Your PR starts with the winding process. Do you have real reversing wheels? If so then I would look into the main spring. You can get the main spring with the barrel and spring pre-installed. Easy replacement.
Thank you Rob as always
Your PR starts with the winding process. Do you have real reversing wheels? If so then I would look into the main spring. You can get the main spring with the barrel and spring pre-installed. Easy replacement.
The JF or SH3135 main calendar plate is not the correct size. There are a few work arounds but I prefer to change the whole plate. The part number is 3135-600. That will solve your problem.
You can remove the ruby that attaches the date wheel. You can also sand the lip on the inside of the date wheel plate. Those are the two steps that will free it. Some people will sand the date wheel which is just crazy in my opinion.
There are a few things that I do for a 3135 rep when I am building it for myself of good customers. I have not had one return either.
On the old yuki the calendar plate was fine. On the SH they are too small for a real calendar wheel to move well. Also the SH and yuki have the issue of not change the date between certain hours.
This will fix it.
You need the calendar plate, the intermediate date gear, the correcting spring and the correcting gear. I like opening up the winding bridge and changing the large crown gear too. Then I also change the two winding gears. I know it is a little expense but it will make the wind feel as real as possible because all the winding parts are real. I of course also changed the whole auto winding gears and bridge and oscillating weight. This has made all the 3135 work amazing. I did have one issue with my person Yuki once because the power reserve was crap. It ending up being the main spring and I popped in a real one and solved the issue.
Now those are the essential upgrades for the calendar and winding. You still need a great cleaning and PROPER oiling. I have seen movements done by members here where they are soaked in oil. When it coms too oiling a movement the less the better. You dont want too see the oil at the end of the tip of the oiler. If you can see it take a piece of roddico and remove the extra.
Now each movement is different. Inspect each gear and pinions. On the old yuki most of them had terrible hand pinions. Lots were bent. So I would replace them. Couldn't stand too see real rolex hands not sitting flush or bumping into each other.
I hope this helps. The SH and Yuki are large improvements for us in the rep world. I look forward to getting my hands on a rep 3235 to learn it and see how close it is to real and putting on real parts. Our hobby is just getting funner by the day.
This is great information and it has helped me but I’m wondering what the part numbers are for the correcting spring, the correcting gear, large crown gear and the two winding gears. I tried using the search for those terminologies but I’m coming back blank. Thank you.
Read the thread, it is written
Sorry I must have missed it. I have read this entire thread so many times and didn’t see it.
Move the lever in the red circle on the left will stretch the balance spring and speed the movement. Move the lever on the right will relax the balance spring and slow the movement.
Move the lever very gently because it’s very sensible.
The other lever (green circle) play on the beat error but don’t touch it if you don’t have a Timegrapher.
Here is some explanation:
https://wahawatches.com/how-to-regulate-your-own-watch/
Honestly it’s quite difficult to regulate the watch without a Timegrapher, it’s possible but it will be long
Well, to be precise, VR3135 is good, but the closest rep 1:1 to GEN 3135 movement would be :
Main plate SH3135, and the rest of the parts VR3135, as the VR3135's fork pallet area is designed like SA3135. It makes sense to call them SA3135 v2 as oppose to VR3135, but that's a question better left for all our members decide here based on preference and after all its was the VRF that started these so its complicated..lol
The VR3135 is good with its original DW as some have shown severe datewheel alignments issues when GEN DW's installed...
again since they are relatively new it will take some time to obtain a full community sample as oppose to my selective sample of just a few movements since each badge is made differently
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Well, to be precise, VR3135 is good, but the closest rep 1:1 to GEN 3135 movement would be :
Main plate SH3135, and the rest of the parts VR3135, as the VR3135's fork pallet area is designed like SA3135. It makes sense to call them SA3135 v2 as oppose to VR3135, but that's a question better left for all our members decide here based on preference and after all its was the VRF that started these so its complicated..lol
The VR3135 is good with its original DW as some have shown severe datewheel alignments issues when GEN DW's installed...
again since they are relatively new it will take some time to obtain a full community sample as oppose to my selective sample of just a few movements since each badge is made differently
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Perfectly said!!!
Mate, some do, some don't. I had 3 of them. Two was good - one was not. Just like SH3135.Mate, you're saying that with a vr3135 and a gen datewheel we have a not centered number like the sh3135??
Mate, you're saying that with a vr3135 and a gen datewheel we have a not centered number like the sh3135??