NEW! 1675 GMT case set offering from Raffles.

[turbo911]

What's the best/easy method for removing the crown tube on these? I intend to reuse it so don't want to ruin it...

remove the gaskets and heat it so that the locktite loosens up. then insert a file and unscrew carefiully without damaging the inside of the tube

 

[sonofprent]

remove the gaskets and heat it so that the locktite loosens up. then insert a file and unscrew carefiully without damaging the inside of the tube

Thanks very much!

 

[WatchN3RD]

remove the gaskets and heat it so that the locktite loosens up. then insert a file and unscrew carefiully without damaging the inside of the tube

Extra credit for recommending a file instead of a rolex specific tool that may or may not work! Files work perfectly, but I have used torx bits too (and rolex tools). I don't think a file that has been lightly tapped in place has ever failed me though.

 

[Singapore9]

I had hell getting one of my Old Crowns case tubes out the other day with a file... on DrV's recommendation, got a pair of snips/wire cutters, got a good grip and gave it a twist and it came free. Lots of loctite on it and had even hit the case with the gas hob, boiling water, etc. Will go straight to the wire cutters, next time... I killed two (cheap) files!

 

[cradle101]

Use a rat tail file.

 

[max_mose]

I am thinking of trying to build my own entry level 1675 using parts from Raffles. My only “watch building" experience comes from building plug n play TMI NH35/34 watches, which I have really enjoyed.

I have put together a parts list on Raffles including:-
Case
Dial
Hands
Bracelet
Date disc overlay

I intend to pickup a movement from AliExpress. Can anyone keep me right on what I should be searching for please?

How straight forward would a build like this be? Anything that is likely to catch me out or is it similar to NH34 builds that I have done previously? Have I missed anything? I guess I will need some stems.

I did a "Seiko” 1675” homage which is fine but the cyclops is rubbish, the roulette date wheel is poor quality and doesn't align but my biggest concern is that it feels a little big on my skinny 6.25" (16mm) wrist. So much so even with all of the links out of the jubilee style bracelet it is still loose and I end up wearing it on a nato.

I really fancy a riveted bracelet and am willing to try removing links. Do you think the watch will still be too big?

Whilst a custom build would be great I just don't want to spend that much on a replica watch that I would end up being too precious about wearing.

I would really appreciate any input on what I may have missed, any opinions on size and any pointers for the build.

My "Seiko 1675” build.

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[sonofprent]

What's the routine with stem removal on the 6460? Is it that you don't push the release in too far and have it set in wind/running when removing?

 

[geoffdragon]

I have the stem fully out in time setting position, then use a 1mm screwdriver and gently press the release. They are designed so a 1mm screwdriver won't push too far into the movement.

 

[extreme^]

I have the stem fully out in time setting position, then use a 1mm screwdriver and gently press the release. They are designed so a 1mm screwdriver won't push too far into the movement.

Exactly, also be sure to have the stem pulled out all the way (2nd position).

 

[sonofprent]

I have the stem fully out in time setting position, then use a 1mm screwdriver and gently press the release. They are designed so a 1mm screwdriver won't push too far into the movement.

Thank you - I've read about three different ways now so I'm hoping yours is correct... figured you lot would know best. I really don't fancy rebuilding the keyless works.

 

[sonofprent]

So, hands installed, sort of - my GMT hand seems to make it's way around the dial faster than my hour hand, meaning it's never a fixed distance apart. It's like the gearing is off, or that I'm an idiot?

 

[geoffdragon]

@sonofprent the GMT hand on a 6460 is the one closest to the dial....it goes round the dial once in 24 hours....whilst the hour hand goes round twice.
A GMT hand is never a fixed distance from the hour hand.

 

[sonofprent]

@sonofprent the GMT hand on a 6460 is the one closest to the dial....it goes round the dial once in 24 hours....whilst the hour hand goes round twice.
A GMT hand is never a fixed distance from the hour hand.

Ah, thanks - I am indeed an idiot! (I'd assumed it was at a fixed interval for dual time - I've never used a GMT before!)

 

[sonofprent]

How does the movement sit within the watch on these - it feels a bit rattly in there so I assume I've done it wrong.

 

[geoffdragon]

Your are missing the movement holder.

Have a look ok at this post...

Just finished! Swiss ETA2836-2 Top Grade with A2836 GMT parts installed. Jubilee bracelet is ready

 

[sonofprent]

Your are missing the movement holder.

Have a look ok at this post...

Thanks, appreciated... I did wonder. Any ideas where I can buy one?

 

[geoffdragon]

It should have come with one....
This is from the raffles site....
"<> It has the bubble acrylic crystal with cyclop and the Coca-Cola friction bezel can turn both directions on the watch case. There is a movement ring inside the case for 2836 movement. "
Go back to Ken and ask for one.

 

[sonofprent]

It should have come with one....
This is from the raffles site....
"<> It has the bubble acrylic crystal with cyclop and the Coca-Cola friction bezel can turn both directions on the watch case. There is a movement ring inside the case for 2836 movement. "
Go back to Ken and ask for one.

Yeah I wondered about that - I'll give ken a shout and meanwhile I have fashioned/hacked something as a stop gap...

 

[sonofprent]

Bit of a stop gap with the movement holder, though ken is very kindly sending me one - he's a great chap!

It's in the wrist...

 

[geoffdragon]

Ah, now I can understand why you didn't know how the GMT hand worked ...
(If you had a GMT bezel on this, the GMT hand (red one) would be reading 12 noon...)