23 days exactly between order and QC pictures. Order has been done on 2nd May... so it could be less than that.
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PAM177 [HWF]
- Thread starter KOT1917
- Start date
One last thing : Swan neck regulator is not functionnal. The screw is too short to push on the regulator. It seems to be the same on all ST36 movements.
The spring is then pushing on the regulator to a point where it is not possible to go to lower speed. I am at +8s/d... like this I will never have a better value.
Does somebody know where to find this kind of screw ? If I can buy a longer one, I may be interested in.
The spring is then pushing on the regulator to a point where it is not possible to go to lower speed. I am at +8s/d... like this I will never have a better value.
Does somebody know where to find this kind of screw ? If I can buy a longer one, I may be interested in.
Thank you for your review Will, i can only confurm and brein also very satisfied with the build quality of this HWF 177.
Was wearing mine straight for two weeks even while sleeping - can only recommend to use it on GEN rubber if you like rubber straps.
Mine is running with +3 / +2 Sec/day very stable, the Amplitude (checked with Timegrapher app and also one on PC is also good and the power reserve on mine is 61h.
I'm also have a feeling that the CG edges a bit sharp but it's ok (for me) - scared to use fine sanding paper because in case of unlucky softening there is no way back
My thoughts regarding getting better water resistance:
* this 177 has two crown gaskets on the outside (flat rings) and one on the inside of the crown tube. If you want to have more thighten CG - no need to sand it down - just souce out a third flat gasket or make yourself a thick one (cut it from some rubber/silicone "paper").
* other possibility: put / glue some metal plate on ther outer part of the crown which is anyway not visible if the CG is closed - this will make the crown a little bit thicker wich means more pressure/tension towards watch case.
* i saw on this PAM there is some crown tube kind os screw/nut which might get loose if you turn the crown direction down. On mine i fixed it with Locktite and fully screwed it in but if you screw it a bit out and will be able to fix it in that position it might come near the crown gasket - getting more tension while the CG is closed - improved WR
Till now i just put some silicone grease on all available case guskets and it's ok so far (showering / swimming not a problem) - the crown is not freely moving if CG is closed - some need to put a bit force but still it can be improved by sanding down th CG or mentioned steps above.
What do you mean by that? Unfortunately it is my first 6497 movement (clone) and i can not compare. The feeling while winding is fully ok on my side, i can feel the spring tension and no strange noises, all fine.
Is your stem too small - you mean by that - short?
Cheers!
Are you sure you are able tu regulate it using this part? I thought the full swan neck mechanism is fake on this movement:
Swan Neck
Screw
Lever
Try to regulate it using normal lever, i think the fake swan necl lever is not directly connected to the standard one
I wanted to regulate mine at the beginnging but aftee checking the time results there was no need for this.
Thanks for your feedback @Slayter7 !
For sure, I saw someone that have made a mod of this regulator by closing the spring to allows it pushing farther on the regulator, and changed the screw for a longer one. It may not on a PAM rep, but for sure on the Seagull ST36 on which our reps are based.
See my picture, if I want to push the reg to the minus, it will be blocked by the spring. And I am at +7s/d on almost all positions. I am sure that I can do better even without swan neck
For CG sharp angles, I am used to do some fret job on guitar or some small parts repairs using up to 2000 grit : it should be OK on this part... but should be long as titanium is a lot harder than copper based metals that I am used to play with
Do you already put a third gasket to the crown ? If yes, where to source it ?
And bout the steam that I feel a bit loose : it is like it is a little bit too thin is the mechanism. I have 2 other 6497 in hands (ETA from Tissot and Swiss DB9), and the winding mechanism is not as loose as this one.
I will check that latter... Before opening this watch, I have two others to finalize !
For sure, I saw someone that have made a mod of this regulator by closing the spring to allows it pushing farther on the regulator, and changed the screw for a longer one. It may not on a PAM rep, but for sure on the Seagull ST36 on which our reps are based.
See my picture, if I want to push the reg to the minus, it will be blocked by the spring. And I am at +7s/d on almost all positions. I am sure that I can do better even without swan neck
For CG sharp angles, I am used to do some fret job on guitar or some small parts repairs using up to 2000 grit : it should be OK on this part... but should be long as titanium is a lot harder than copper based metals that I am used to play with
Do you already put a third gasket to the crown ? If yes, where to source it ?
And bout the steam that I feel a bit loose : it is like it is a little bit too thin is the mechanism. I have 2 other 6497 in hands (ETA from Tissot and Swiss DB9), and the winding mechanism is not as loose as this one.
I will check that latter... Before opening this watch, I have two others to finalize !
Are you sure that this fake one is really connected to the whole mainspring mechanism?
See the green marked part. I guess it could be just free movable in both directions without having impact on the accuracy.
Maybe you could try to just move the yellow marked lever clockwise direction (normal minus configuration) to reduce your +7 ?
I am not familiar with this movement (fake swan neck stuff), just guessing...
