Yep, just twist.. it’s the NIADLOCK system, honest.. it won’t kill you! Just me mindful I found the gasket on the ORF was a bit flimsy and dropped to the floor, my VSF has a much thicker gasket so stayed put.
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NEW NTTD No Time to Die Titanium/Titanium Seamaster 007 Edition
- Thread starter OldNavitimer
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Yep, just twist.. it’s the NIADLOCK system, honest.. it won’t kill you! Just me mindful I found the gasket on the ORF was a bit flimsy and dropped to the floor, my VSF has a much thicker gasket so stayed put.
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As VSF don’t exist properly I think you will struggle via TD’s. Most are saying ‘no spares’ for VSF
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Have a hunt around this forum, so one posted a ‘how-to’ guide with a series of images to sort this out. It may be earlier in this thread even.
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OK, so I took my watch to my local watchmaker. The first thing I told him, before anything else, was "this is a replica".
I told him the watch is running fast, he checked it and said that it semed it was going slow, but he was going to check it. He disassembled it, looked at me and said "if you hadn't tole me it was a replica, I wouldn't have known just by looking at it - it's even made of titanium!"
But he said the motor is very cheap and with low quality parts. So he's currently trying to fix it. But he has recommended changing the mechanism and installing an ETA. He said I'm going to have issues with it... I don't know much about watchmaking, but he said it was a skeleton frame and sort of weak. he also said all of the decorations could fall off and. cause issues in the long run. His recommendation was to change the motor, and waterproof the watch... he also said it was pretty much identical to an original, so why not upgrade it.
Opinions?
I told him the watch is running fast, he checked it and said that it semed it was going slow, but he was going to check it. He disassembled it, looked at me and said "if you hadn't tole me it was a replica, I wouldn't have known just by looking at it - it's even made of titanium!"
But he said the motor is very cheap and with low quality parts. So he's currently trying to fix it. But he has recommended changing the mechanism and installing an ETA. He said I'm going to have issues with it... I don't know much about watchmaking, but he said it was a skeleton frame and sort of weak. he also said all of the decorations could fall off and. cause issues in the long run. His recommendation was to change the motor, and waterproof the watch... he also said it was pretty much identical to an original, so why not upgrade it.
Opinions?
I would just run it as is. Wait til it craps out then swap to ETA/miyota
but everyone’s situation and finances are different. If swapping to an eta/miyota is chump change then go for it.
I haven’t had any issues with any Asian eta/miyota clones yet. Some wind and feel a bit crappier than others, some feel crisp. None have given me problems in several years. 50-60 of them. Just enjoy it as is, another rep will come out that you love, funds may be better spent on a second watch.
Swapping in a Swiss ETA ofc would be a good option which will give you years of peace at mind. The only issue is that ETA movts are no longer cheap and they are not as readily accessible as they used to be. And there is the problem of tons of Chinese cloned ETA's on the market, they all are stamped eta on the plates. The chances of you getting a fake one is pretty high
SoulBrotha
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- 13/3/22
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It's great to know there will always be someone more nitpicky than myself monitoring such things. Just ordered a VSF from Supermirrors (first ever order) wish me luck. :lolzor:
I ordered several replicas from different factories
the omega 007 from VSF is the best watch i ever got
I am wearing it daily !
the omega 007 from VSF is the best watch i ever got
I am wearing it daily !
Have a stupid Breitling with a stripped crown tube, after spending a ton of time ripping it all apart and filing down bits to get a few extra threads I read a post Mclarendude made about just shortening the stem and making it a push pull movement with no threads at all. Sometimes it really suck to be a blonde. Next time I’ll just shorten the stem a bit. Replacing the crown and tube on one of these is likely a big job.
You can slide some fine black cotton thread under the bezel and wrap tightly around a few times, then tie and cut the thread as close to the bezel as possible, and tuck underneath. Worked great with mine, good firm bezel action.
Sounds doable. By any chance did you have to remove it or would it be hard to remove it?
You can remove the bezel with the right tools but I did not do this, I just wound a few times under the bezel making sure it was as tight as possible. It seems to act as a cushion and force the assembly a bit tighter together so you get a firm click and no play. Very nice.
Thanks man I will definitely try it when I get the time. Would a normal knot do the trick? Or multiple? I think tying it would be a challenge
used a normal knot (cross thread, reverse on self, cross under and pull tight).
Trick was keeping the tension so it knots well under the bezel but it wasn't that tricky. Also can use a thin blade to push any remaining hint of thread under the bezel. Also used black thread.
All that is visible round the edge of the bezel from side on is clean join with the case and bezel. VSF did a great job IMHO but they should have gone further and done the notch by the HE valve - that would make it superrep.
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