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Noob Daytona vs ARF Daytona

kudos

Active Member
18/2/14
250
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Thanks I thought that was the case with the ceramic ARF. Just waiting for the 116500 white dial noob v2 to be released now...
Yes, I am waiting for that version too. I hope they fix the dial, bezel and the case shape in the next release as that imo will make this a super rep.
 

rolexlover101

Known Member
29/12/18
145
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0
Sorry I may have missed it...
The Noob v2 116500LN power reserve is around 72 hours.
What about the ARF v2?
 

The Tourist

Active Member
27/3/14
280
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I'm actually also planning the "budget chimera" version and got a question I couldn't find in this thread so far:

If I have the black ARF V2 and the black Noob V2, and I want to transplant all the good parts e.g. dial, bezel, crystal, clasp from the ARF to the Noob, can I fit all the Noob "leftovers" back to the ARF? Especially I wanted to know if the Noob dial and crystal will fit in the ARF?

Could anyone please enlighten me?

Or would you recommend to just buy an additional black ARF dial for the Noob straight away and leave the ARF untouched?

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agreco823

Looking Around
30/12/18
3
2
3
hi guys, today I received the QC photos of my new Daytona Arf, as you can see there is a clear fault on the bezel in the number 240, I answered the dealer that I am not willing to receive this watch. What do you think?
 

grandphuba

Active Member
8/4/18
255
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0
I'm actually also planning the "budget chimera" version and got a question I couldn't find in this thread so far:

If I have the black ARF V2 and the black Noob V2, and I want to transplant all the good parts e.g. dial, bezel, crystal, clasp from the ARF to the Noob, can I fit all the Noob "leftovers" back to the ARF? Especially I wanted to know if the Noob dial and crystal will fit in the ARF?

Could anyone please enlighten me?

Or would you recommend to just buy an additional black ARF dial for the Noob straight away and leave the ARF untouched?

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Factories/TDs generally don't sell parts individually anymore. Not sure about the other parts, but since you have to shave the dial of the ARF for it to fit the Noob, I'd assume the Noob dial would be too small for the ARF. People that had their hands on both the ARF and the Noob v2 seem to be unanimous though that the Noob v2 dials and bezels aren't that bad that modding them with ARF parts aren't worth it anymore.

I personally ordered a Noob v2, but instead of modding it with ARF parts, I'd rather be safe and spend the money on gen parts
 

grandphuba

Active Member
8/4/18
255
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0
hi guys, today I received the QC photos of my new Daytona Arf, as you can see there is a clear fault on the bezel in the number 240, I answered the dealer that I am not willing to receive this watch. What do you think?

Your photos don't show, but If you already red flagged it, our opinion is moot anyway since you can't get it back.
 

The Tourist

Active Member
27/3/14
280
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...but since you have to shave the dial of the ARF for it to fit the Noob, I'd assume the Noob dial would be too small for the ARF.

Yes, that was indeed my concern and the reason I asked.


People that had their hands on both the ARF and the Noob v2 seem to be unanimous though that the Noob v2 dials and bezels aren't that bad that modding them with ARF parts aren't worth it anymore.

Frankly, you're right, the black Noob V2 seems to be an improvement on first sight. I'm not so much into Rollies and can't really judge down to the small details what's the difference between the black V1 and black V2 though. As said before, one obvious thing I can see with the V2 are the thinner subdials.

BTW, can anyone give a more detailed comparison between the black dial Noob V1 and V2? (Or is it already somewhere in this thread and I missed it? ...if so, mea culpa!)

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Last edited:

ssouthall6

Put Some Respect On My Name
10/10/13
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Yes, that was indeed my concern and the reason I asked.




Frankly, you're right, the black Noob V2 seems to be an improvement on first sight. I'm not so much into Rollies and can't really judge down to the small details what's the difference between the black V1 and black V2 though. As said before, one obvious thing I can see with the V2 are the thinner subdials.

BTW, can anyone give a more detailed comparison between the black dial Noob V1 and V2? (Or is it already somewhere in this thread and I missed it? ...if so, mea culpa!)

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As far as I can see, the dial did not change from v1 to v2 on the black 116500 or 116520, however I am yet to see a proper v2 in the flesh. The Subdials are clearly thinner on the 116519 v2 so hopefully this is to come




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The Tourist

Active Member
27/3/14
280
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Aah, ok, thanks for your reply @ssouthall6

Could this be a Noob 116500 V2? The subdials don't look that fat on this one.. still too thick, but I have the impression that it's not as thick as the early ones I saw here:

20190105-234341.jpg


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ssouthall6

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Aah, ok, thanks for your reply @ssouthall6

Could this be a Noob 116500 V2? The subdials don't look that fat on this one.. still too thick, but I have the impression that it's not as thick as the early ones I saw here:

20190105-234341.jpg


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Yeah that looks like a noob v2 to me


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ssouthall6

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Noob is getting very close with these dials now!

Just fatten the O and we are there, the other details aren't too bad

f12220d9d945e52504ac2ecf12e0828b.jpg



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jcher

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Could this one be a v2 too ? Comparing your picture The Tourist the subdials look similar in size
hvKea.jpg

Another question, how difficult it is on this version to change the crystal gasket in order to reach gen thickness (I am concerned w/ the ceramic bezel)?
 

Markus2015

You're Saying I Can Sell?
30/9/15
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on both pictures the bezel/dial seem very misaligned if i look at the 120 marker .. or is it just the angle?
 

peterpl

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Could this one be a v2 too ? Comparing your picture The Tourist the subdials look similar in size
hvKea.jpg

Another question, how difficult it is on this version to change the crystal gasket in order to reach gen thickness (I am concerned w/ the ceramic bezel)?

White dial subs still looks thick. Your one might be a v1 though.
 

jcher

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White dial subs still looks thick. Your one might be a v1 though.

Indeed you are right ! After superimposing the two images I can see that!

Markus2015 I believe it is the angle. 240 marker is slightly misaligned but i can live w/ that
hvTLA.jpg
 

ssouthall6

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Could this one be a v2 too ? Comparing your picture The Tourist the subdials look similar in size
hvKea.jpg

Another question, how difficult it is on this version to change the crystal gasket in order to reach gen thickness (I am concerned w/ the ceramic bezel)?

It's a V2. The noob V1 dial had thinner subdials but poorer dial print.

A good watchsmith will be able to switch crystal gasket without breaking the ceramic bezel, I wouldn't leave it in the hands of an amateur.

On the bezel alignment, I wouldn't worry. My IWC slevin with gen timing ring is ever so slightly misaligned as well, it never bothers me as the watch is so infrequently dead centred on my wrist.
 

The Tourist

Active Member
27/3/14
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Just for your interest, here are some other QC pictures from my probable 126500 Noob V2:

1223-3.jpg

1223-6.jpg

1223-7.jpg

1223-10.jpg

1223-2.jpg


Yes, the bezel markers seem (like with some ARF's) misaligned. Especially at the 120 marker this is visible on my specimen. I have to see it in real when it arrives and maybe this is/was either a bad picture angle, or it has to go to a watchsmith for a realignment of the whole thing because I'm anyway planning to do at least the gasket mod and if needed a bit of an oiling.

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