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Lets look at this interesting 16610
- Thread starter HulkyGalore
- Start date
Thanks for asking wisedennis, I have worn it more than most others since finishing it, time keeping is great, and it has caused a few conversations too!
For some reason, I like it a lot despite having some other "better" watches. I got the bracelet edges finished with some fine papers and it feels good, sized perfectly after some playing around with different pin positions. I changed the clasp and the pip/insert too, since last posting a picture. Not bad for a 20 year old watch with new insides!
I am still puzzled about the crystal wondering if it is a genuine one due to the "S" in the etched crown. Doesn't really matter, part of the history of it.
Here it what it looks like at the moment:
Perhaps a gen service crystal ?Thanks for asking wisedennis, I have worn it more than most others since finishing it, time keeping is great, and it has caused a few conversations too!
For some reason, I like it a lot despite having some other "better" watches. I got the bracelet edges finished with some fine papers and it feels good, sized perfectly after some playing around with different pin positions. I changed the clasp and the pip/insert too, since last posting a picture. Not bad for a 20 year old watch with new insides!
I am still puzzled about the crystal wondering if it is a genuine one due to the "S" in the etched crown. Doesn't really matter, part of the history of it.
Here it what it looks like at the moment:
This watch has been great, but I noticed that I have to wind it more often than expected. Having thought the VR movement might have a non optimal mainspring or some other issue, I only just realised when shaking the watch in a quiet room, that there is friction between the rotor and the caseback. It must be the thin spacer I used to centralise the stem in the case! So I will see if I can improve the clearance, maybe by using a thicker seal before sanding metal... I should have considered the simple things first!!!
I’m going to try this with the old mbw I have , think it’s a 2008 ish model , works like a dream and took a gen insert
I’ve got a new Clarke’s crystal for it ,
It would be good to see this = and to compare your 2008 to this 2004 one. Cheers!
Regarding the case back restricting the rotor, I had expected to see obvious marks but I couldn't.
I used a sharpie to coat the inside of the case back in various places. I started with the outer rim, no rubbing. Then the inside conical bit but nothing. Finally I coated the flat inner case back and I saw a small amount of circular scratches in the region of the 16610 marking. See the 2nd picture.
I really don't want to polish the case back and affect the printing so I am considering getting the rotor off and removing some material from that. Hopefully it is easy to remove. I actually have a spare SH3135 that I swapped out from another watch as it kept stopping, maybe I should try that rotor just in case it works, before sanding.
I used a sharpie to coat the inside of the case back in various places. I started with the outer rim, no rubbing. Then the inside conical bit but nothing. Finally I coated the flat inner case back and I saw a small amount of circular scratches in the region of the 16610 marking. See the 2nd picture.
I really don't want to polish the case back and affect the printing so I am considering getting the rotor off and removing some material from that. Hopefully it is easy to remove. I actually have a spare SH3135 that I swapped out from another watch as it kept stopping, maybe I should try that rotor just in case it works, before sanding.
It’s a 16613 not a 16610 but old school mbw , got a 1665 mbw as well which is pretty old
Regarding the case back restricting the rotor, I had expected to see obvious marks but I couldn't.
I used a sharpie to coat the inside of the case back in various places. I started with the outer rim, no rubbing. Then the inside conical bit but nothing. Finally I coated the flat inner case back and I saw a small amount of circular scratches in the region of the 16610 marking. See the 2nd picture.
I really don't want to polish the case back and affect the printing so I am considering getting the rotor off and removing some material from that. Hopefully it is easy to remove. I actually have a spare SH3135 that I swapped out from another watch as it kept stopping, maybe I should try that rotor just in case it works, before sanding.
have you been playing with this sub recently?
Wisedennis, sorry I took so long to reply!
I ended up sanding the rotor with fine papers to create more clearance which solved the issue and now it doesn't need winding. I took the rotor off to do this using fine emery paper (400, the 1000 to smooth it off) on a very flat surface. I also took some material off at the edges where the angle is but not much. It would have been easier to remove metal from the inside of the caseback, but the words "Made in Gelena Shitnerand" have a charm and sense of fun that I don't want to lose, even though they are not visible!
I still wear this watch a lot despite having a lot of "better" ones and a few people have asked me what year is it from, I always say 2004 because it is the truth
Wisedennis, sorry I took so long to reply!
I ended up sanding the rotor with fine papers to create more clearance which solved the issue and now it doesn't need winding. I took the rotor off to do this using fine emery paper (400, the 1000 to smooth it off) on a very flat surface. I also took some material off at the edges where the angle is but not much. It would have been easier to remove metal from the inside of the caseback, but the words "Made in Gelena Shitnerand" have a charm and sense of fun that I don't want to lose, even though they are not visible!
I still wear this watch a lot despite having a lot of "better" ones and a few people have asked me what year is it from, I always say 2004 because it is the truth
That’s honest and sarcastic