Not yet, i am pretty fine with the Waterresisstance right now. Don't know if one can source it separately, was only thinking of building one by myself, just need some small rubber sheet to be able to cut it and make similar one
Just let me/us know
Have luck!Are you sure that this fake one is really connected to the whole mainspring mechanism?
See the green marked part. I guess it could be just free movable in both directions without having impact on the accuracy.
Maybe you could try to just move the yellow marked lever clockwise direction (normal minus configuration) to reduce your +7 ?
I am not familiar with this movement (fake swan neck stuff), just guessing...
Not yet, i am pretty fine with the Waterresisstance right now. Don't know if one can source it separately, was only thinking of building one by myself, just need some small rubber sheet to be able to cut it and make similar one
Just let me/us know
@Slayter7 : you were right, regulator is not linked to green and yellow parts you highlighted. So we can push the reg pin to the screw and everything appears to be correct. Then we regulate with green part.
This time I checked with timegraph app: it's better but it seems the movement needs some oil
Amplitude is very low!
This time I checked with timegraph app: it's better but it seems the movement needs some oil
Amplitude is very low!
@-Will- thank you for your feedback!
Regarding Amplitude: while using time grapher make sure:
* the watch is fully wound
* Lift Angle is set to 44 degree for this type of movement (hope you can find this setting in ur app)
I see you habe a really high beat error of over 3.0 but it should be under 0.5ms
Youbcan regulate it too by pushing the lever under the green marked part (but ibdont remember which direction) - just do it really carefully.
So the yellow part - for timing
The part under the greensquare - for beat error adjustment (you can also check some youtube videos for better understandings)
I am usually usually open source time graphing software and simply a microphone connected to my pc (to avoid unnecessary magnetic impacts while putting a smartphone on a watch)
This tg-timer software is able to do accurate measurements!
Regarding Amplitude: while using time grapher make sure:
* the watch is fully wound
* Lift Angle is set to 44 degree for this type of movement (hope you can find this setting in ur app)
I see you habe a really high beat error of over 3.0 but it should be under 0.5ms
Youbcan regulate it too by pushing the lever under the green marked part (but ibdont remember which direction) - just do it really carefully.
So the yellow part - for timing
The part under the greensquare - for beat error adjustment (you can also check some youtube videos for better understandings)
I am usually usually open source time graphing software and simply a microphone connected to my pc (to avoid unnecessary magnetic impacts while putting a smartphone on a watch)
This tg-timer software is able to do accurate measurements!
Yes watch was fully wound, and lift angle set to 44° as you can see on the picture.
I think this is more yellow for beat error (as it is the end of the spring) and green for timing.
I will wait for correct caseback opener to arrive... because the multistandard tool with 3 grips lets some marks on the caseback.
Thanks for your answers
I think this is more yellow for beat error (as it is the end of the spring) and green for timing.
I will wait for correct caseback opener to arrive... because the multistandard tool with 3 grips lets some marks on the caseback.
Thanks for your answers
I did not resist to open it again... cleaned and lubed only escapement parts jewels. Adjust a bit regulator and stud... not easy to get something accurate with a iPhone app timegrapher but it is far better than previously.
I will make a full service during winter when I will get more time to clean and lub all the movement parts.
I will make a full service during winter when I will get more time to clean and lub all the movement parts.
May not be always true as, for example, this 177 is indicated "waterproof" and it resist perfectly to shower and pool with the dry gaskets.
There are 2 gaskets (o-ring + flat ones) for the crown, and o-ring perfectly dimensioned for case back.
I only put silicone grease to ensure it will be OK when going to ocean and lakes during holydays
- 4/9/19
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I got my watch a few days ago, and it seems like the power reserve runs out quickly after about 20 winds. The watch stops working randomly within 12 hours. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks!
In an ideal situation, 50-60 full rotations will give you up to 48 hours. When you wind the PANERAI (lominor), it is not easy to make a full rotation, due to the presence of CG, and therefore half-rotations are obtained. There is a suspicion that you simply did not wind it to the end. Try to do this to failure and save time. It should be at least 40 hours.
merowinger
I'm Pretty Popular
Hello guys
I just bought a used, older PAM 177, HWF.
The watch is nice and all., but the crystal is very disapointing, as it is very reflective, and in a strange way that is (of course it's always depending on the lighting and the angle).
Any idea what I can do? replace crystal with a prof crystal ? or is there another supplier?
Thank you!
I just bought a used, older PAM 177, HWF.
The watch is nice and all., but the crystal is very disapointing, as it is very reflective, and in a strange way that is (of course it's always depending on the lighting and the angle).
Any idea what I can do? replace crystal with a prof crystal ? or is there another supplier?
Thank you!
Send it away to have it AR coated?Hello guys
I just bought a used, older PAM 177, HWF.
The watch is nice and all., but the crystal is very disapointing, as it is very reflective, and in a strange way that is (of course it's always depending on the lighting and the angle).
Any idea what I can do? replace crystal with a prof crystal ? or is there another supplier?
Thank you!