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My Molotow Cocktail with springs and balls!

KilowattHour

Getting To Know The Place
18/4/19
85
22
8
I have a Noob V7 BLNR. Needless to say the insert markers and numbers look pretty bad on it. Worse than they look on V9, but V7 had a more reliable simpler movement and was much cheaper. Right out of the box numbers just had that unappealing dirty white color, with some darker blemishes, so I decided to do something about it. I tried Oil based Silver Metallic Sharpie first, and then Molotow 227HS - here's my experience with both:

I got the oil-based ultra fine tip silver metallic Sharpie (I think it's important to get the oil based one, as it's more weather resistant). Applied it by using the tip of the marker to draw into the numbers and dots. I thought I would avoid the paint spilling around the numbers this way, but even with the ultra fine tip this wasn't really possible - it was spilling around the numbers all the time, so I just went with it. Filled in all the numbers and dots, let it dry overnight. Next morning, I tried wiping off the excess paint with the wet toilet wipes like I've seen someone suggest doing for the molotow marker. To my surprise, it did not really work. Oil based sharpie seems to be a real trooper in terms of rubbing/weather resistance. I could barely remove anything even by scratching with my nail through the wet wipe. Same deal with the paper towel that I dipped into some water. It just couldn't remove it with water, which I thought was a real positive. In the end, I had to use the q-tip doused in rubbing alcohol (70% did the job fine). By lightly touching the bezel, I tried to make sure the alcohol doesn't get into the numbers and dissolve the paint that was there. It worked pretty well, but I could see that the top triangle and some numbers were not quite smooth and even, so I did another coat on them to try and even them out. It mostly worked fine, and I was much happier with how it looked now compared to the original look. Still, the problem with the Sharpie is that the metallic particles are quite large, and it's visible even with the naked eye in the sun - and very easily visible in all the macro photos. I was expecting this, it kinda sucks, but I still think overall look was much better than the dirty white I had before.

On the photos, Molotow paint seemed to have much nicer, softer look, with notably smaller metallic particles, which I of course liked. Ordered the 4mm tip 227HS from Ebay, and when it arrived, I removed the sharpie using q-tip with the same 70% rubbing alcohol. Then I applied the Molotow, using the method described here - make a pool of paint on a plastic surface, dab the q-tip into it, and paint around the insert. This worked incredibly well, the coverage was so smooth and even, and I applied maybe two coats one right after another, all within the 5 minute timespan. Let it dry overnight, and next morning I tried removing the excess paint again with the wet toilet wipe. To my surprise, Molotow removed *very* easily with the wet wipe, and based on this, I think it might be much less weather resistant than Sharpie. I'm not sure if these wet wipes have any alcohol in them - I'll check when I get back home - but they were barely effective against Oil Sharpie. In the end, Molotow does look noticeably better, but I do worry that I'll have to reapply it more often than I would Sharpie. Then again, I never really expose any watches to water, and rarely have to touch the GMT bezel, so we'll see how long it lasts. I also don't think applying multiple coats is necessary. It might make it more weather resistant, but it would almost for sure not be possible to keep this smooth and even finish like I have now.

So in the end:
Oil Sharpie: Probably more weather resistant - water doesn't do anything to it, must be removed with alcohol. Looks much better than stock Noob V7, but larger metallic particles give it a harsh look, especially in the sun.
Molotow: Smaller metallic particles make for much softer, smoother, more gen look. However, it's easily removed with wet toilet wipes (almost worryingly easy) so I'm not sure how long before I'll have to touch it up. I'm keeping the Molotow for sure though - this look just can't be denied.

Will post photos in a couple of hours. I see that most people have applied Molotow to their Subs, so it will be nice to have photos of the GMT2 also.
 
