My Reps Journal (Daytona, Subs, SD43, PP 5711, vintage 1016 and so on)

[MaximillianGT]

I made numerous attempts to capture the "shininess" of both the outer and inner rims of the subdials, but I kept falling short. Back when I was a photojournalist in the fashion industry, this would have been much easier—unfortunately, I no longer have access to that professional equipment, especially the powerful lighting system. Eventually, I did manage to get a decent shot in a relatively low-light environment.



The JJ dial features two shiny rims, both outer and inner, likely intended to mimic the original design. This has its pros and cons. On the positive side, it clearly sets itself apart from all the OEM dials produced by other rep factories. However, the downside is that in photos, the subdials often appear "fatter" than they actually are, even though the measurements are accurate.

If I am really so a-pain-in-the-ass to build my best franken 116500, I might have to go with the gen dial at the end of the day...... A 2.5k spending that couldn't possibly be avoided.

 

[MaximillianGT]

A new toy coming in today, another 1016! This time from my friend @Karbon74, he built a very nice one and put it onto the M2M, I bought it in no time!

The last one I posted here a few pages earlier is for my wife, now I have this for myself. As usual, Karbon74 did a fantastic job retro the vintage 1016 nostalgic vibe, especially the dial and hands. Take a look!

P.S.: I tuned the photos' colour profile so that they have some Ernst Haas kinda tone and touch.

 

[Karbon74]

Thanks you @MaximillianGT
And my apologies again for the bug with the gasket

I should have waited until I was rested from my trip back before checking and shipping

 

[MaximillianGT]

Thanks you @MaximillianGT
And my apologies again for the bug with the gasket

I should have waited until I was rested from my trip back before checking and shipping

No worries man, just a little hiccup, fixed within a minute.

 

[MaximillianGT]

I put it onto a Nato strap, looks and feels good!

 

[MaximillianGT]

Alright, let’s dive into the saga of my 3KF 5711 – a tale of misaligned hands, mysterious malfunctions, and horological heartbreak.

So, not long after I published my glowing review (roughly three hours, but who’s counting?), things started going south fast. First, the hour hand decided it was living in its own time zone. Set the time to 9 o’clock, and the hour hand nonchalantly pointed to 9:30. And this? Just the beginning. I pulled the crown again, but when it came time to push it back in? No dice. Eventually, the whole watch went kaput. Classic.

As any seasoned RWI member would, I reached out to the TD. But instead of shipping the poor thing back, I sent it to a watchmaker in the EU. Spoiler: that didn’t go well either. The watchmaker basically shrugged, said, “Not my circus, not my monkeys,” and sent it back without fixing a thing.

At this point, I’m thinking, "Okay, time for Plan B." I get in touch with TWM. They kindly offer to take the watch for inspection and possible repair. Here’s where the magic happened – unlike the EU watchmaker, TWM actually fixed it. Score one for the TD!

Fast forward five weeks, and the watch is back in my hands. Apparently, everything is fixed, including that slightly wonky 12-hour marker. Did they tell me what went wrong? Nope. Mystery remains unsolved. I bought this beauty in March, and finally, by September, I had something I could actually wear. But let’s be real – this isn’t the TD’s fault. Reps go through all sorts of adventures during assembly, shipping, and, well, life.

Now the watch *works*, but let’s not get too excited. It’s running at a charming from +-18 seconds to +30-40 seconds per day, with a beat error of up to 5 ms, and an amplitude that swings between 212 and 305. Everything is dancing all around, nothing is stable. Is that… normal? Probably not, but here we are.

So, what’s next? I’m on the hunt for a better movement, but the options are… limited. The Miyota 9015 is off the table – the case just won’t fit it. The ACE/VSV movement? That’s like trying to catch a unicorn; no one, not even modders, can give me a straight answer. I spoke to Buff, who suggested swapping in an engraved movement – but let’s be honest, that’s just the same movement in a fancier outfit. I’m basically rolling the dice again. Meanwhile, I’ve already sunk 2k into this horological adventure.

Oh, and I *was* eyeing the AP 15400. But after this fiasco, I’m having second thoughts – the clone movement reviews are all over the place. I might just stick with the good ol' reliable Rolex clone, at least for now. I’m not ready for round two of disappointment just yet.

 

[Karbon74]

What’s the stem height and size of that movement?
And is this a display caseback?

 

[MaximillianGT]

What’s the stem height and size of that movement?
And is this a display caseback?

Couldn’t find any related info, all I know is the movement is 3.3mm height. And yes, a display case back.

 

[Karbon74]

And any way to get hold of a replacement?
Or is it just too expensive?

 

[MaximillianGT]

And any way to get hold of a replacement?
Or is it just too expensive?

We have a bit of discussion here.

Long story short: 2 options. I can get one from a secondhand Calatrava 6007a, costs around 50k, or like Cheesegrater suggested, get one from I don’t know where the source is for 7k. But then I really have no earthly idea where the hell can I find a 7k one…

 

[Dave2302]

Wow, sorry to here this. I don't know much about PP, have one (a cheapie that was gifted to me by a kind member here), in my collection and that runs like a wee champ, and as they go it looks pretty good too.
I also realise that perhaps you buy top notch watches, whereas I have a great tolerance for the mid tier lower priced items.

