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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

automatico

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"On the first attempt, I collapsed the walls of the pinion and the hole just closed. Wasted.
On the second I used the copper wire to prevent the collapse. It worked and the second hands could be placed on the seconds post. I used a nail cutter to compress the pinion.
It's just that I am sure there is a better way. The pin vices I have are crappy. I guess I need collets? yes?"



Here is a tool you can use to hold and tighten standard 'WW' type precision 8mm watchmaker lathe collets:
Collet Holder take 8mm Collet for Watchmaker Lathe:
eBay item numbers: 403767109001 and 314064352409
Shop around and you might find one for less $$.

The proper size collet can be used to tighten sweep second hand tubes etc. I use them often in an old C&E Marshall Watch-Craft WW lathe but with this tool you can skip the lathe for holding/tightening small parts and tubes.

You might also run across low $$ deals on an old WW type lathes at flea markets and yard sales. The lathe does not need to work as long as the headstock and drawbar are Ok. Just put the collet in the headstock, put the SS tube in the collet, and very carefully tighten the drawbar just a hair and try the SS hand to see if it fits.

You might find some slightly rusty collets at a low $$ price...wire brush the threads, sand the tapered body, and use them.
The collets are available in sizes of about .1mm and up.


note...Dashto is now Dave's
"After 40+ years of watch repair and sales, Dashto is now closed. We thank our many customers and friends for years of memories. March 2018 - Our entire inventory has been sold to Dave at Dave's Watch Parts. http://www.daveswatchparts.com"



 
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oldtools

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Hayst

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I have a Sky Rocket!
It came from a WW2 bomber pilot. He said it was a cheap watch because bomber pilots didn't have a long life so there wasn't any reason to get an expensive watch.



Now I have to ask, since Rolex advertised that as having "unbreakable" glass and it is obviously broken...would the company stand by it's word?

No...I wouldn't change a thing about it, just wondering how good the company's word is.
 

Hayst

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Okay...community service report for those with a bivintage case set.

I am working on the case back threads on the 1016 case my daughter purchased with a view to taking the scratchiness out of them. I have found that JB bore bright polishes and is non embedding (works well) without changing tolerances.
As I was working the threads I remembered the odd thread sized (non raffles) case back I picked up on ebay...well bugger me if it didn't fit!

So if a replacement case back is required just put in the following (in pic) search words...about six bucks US.







 

Ladidadi

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This is good information. I decided to build an Oysterquartz, after finding out that the Tissot PRX case is very close in design. So I picked up the cheapest one I could find on AliX and ordered it, lol.

"Shitter" PRX:


Gen Oysterquartz:


Not sure where the dial will come from, but they do go cheap on Ebay occasionally. I'm gambling that a cyclops crystal is available that's drop in, otherwise I'd need to remove the cyclops from another crystal and glue it on. Hands look to be generic Rolex DJ hands, more or less.
how's this going so far, @dpd3672? I'd be willing to buy one from ya!
 
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dpd3672

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how's this going so far, @dpd3672? I'd be willing to buy one from ya!
I have the watches in hand, just trying to find a reasonably priced oysterquartz dial...or, a cheap DJ dial that I can remove "Oyster Perpetual" from and replace it with "Oysterquartz" on a waterslide decal.
So no breakthrough, but the project is in queue, waiting for the last piece to fall into place.
 

Ladidadi

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I have the watches in hand, just trying to find a reasonably priced oysterquartz dial...or, a cheap DJ dial that I can remove "Oyster Perpetual" from and replace it with "Oysterquartz" on a waterslide decal.
So no breakthrough, but the project is in queue, waiting for the last piece to fall into place.
beautiful. Let us know, I'm sure you'll have several people in line to pick these up from ya, if you're willing to make a few!
 
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WatchN3RD

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Maybe raffles cases are for whatever is the biggest of the movements most likely to be used, and the spacers are to make up the difference?

I’ve taken to using my own 3d printed spacers because they’re dirt cheap, relative to a store bought one.
That's the best way to go! If only you could PM me for a discussion on shoe-horning an NH 34 in a 1675 case. So many possibilities without custom seconds hands, keyless issues...
I love your mindset defaulting to your printed spacers!
 

WatchN3RD

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I have used zip ties too. They’re really good.!
You can shape them perfectly, cut them to length perfectly, reduce them with wet and dry, and then polish them until they absolutely fit snug.
I agree with all of this. But unfortunately, they are not firm enough for anything overly precise. I'm watching Sc-Fi movies to figure out exactly what I'm looking for. It's right on the border of silicone and sapphire, like cheap plastic in the winter.

Makes me wonder, maybe I should put the mini zip ties in the oven to dry them at low heat. Pretty sure they used to store tires underground in the desert for the bikes in the Olympics... just hard enough to be fast, yet soft enough to not explode like a dry-rotted balloon.

It's sounds so easy!
 
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Geonor

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Lathe! What would that be used for?
Brushing, polishing, chamfering, drilling, thinning cases and casebacks. I've turned down a tiny screwdriver to make a pin to secure a clasp to a bracelet, you can attach a flat sanding disc to it and lots of other things.
 
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