SH3135 Essential Upgrades

[Usernametaken]

This makes me very tempted to try my junior watchmaking skills and buy a 3135 clone and upgrade it with gen parts..

That’s how it starts. Very addictive


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[Halien]

its any point in upgrading an SA3135 movement?

 

[Octobrist]

Just a question, the parts listed here are suitable for a SH3132? (except the date related ones, of course).

I want to replace the following:

3135-540 (x2) Reversing Wheels.
3135-280 Hour Wheel.
3135-205 Sliding Pinion Wheel / Clutch Wheel.

Not sure about the last one cause the 3132 hasn't date change crown position.

Thank you mates.

 

[peppercorn]

Oh that I understand. What I was trying to ask is I am buying an entire winding assembly but of the parts mentioned in this thread does the assembly eliminate the need to buy them separately. I know the reversing wheels but are there any others?

To address Date Issue:
3135-614 Date Jumper
3135-645 Date Corrector
3135-204 Winding Pinon
3135-625 Date Wheel Mounted
3135-623 Finger for Date

To make it more "reliable":
3135-540 (x2) Reversing Wheels
3135-600 Date Indicator Seating
3135-670 Intermediate Date Wheel
3135-205 Sliding Pinion Wheel / Clutch Wheel
3135-280 Hour Wheel

Hello, all.
I’ve been through this thread and have also tried to determine the answer to this question elsewhere to no avail.......




“I am buying an entire winding assembly but of the parts mentioned in this thread does the assembly eliminate the need to buy them separately”




If anyone knows which parts, if any, of the above are included in the winding assembly please do share.


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[aldumont]

hello,
I've just ordered a Sub ARF v3 SH3135 from Puretime. Do you know of any good wathcsmtih in Belgium, Luxembourg, France or Germany so that I get my movement fixed with the essential upgrades and some gen parts replacement?

Thks

 

[ssouthall6]

A better option these days is just buying a vr3135 and swapping the entire movement


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[heska]

Well if finish is better than on sh, vr3135 are still clone counterfeit movement made in dirty factories. Mine began to have a low power reserve after one month, then stop two month later (until revived and service by Johnny Depp )
On a long term value, i would rather service the SH rather than buying an unserviced VR

 

[ssouthall6]

Well if finish is better than on sh, vr3135 are still clone counterfeit movement made in dirty factories. Mine began to have a low power reserve after one month, then stop two month later (until revived and service by Johnny Depp )
On a long term value, i would rather service the SH rather than buying an unserviced VR

Finish is far superior on the vr3135. I've owned all of them, sh, sa, vr...the sh is a shit show.

The vr you have to make sure you get from the right source. Thrillofhunt sells genuine ones that are not riddled with the design flaws around the calendar mechanism the the sh has.

You don't have to trust me but you can ask JD yourself about the trouble I had with 2 sh3135's, and that was just the two that he looked at. Every single one has failed.


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[heska]

I got mine from Thrillofhunt, and it worked well when received so i don't blame him, but it failed faster than the SH it replaced. I also think VR is superior but it still a replica and still not a miracle solution. I would at least not ditch a working SH for a VR.

 

[jumpope]

Just my .02. I have an ARF 116710 to which I added a gen bezel with insert, dial, hands and date wheel. I ordered a VR 3185/6 when I bought the watch. It is a beautiful movement, aesthetically, and I even added a gen jumping hour hand module, autowind module and date wheel jumper spring. The VR, at full wind, amps at 250 - 260, dial high, and drops into the 230s and any other position. It has not been serviced.

I don't just want a watch to look good, I want it to be a good watch, also. I spent some money on the SH in the form of a gen jumping hour hand module (not the same as the 3185), intermediate date corrector wheel, gen date wheel seating plate, date jumper spring, gen date wheel and a gen autowind module. I serviced the movement and lubed it well. Now, I do believe that it is a good reliable movement that will run for a few years before needing service.

