms' on the dial feet sometimes make the dial to sit too high on the movement or allow the dial to rock side to side.
To solve problem #1...
Use slow setting superglue or epoxy so you can move the dial to position it.
Problem #2...
I made a dial foot mounting jig out of a large brass nut to plug the dial feet into that matches ETA 28xx (Miyota etc.) dial foot positions by marking and drilling holes for the dial feet in the nut. If the first set of holes is not close enough...do it over, there is plenty of room. The dial foot post needs to be a close fit in the mounting jig hole so there is very little wobble. Any flat piece of metal will work for the mounting jig, aluminum and brass are easy to work with.
Next, put a dial with the correct dial foot position for the movement in the holes and mark the 3 position on the mounting jig where it can be seen with a dial on the jig. I used a small spring loaded center punch.
With the dial foot mounting jig being done, the next problem shows up...the platforms on the dial feet are holding the dial away from the movement.
I finally decided to mill a small relief on the back side of the dials so the dial feet would mount down into the dial surface leaving only the dial foot sticking out. I used a small end mill cutter mounted in a Sherline milling machine to do this.
Some 'Do Nots'...
I am hearing: "I Do Not have a $@#% milling machine!"
You Do Not need a milling machine, all you need is a cheapo bench type drill press and an end mill bit from eBay etc. slightly larger than the OD of the platform on the dial foot.
Do Not run the cutter too fast and burn the dial paint.
Do Not cut too deep and cause the dial foot platform to be too far below the surface of the dial or the dial foot platform will not fit against the dial and may not make a good glue joint when mounted on the jig.
Do Not cut through the dial.
Two 'Always'...
Always take light, shallow cuts at the lowest drill press speed.
Always place the platform in the relief after every cut to see how high the platform is on the dial and STOP when they are even.
I mount dials to be cut for platforms with the front side padded with a piece of chamios and a dummy dial under it for support because it is very easy to bend a dial with cutter feed pressure.
After alittle bit LOT of practice, anyone can make dial foot conversions that fit every time.
...almost every time.
Typos are free...dials are not.
This whole process is probably cheaper than screwing up a couple $$ dials.
...the dial feet that I have , have large bases to adhere to.
I have had good luck with the 'platform' dial feet but had two problems to start with:
1...Superglue dries before the dial can be positioned correctly.
2...The 'platforms' on the dial feet sometimes make the dial to sit too high on the movement or allow the dial to rock side to side.
To solve problem #1...
Use slow setting superglue or epoxy so you can move the dial to position it.
Problem #2...
I made a dial foot mounting jig out of a large brass nut to plug the dial feet into that matches ETA 28xx (Miyota etc.) dial foot positions by marking and drilling holes for the dial feet in the nut. If the first set of holes is not close enough...do it over, there is plenty of room. The dial foot post needs to be a close fit in the mounting jig hole so there is very little wobble. Any flat piece of metal will work for the mounting jig, aluminum and brass are easy to work with.
Next, put a dial with the correct dial foot position for the movement in the holes and mark the 3 position on the mounting jig where it can be seen with a dial on the jig. I used a small spring loaded center punch.
With the dial foot mounting jig being done, the next problem shows up...the platforms on the dial feet are holding the dial away from the movement.
I finally decided to mill a small relief on the back side of the dials so the dial feet would mount down into the dial surface leaving only the dial foot sticking out. I used a small end mill cutter mounted in a Sherline milling machine to do this.
Some 'Do Nots'...
I am hearing: "I Do Not have a $@#% milling machine!"
You Do Not need a milling machine, all you need is a cheapo bench type drill press and an end mill bit from eBay etc. slightly larger than the OD of the platform on the dial foot.
Do Not run the cutter too fast and burn the dial paint.
Do Not cut too deep and cause the dial foot platform to be too far below the surface of the dial or the dial foot platform will not fit against the dial and may not make a good glue joint when mounted on the jig.
Do Not cut through the dial.
Two 'Always'...
Always take light, shallow cuts at the lowest drill press speed.
Always place the platform in the relief after every cut to see how high the platform is on the dial and STOP when they are even.
I mount dials to be cut for platforms with the front side padded with a piece of chamios and a dummy dial under it for support because it is very easy to bend a dial with cutter feed pressure.
After a
...almost every time.
Typos are free...dials are not.
This whole process is probably cheaper than screwing up a couple $$ dials.
offically calling this one "The Rwandan 1016 "
Just sharing photos of 2 1016s I’ve assembled, one for myself and the other one for my grandson. Both using Raffles parts with case mods ( reshape lugs and redrill for correct spring bars + slight ageing ) both running on Sellita sw200 nd movements.
Time. Age. Patina…
Finished another 1016 honeycomb dial, worked Hard on the case.
What do you think
What do you think
sharing an interesting new parts maker
forum.replica-watch.info
credit : @Pinion Minion
Does anyone know anything about these guys?
Popped up on my insta feed- wondering about the quality- especially the folded links.. https://www.oystersjubilee.com
forum.replica-watch.info
credit : @Pinion Minion
They arent giving them away , but they do offer folded oysters which is coolsharing an interesting new parts maker
Does anyone know anything about these guys?
Popped up on my insta feed- wondering about the quality- especially the folded links.. https://www.oystersjubilee.com
credit : @Pinion Minion
And folded jubilee
I always wanted one of those
Decisions decisions
I always wanted one of those
Decisions decisions
This is where I source my folded Jubilee from
Its just links, you need clasp and end links but that relatively easy to come by
Vintage SS Folded Jubilee Bracelet Segments Part For 6251H 20MM Bracelet | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage SS Folded Jubilee Bracelet Segments Part For 6251H 20MM Bracelet at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
Nice!This is where I source my folded Jubilee from
Its just links, you need clasp and end links but that relatively easy to come by
Vintage SS Folded Jubilee Bracelet Segments Part For 6251H 20MM Bracelet | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage SS Folded Jubilee Bracelet Segments Part For 6251H 20MM Bracelet at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.ca
- 9/8/10
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There was a thread specifically about them, which I bumped a few weeks ago... but no one seemed very interested there 
They are fiercely expensive! I've seen cheaper GEN bracelets, before, granted not in NOS condition!
They are fiercely expensive! I've seen cheaper GEN bracelets, before, granted not in NOS condition!
- 4/10/22
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