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My Reps Journal (Daytona, Subs, SD43, PP 5711, vintage 1016 and so on)
- Thread starter MaximillianGT
- Start date
I love reading about people's journeys, particularly when they take something and make it better, rather than just (mostly) consume, like I do.
It's a true demonstration of love for watches, IMO. Real commitment, takes time, effort, patience . . .
Beautiful watches, @MaximillianGT!
It's a true demonstration of love for watches, IMO. Real commitment, takes time, effort, patience . . .
Beautiful watches, @MaximillianGT!
Well, I was like a first-year resident doctor in the surgery theatre, laying all the tools on the bench, opening up the case, and putting the thing on the movement holder dial-side up. When everything was ready, I chickened out and sent the whole shebang to Natas78.So if DIY Kudos to you, if not I don't blame you, not sure I'd like to fit dial / hand set on a DT, I subbed mine out to Ado who made a beautiful job.
Love this watch, it's looking great
I can't handle dials and hands. Last time when I did so, I laid 2 brand new scratches on the dial even with a plastic sheet covering the dial and hands...I will still practice my skills of course, but not on a Daytona.
Thank you! Yes, it is much more fun when upgrading reps bit by bit. Just like DIY home decoration.
You are far more skilful than me, you can do it.I would also freak out having to do this on a new dayto
Thanks for your honesty, that is a lovely Daytona you have there now
I have very recently purchased a nice looking 116500 LN Quartz DT, to upgrade a real cheapie one I have.
I want to do the Red Centre Sec / Red Sub Dial hands upgrade that I got Ado to do to my white dial model, plus freeze on zero that silly sub dial @3 hand which just inanely moves around with the time hours on the VK Qtz models.
I think I will ask the pro's first, before I go all gung ho at it.
I have successfully recently done several Dial / Hand swaps / repairs, but not on chronos with tiny subdial hands, and my arthritis and eyesight makes it challenging to say the least.
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In the entire horology/watchmaking journey, the only thing that taunts me most is anything to do with the dial. I have made numerous messes with any dial, you name it, I messed it. I still remember once when I was so lucky to get through almost everything, I used some rodico to do the final cleaning of the dial. Guess what? That tiny piece of rodico stuck the subdial hand out of the pinion. Yes, I know the problem is I didn't apply the correct amount of force onto the hand so it wasn't instaled firmly, but this is just exactly how bad I am working with the dial-side of a movement.Thanks for your honesty, that is a lovely Daytona you have there now
I have very recently purchased a nice looking 116500 LN Quartz DT, to upgrade a real cheapie one I have.
I want to do the Red Centre Sec / Red Sub Dial hands upgrade that I got Ado to do to my white dial model, plus freeze on zero that silly sub dial @3 hand which just inanely moves around with the time hours on the VK Qtz models.
I think I will ask the pro's first, before I go all gung ho at it.
I have successfully recently done several Dial / Hand swaps / repairs, but not on chronos with tiny subdial hands, and my arthritis and eyesight makes it challenging to say the least.
My personal challenge is my work area. I need to clear un my office desk to work. It’s clean, well lit and optimal condition, but it’s a hassle to setup…
…and then I always find a way to lose a part somehow.
…and then I always find a way to lose a part somehow.
I am sharing a study room with my wife, so I have to put all my tools and parts in a toolbox:
My repair mat is put aside when she uses the desk. Machines like timegrapher etc are set on the desk. I can't do sanding polishing etc in my study room, so the vice and dremel etc are in the cellar.
And yes, setup is always a hassle, can't just walk in, take 30 mins of pleasure and simply walk away when done.
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I am sharing a study room with my wife, so I have to put all my tools and parts in a toolbox:
My repair mat is put aside when she uses the desk. Machines like timegrapher etc are set on the desk. I can't do sanding polishing etc in my study room, so the vice and dremel etc are in the cellar.
And yes, setup is always a hassle, can't just walk in and take 30 mins of pleasure and simply walk away when done.
I have bought a small cabinet and a cupboard for my tools and parts
I saw something like this on cousinuk:I have bought a small cabinet and a cupboard for my tools and parts
Would love to get one, just not sure if it is useful.
I saw something like this on cousinuk:
Would love to get one, just not sure if it is useful.
Something like this is on my to-buy list too
Three benefits.
Eye level, arms stability and the small ridge on the bench catches most rolling stuff
The small drawer could also be useful for a few tools, tweezers, holders etc
Might search for one in Germany, want to avoid the hassle of shipping from the UK as much as possible.
This is what you need
The Watchmaker's Workbench - Maison Alcée
Maison Alcée offers you a watchmaking workbench in solid oak or beech made to offer optimal conditions during assembly.
www.maison-alcee.com
My wife tried to gift this to me but I declined as my skill was not worth it at that time…
Maybe I will gift it to myself at my birthday next year
This is a beautiful bench, reasonable price as well considering the quality looks really nice!This is what you need
The Watchmaker's Workbench - Maison Alcée
Maison Alcée offers you a watchmaking workbench in solid oak or beech made to offer optimal conditions during assembly.
My wife tried to gift this to me but I declined as my skill was not worth it at that time…
Maybe I will gift it to myself at my birthday next year
The weather has been a bit odd this year. Usually, in Bavaria during the summer, we get loads of sunshine. But this year, it's mostly been overcast. I waited for a sunny day for a while but gave up and decided to take photos with the bit of sunshine I could find (not exactly sunny, but with some sun). This isn't a photo-heavy post, but here are some shots.
