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Silencing the Miyota rotor on AP JF 15400

rj999

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hahaha! nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!! my wife will not be happy!

You really need to get your priorities right. Reps, then wife. OK:doh:
 
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rypho1

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No probs! Got another stainless steel/black 15400 on the way so let's hope it's just as smooth ;)
 

rypho1

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12ccc952c63e823885d9bea9220a3fee.jpg


Still going strong ;)

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christo14

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Great thread. Have been frustrated with rotor noise on my otherwise very nice 15400. I'll get the bits and give this a go!
 

slaughterer62

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The BP Nautiluses would benefit from a drop or two of Moebius in the rotor as well.
 

rypho1

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Great thread. Have been frustrated with rotor noise on my otherwise very nice 15400. I'll get the bits and give this a go!
Btw: quick heads up you can get the oil in small quantity from eBay, set you back about a tener from France mate.. pretty speedy delivery too ;)

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ScienceGuy

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Hey, great post OP - hopefully going to give this a try this weekend...

Does anyone know if this will work with Moebius 8000 oil?
 

Skydrag

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Great tutorial mate, this is very useful


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reppy

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I've seen someone suggest 9010 but then change and say d5 was correct because it needed thickness... or even car oil would be sufficient as it's only for the bearings only. I've also heard people say silicone grease as seiko recommend.. lots of options just picked the one I heard most about through searching and was d5.

The right oil would be 9010, that's right, but a tiny drop of D5 is also very good to silent up the rotor. D5 is thicker than 9010 and that's make the rotor slower.

I read in other places as well of people insisting that 9010 is the correct oil for rotors, but I did this on my 15400 with 9010 oil. It may or may not have made a slight difference. But I'm not totally satisfied that it made enough difference or was worth it. If I could go back and do it again, I would go with the D5 for the additional oil thickness to slow the rotor down.

Do you guys think I could just add a drop of d5 now, or would i have to remove the rotor and clean out the 9010?
 

poiuy

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Ok.... after taking and combining lots of helpful tips from various users on here (Thankyou) i have finally managed to shut that annoying rotor up on my jf 15400, so thought i would share what worked for me a complete newbie getting into this game and put it all in one place. Its not a complete guide but took pics on the important bits so hopefully anyone can do it..but remember i took the risk on MY OWN watch so follow the next steps at your own risk and any pros out there let me know if anything needs updating : Lets get started

First off....... the tools and what i used:

20160805_195812.jpg



  • Moebius watch oil (d5) for the bearings as i understand d5 has the right thickness
  • slotted screw driver set mine has the following widths in the set 0.80 mm, 1.00 mm, 1.20 mm, 1.40 mm, 1.60 mm
  • 1 tweezers / magnetic tip screw driver for those stupidly tiny screws once you get inside
  • Cocktail sticks/toothpick for holding rotor steady and using it to drop oil (more on that later)
  • small sponge to dab up any excess oil (novelty pink one not required) ;)
  • cling film to cover screws while loosening and tightening so you dont slip and scratch case or screws with screw driver ( it worked for me a newbie not 1 scratch!)

*ps: no need to take straps off the watch im waiting for custom ones to replace crappy rep leather ones so thats why mine are off*

on to the process:

1)I Pulled out the crown to hack the movement so its not ticking away while i work
2) unscrewed all the back screws using the clingfilm trick between the screwdriver and screws to stop scratching
3) once all screws are out used the cocktail stick to wedge and lift off back cover
4) undid the 2 screws either side of the purple jewel below to remove cover to the real Miyota rotor underneath the decorated cover (used a magnet tip as these screws are TINY! and used the cocktail stick to keep rotor still)

20160805_231905%25202.jpg


5) once removed there is a further 3 screws underneath which i believe once undone remove the rotor and you can access the ball bearings race.

As i couldn't face removing 3 more tiny screws and after hearing some people on here removed the rotor and were unable to put it back on i instead dipped the cocktail stick in a tiny bit of oil and dropped a small drop in this gap and hoped it would run into the bearing race see below

adc3c8f1-189c-4d96-9f50-4ccac4640f96.jpg



20160805_193713.jpg


6) after dropping a tiny bit of oil using 1 stick i used a dry cocktail stick to turn the rotor round at pace to spread the oil into the race lubing the bearings and a sponge to dab (kept applying very small amounts of oil until it was silent when i span the rotor.

20160805_193631.jpg


once silent enough when spun i put it all back together again magnet,clingfilm etc..... (dam those tiny screws good luck!!)
wiped the sweat from my forehead and pushed back in the crown... and guess what...

SILENCE!!!! rotor still turns and winds but no more wild free spinning...

Thats it! hope it helps whoever may need it and credit to the guys who mentioned most of this in other threads ive just put it all in together and added what worked for me...

cheers!!!!
:punk:

Thanks for the write up.....

Any chance of updating the pics/links?