Hey man, I hate to knock anyone else's watch, but that crown position is not close. From the side it's clearly below the center line, while a 3135 is centered or above, depending on the case thickness. And looking at the front of the watch, the way you'd usually see it, the lower CP means very different CG shape. Plenty of people don't care, but while a lot of tells can be covered as service work or variations between model years, the low CP is a dead giveaway.
Also the logic on replacement parts doesn't really apply anymore. The old SA3135 was unreliable years ago, but it improved... SH3135 is better, and now we have the VR3135. All available in abundance, along with aftermarket parts. So again, everyone can chart their own way, but there isn't really a solid reason to go with a non-clone movement these days.
I totally get what you mean, but I'm afraid I'm not quite convinced. The crown position IS close. Check these out:
Now check again on the ZZF 2836. I will zoom in a little bit so you can properly check it out:
I'm afraid we are talking about less than a milimeter here mate. It is 100% impossible that anyone can notice that even by sitting the whole night by your side on a dinner and looking closely. And even handling the watch over and upon inspection either. And, in the case someone is as knowledgeable to really find out, they would also find out with any other rep as there are flaws that can't be hidden to a really high level professional. The point is, at this level of "almost" gen crown height I can't be bothered, honestly.
Now on the movement side, which is the reason why I'm happy to reach a compromise with a 2836's crown height... I'm sorry but I digress too. VR3135 is a great movement and of course I'm sure it adds to the interesting point of being set as the genuine 3135 (rotating crown clockwise rotates hands clockwise too, etc). But if your pallet fork breaks where do you go and buy one? If your seconds hand pinion gets smashed while pushing too much a gen set of hands, where do you go and buy one? No TD will serve you parts of any clone at all, so you have to get yourself another full movement. Not the case with an ETA clone as you can buy as many spare parts as you want, for really cheap prices (same goes for your watchsmith, who will charge you way less to repair it, btw).
And there is an extra, when I talk about longevity I use that work quite intentionally. In ten years from now, will VR3135 still be available? You have been registered since 2012, do you remember what we had in that time? I can 99% assure you that in 10 years I will be able to source a new set of hands wheels, canon wheel, winding stems, etc. You name it. And in ten years from now I will be able to find a friendly watchsmith that will be able to repair it. I will also be able to swap the movement for a sealed Swiss made Sellita (or another asian A2836).
Don't get me wrong, I completely understand the reason to use a VR3135. You can add genuine parts without problem and that is not just a minor difference. But to say that there isn't a solid reason to not go for a clone movement is quite far from the truth. I would probably say that with the quality of the new VR3135 now you have two great avenues to pursue:
1. Franken: go for VR3135
2. Daily beater for the rest of your life: go for A2836
There's really no need to disparage any of these two options, honestly. Both are great options and I am grateful that the rep industry has gone that far.