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KilowattHour

Getting To Know The Place
18/4/19
85
22
8
Here are the photos, sorry for the wait. They are from different lighting conditions, indoor and outdoor. You can see that even painting over it doesn't quite eliminate the divide on the number 6, but it's not nearly as visible to a naked eye. I also did a quick test trying to remove the Molotow marker from a plastic surface just with a wet paper towel. It wasn't that easy to remove it, but it was possible (it was practically impossible to remove oil sharpie this way). I also checked, my wet toilet wipes are alcohol free, but they do have some mild chemical solvents in it. They remove Molotow with ease, but have a much harder time against sharpie.
Hopefully Molotow sticks better to a rougher, textured surface where the numbers and indices are, than it does to polished surfaces.

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cmf959

Getting To Know The Place
4/9/19
60
39
0
This guide is awesome thanks KJ2020.

My noob v9 already had paint coming off after a month and was thinking about molotow anyway.

Heres mine before and after (the first pic has much brighter lighting but you can see where the original paint has come off the numbers and indices):




 
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alexcast

Active Member
23/6/19
224
172
43
Does anyone knows where can I find the balls and springs? Amazon links are not available right now


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KJ2020

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Does anyone knows where can I find the balls and springs? Amazon links are not available right now


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Look on Ebay for stainless steel balls, there are several companies that sell them. You need 1.5mm

Also look on Ebay for the mini springs.
 

alexcast

Active Member
23/6/19
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Thanks much appreciated


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KJ2020

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Re-post from another thread

When applying the paint from the Posca pen, tap the dispenser tip into and around the marker cutout so the paint flows freely to fill the cutout and spillover some. Don't try to paint with the tip. Let the pool of paint dry completely, then I do an second coat. Let it sit overnight. Then I use an alcohol dampened Zeiss lens wipe pulled taut over a finger to swipe away the excess. Very easy mod that leaves paint perfectly smooth in the cutouts.

Wet
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Dry
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Wiped
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So I decided to do my RXF Sub using this method of flooding the markers and letting them dry completely. Both my Posca pens were nearly empty so I used a Molotow Metallic silver. This is the first time I tried the marker flood method with Molotow, previously I had applied it with a brush. Not only was this extremely fast (less than 5 mins), but it dried more uniformly than anything else I've ever used.

This looks great and will become my go to method for painting or touching up inserts that are installed. I will still use spray paint on uninstalled inserts since enamel is more durable than the Molotow/Posca acrylic. Acrylic is water resistant once cured, so it can last quite a while if you don't get your insert dirty all the time.

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https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/9493838-kj2020-paint-mod
 

cmf959

Getting To Know The Place
4/9/19
60
39
0
Thanks for this KJ2020 . I've followed your brushing method using the molotow paint pen and I have refreshed my noob v9 insert every few months or so but have to try this method instead. Out of interest, do you recommend the Posca over the molotow pen?
 

fredflintstone

Active Member
5/4/20
391
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Any idea where the springs can be found now? The links at the start do not work anymore.

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KJ2020

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Thanks for this KJ2020 . I've followed your brushing method using the molotow paint pen and I have refreshed my noob v9 insert every few months or so but have to try this method instead. Out of interest, do you recommend the Posca over the molotow pen?

Posca and Molotow are both acrylic so the only difference would be in the paint supplier's mixture, which could have batch variations. Both brands have options on pen tip thickness, for the "marker flooding" technique, I find the very fat tip Molotow pen to be perfect. The tip action on the Molotow is better too, I think. A single depression of the tip dispenses a perfect volume of paint to fill most marker cutouts. I nudge the pool around a little to get a uniform bulbous overflow. I've done a ton of paint mods and this last one is noticeably better so I'm sticking with this technique. Until now I've accepted that paint mods would look a little coarse in macro closeups because they still look great at arm's length. But this result stands up well to even macro shots and loupe inspection. Just be careful wiping the excess off. The Zeiss lens wipes I use are particularly good because they are slightly stiff and hold a flat shape well. You can also fold them them in half to create a double thick edge that when damp with alcohol is perfect for cleaning paint off the perimeter of the pearl cup without gouging into the recessed triangle. These results just blew me away, wow. I've had paint mods last over two years now by keeping my inserts clean and dry and never touching them.

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alexcast

Active Member
23/6/19
224
172
43
Lovely work and patience

Where did you buy the paint?

How did you remove the pearl?

Thanks


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KJ2020

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