I chose to go with the SH for a few reasons. First of all, this maker is the only factory that went to the trouble to make a true 3186 clone. I think that that is neat since that is the movement that would be in the 116710. All the others are 3185 clones (which, arguably, has a more robust jumping hour hand mechanism). Second, it has adjusting lugs under the balance cock, which came over from the Yuki. One can adjust the balance to a "tee." Very nice...and this feature was not implemented in the VR. The running train seems very smooth and free of excessive friction or binding. The real "kicker" is that, at full wind, the SH amps at 290 to 315, dial high and doesn't drop below 275 in any other position. That's what I want to see in my watch.

The Kif-like shock springs and the fake blue parachrom-wannabe spring means little to me, as, at 74 years old, and having been a watch enthusiast longer than some members have been alive, I have never removed the back of a watch to show the movement to someone. Not even genuine brands that I now have and have had.

Like I said, "Just my .02."

 

[Stradivarius]

Well if finish is better than on sh, vr3135 are still clone counterfeit movement made in dirty factories. Mine began to have a low power reserve after one month, then stop two month later (until revived and service by Johnny Depp )
On a long term value, i would rather service the SH rather than buying an unserviced VR

my serviced SH died after just more than a year... guess I just had bad luck with this one.. just ordered a VR from Thrillofhunt, I will not bother get it serviced this time... let see how thing turn out...

 

[jumpope]

I have serviced and upgraded both and I believe that if you spring for the upgrade parts on the SH it is as good or better than the VR.

 

[theclaw25]

my serviced SH died after just more than a year... guess I just had bad luck with this one.. just ordered a VR from Thrillofhunt, I will not bother get it serviced this time... let see how thing turn out...

It was a bad luck because SH is pretty good movement. I used one of my SH3135 Sea dweller every day 365. Hit with wall, swimming, fishing and still rock solid. That rare. And the good part is never cleaned either.

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[gilrob]

I'm not entirely sure with regards perhaps an expert can chip in but I'm going to assume perhaps the list of making it 'reliable' minur the date indicator seating.

With that said, for the price of that list, I'd rather just stick an ETA in if there's no date requirement etc. I used to own an OP 114300 and rather than get the SH3132 serviced etc, I just got ado to stick an ETA in from a Tissot and only cost me £190.

I know this is an old thread, do you recall which model ETA movement was used for the swap and if any modifications were needed? I'm contemplating to have the SH3132 movement replaced in my JF OP 114300 so any information on a swap would be helpful and appreciated. Thank you.

 

[KJ2020]

I know this an old thread, do you recall which model ETA movement was used for the swap and if any modifications were needed? I'm contemplating to have the SH3132 movement replaced in my JF OP 114300 so any information on a swap would be helpful and appreciated. Thank you.

Between the two commonly used ETA clone reps, the 2824 stem height is the only one compatible with a 313x case. You can use pretty much any 2824 - a rep one, a more expensive clone like a Seagull, or a gen Selitta or ETA. If you want to maximize the experience, install the setting lever spring from an ETA 2801, or mod the one on the 2824. Also remove the calendar parts. This will eliminate the stem position 2 and slightly audible daily date changing noise, which may occur at any time since there is no need to set the hands at midnight. Most no date reps with ETA/DG movements come with both of these minor nuisances included.

 

[gilrob]

Between the two commonly used ETA clone reps, the 2824 stem height is the only one compatible with a 313x case. You can use pretty much any 2824 - a rep one, a more expensive clone like a Seagull, or a gen Selitta or ETA. If you want to maximize the experience, install the setting lever spring from an ETA 2801, or mod the one on the 2824. Also remove the calendar parts. This will eliminate the stem position 2 and slightly audible daily date changing noise, which may occur at any time since there is no need to set the hands at midnight. Most no date reps with ETA/DG movements come with both of these minor nuisances included.

Thank you for the helpful information. I'll pass it on to a modder who'll actually be doing the work. All the best.

 

[KJ2020]

Thank you for the helpful information. I'll pass it on to a modder who'll actually be doing the work. All the best.

Obviously the 3132 stem will have to be removed from the crown also, and the ETA stem refitted to the crown.