So, from my perspective I would be looking to see if it's possible with a bit of case machining to fit a more mainstream and reliable movement such as a Miyota, the other thing I have been known to do is to actually accept that the odd one or two reps are just jinxed, so I break it up for parts and buy another of the same, or even a different factory.

All that said, maybe I'm talking cock as I haven't yet read your thread linked above, will head over there shortly, but whatever, this seems to be a labour of love and I hope you manage to sort it out however you decide to proceed

 

[Karbon74]

Putting a gen mvt in this would be weird
The only viable option would be to get a used similar rep and scavenge the mvt

 

[MaximillianGT]

Wow, sorry to here this. I don't know much about PP, have one (a cheapie that was gifted to me by a kind member here), in my collection and that runs like a wee champ, and as they go it looks pretty good too.
I also realise that perhaps you buy top notch watches, whereas I have a great tolerance for the mid tier lower priced items.

So, from my perspective I would be looking to see if it's possible with a bit of case machining to fit a more mainstream and reliable movement such as a Miyota, the other thing I have been known to do is to actually accept that the odd one or two reps are just jinxed, so I break it up for parts and buy another of the same, or even a different factory.

All that said, maybe I'm talking cock as I haven't yet read your thread linked above, will head over there shortly, but whatever, this seems to be a labour of love and I hope you manage to sort it out however you decide to proceed

Thank you for your kind words. Am still trying to figure this out, but it doesn't look like I can find a perfect solution ATM.

Putting a gen mvt in this would be weird
The only viable option would be to get a used similar rep and scavenge the mvt

When it comes to the rep movement, I've got three options on the table: stick with another 3KF clone, gamble on the ACE/VSV "superclone," or go for a PPM movement from Buff. The first option, like I mentioned, is a bit of a dice roll - who knows if my luck will improve this time. The second option? It’s practically a legend. No one really knows how much of a "clone" that "superclone" even is. All I know about this mysterious movement is it costs north of 2k. The third option? Same gamble as the first, just with prettier engravings. I could easily end up with another subpar movement dressed up with a fancier finish.

The worst part is, if this thing craps out again, no watchmaker seems willing - or able - to fix it. To be fair, Rolex clones are hailed as the best, while the 3KF clone 324SC is hands down the worst clone I’ve come across. Even the trusted watchmakers we know in the EU? They’re not familiar with this disaster of a movement.

 

[Happyyeren]

I think you should try another 3kf movement. I have had 3 324 3kf clone movement. All of them are working great and keeps time perfectly. I dont have the exact stats but i wore them everyday straight for 1-2 wks each and it was only 1 min faster by the end of it. One of them however had a broken gear but was replaced and its not running great again. I guess its really a hit or miss situation but considering the price of your other options and they would also risk being a shitter too, its cheaper to roll the dice with a stock 3kf

 

[MaximillianGT]

I think you should try another 3kf movement. I have had 3 324 3kf clone movement. All of them are working great and keeps time perfectly. I dont have the exact stats but i wore them everyday straight for 1-2 wks each and it was only 1 min faster by the end of it. One of them however had a broken gear but was replaced and its not running great again. I guess its really a hit or miss situation but considering the price of your other options and they would also risk being a shitter too, its cheaper to roll the dice with a stock 3kf

Yes, I think so too, I should get 6 of those so I can have my mini 324 repairation shop in case my luck doesn't get any better. Thank you for your suggestion.

 

[Karbon74]

I think you should try another 3kf movement. I have had 3 324 3kf clone movement. All of them are working great and keeps time perfectly. I dont have the exact stats but i wore them everyday straight for 1-2 wks each and it was only 1 min faster by the end of it. One of them however had a broken gear but was replaced and its not running great again. I guess its really a hit or miss situation but considering the price of your other options and they would also risk being a shitter too, its cheaper to roll the dice with a stock 3kf

How much is a 324 clone mvt and how do you get them?

 

[MaximillianGT]

How much is a 324 clone mvt and how do you get them?

I'll get it from Buff, he is by far the best supplier in general because he nearly has everything. for an engraved PPM, he sells me at around $500 (3500 yuan), if swapping with him can deduct 1000 yuan ($140). I didn't talk to him about a stock 3kf movement, but I think it is around $350 if I am not too wrong.

 

[MaximillianGT]

@Karbon74 just an example what Buff can sort out. I am buying this aventurine dial from him:



From rep parts to gen parts, he almost can get everything. He also has those double layer tungsten-core cases and bracelets for Rolex.

 

[markwinkler999]

Thinking of getting a black Clean 116500. this really helps me to decide thank you,

 

[MaximillianGT]

Thinking of getting a black Clean 116500. this really helps me to decide thank you,

Clean black dial is the best bet if you want an OTB Daytona.