You might be wondering why I chose the JJ dial. Here's why: first, the coronet. When I bought the Clean 116500, it was a V3. V3 is a good version, possibly the best out-of-the-box rep of the 116500 black dial, and they improved the dial by getting rid of the "fat subdials" from the previous version. But there's a catch: the coronet - the infamous "big hole crown". I have to say, in daily wear, this is never a problem because the natural position of the chrono second-hand covers it nicely. But still, the problem exists.
I couldn't take a good shot of the JJ crown so I tuned the exposure of the photo to highlight the coronet. The JJ dial fixed this beautifully. Another issue with the OEM Clean V3 is that the coronet, hour markers, and hands are stainless steel, while the genuine parts are white gold. This difference is more subtle than the big hole coronet but noticeable if you look closely and under bright lights. The JJ dial and hands aren't white gold either, but they are white gold plated. While it wouldn’t be ideal for touchable parts like the case or bracelet, it’s good enough under the protection of the crystal.
After almost a year of wearing, you might wonder how the gen balance and other gen parts work. Here is the answer:
The outlook part of this franken project is almost done. I'm still on the hunt for a genuine bezel, but there's no rush. The next upgrade will be the train wheels, escapement, hammer, and some springs and yokes, likely later this year or early 2025.
You might be wondering why I chose the JJ dial. Here's why: first, the coronet. When I bought the Clean 116500, it was a V3. V3 is a good version, possibly the best out-of-the-box rep of the 116500 black dial, and they improved the dial by getting rid of the "fat subdials" from the previous version. But there's a catch: the coronet - the infamous "big hole crown". I have to say, in daily wear, this is never a problem because the natural position of the chrono second-hand covers it nicely. But still, the problem exists.
I couldn't take a good shot of the JJ crown so I tuned the exposure of the photo to highlight the coronet. The JJ dial fixed this beautifully. Another issue with the OEM Clean V3 is that the coronet, hour markers, and hands are stainless steel, while the genuine parts are white gold. This difference is more subtle than the big hole coronet but noticeable if you look closely and under bright lights. The JJ dial and hands aren't white gold either, but they are white gold plated. While it wouldn’t be ideal for touchable parts like the case or bracelet, it’s good enough under the protection of the crystal.
After almost a year of wearing, you might wonder how the gen balance and other gen parts work. Here is the answer:
The outlook part of this franken project is almost done. I'm still on the hunt for a genuine bezel, but there's no rush. The next upgrade will be the train wheels, escapement, hammer, and some springs and yokes, likely later this year or early 2025.
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Some good data on the TG right there
When you swap the Bezel I'd be up for buying the CF one if you want to sell it
When you swap the Bezel I'd be up for buying the CF one if you want to sell it
Thank you!Some good data on the TG right there
When you swap the Bezel I'd be up for buying the CF one if you want to sell it
Sure! The CF bezel is also a nice one.
I think I forgot some (Vase)lume shots of my new dial and hands, so here it is:
Over the past few days, I've been checking out the newly upgraded rep. I've used a loupe, no loupe, natural light, spotlights, indoor lights—you name it. I've noticed something interesting. I can't really capture it well in a photo, but I took a shot anyway.
When the new dial is under direct, bright lights, like the LED spotlight right above my desk, the subdials look a bit thicker. They're not as thick as the so-called "fat subdials" on previous OEM dials, but they appear about <0.1mm thicker. To check if they were actually thicker, I used some digital surface measurement tools, but they weren't. After a closer look, I figured out why: the outer rim of the JJ dial's subdial mimics the gen dial, which has a thin but shimmering outer rim, reflective from both sides. The Clean V3 dial also has this feature, but it's much subtler than the JJ dial. When under bright lights like a spotlight, the glistening rim makes the subdial look thicker—it's just an illusion.
Another interesting thing I noticed: in some earlier discussions about the 116500, there were debates about the subdials being "too shiny" and how the gen doesn't look like that. After experimenting with different lights, I found that both the JJ dial and the Clean dial are more sensitive to the "whiteness" of the light than the gen dial. Specifically, the rep dials tend to be shinier under more yellowish light (like 2700k-3000k). If the light is whiter, like cool white (4100k) or daylight (6500k), no matter how strong the light is, it looks less shiny.
I hope that in the future when people complain about the rep black 116500 dials being "too shiny," they'll see this little observation and save some breath
Over the past few days, I've been checking out the newly upgraded rep. I've used a loupe, no loupe, natural light, spotlights, indoor lights—you name it. I've noticed something interesting. I can't really capture it well in a photo, but I took a shot anyway.
When the new dial is under direct, bright lights, like the LED spotlight right above my desk, the subdials look a bit thicker. They're not as thick as the so-called "fat subdials" on previous OEM dials, but they appear about <0.1mm thicker. To check if they were actually thicker, I used some digital surface measurement tools, but they weren't. After a closer look, I figured out why: the outer rim of the JJ dial's subdial mimics the gen dial, which has a thin but shimmering outer rim, reflective from both sides. The Clean V3 dial also has this feature, but it's much subtler than the JJ dial. When under bright lights like a spotlight, the glistening rim makes the subdial look thicker—it's just an illusion.
Another interesting thing I noticed: in some earlier discussions about the 116500, there were debates about the subdials being "too shiny" and how the gen doesn't look like that. After experimenting with different lights, I found that both the JJ dial and the Clean dial are more sensitive to the "whiteness" of the light than the gen dial. Specifically, the rep dials tend to be shinier under more yellowish light (like 2700k-3000k). If the light is whiter, like cool white (4100k) or daylight (6500k), no matter how strong the light is, it looks less shiny.
I hope that in the future when people complain about the rep black 116500 dials being "too shiny," they'll see this little observation and save some breath
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