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Lets look at this interesting 16610
- Thread starter HulkyGalore
- Start date
What I was surprised to see, was the S in the inside of the crown.
I also noticed that the crown has a nice feature, when the little spring is released, it engages the stem and turning the crown turns the stem. When it is compressed (like when pushing in to screw on the crown) then it releases and freewheels to avoid winding when tightening (if that makes sense). I am not sure if this is standard or not, but some other crowns don't have that.
Meantime, the watch gets final assembly soon, need to cut the stem, followed by an assessment as to whether the crown height is now an issue or not. Cheers!
I also noticed that the crown has a nice feature, when the little spring is released, it engages the stem and turning the crown turns the stem. When it is compressed (like when pushing in to screw on the crown) then it releases and freewheels to avoid winding when tightening (if that makes sense). I am not sure if this is standard or not, but some other crowns don't have that.
Meantime, the watch gets final assembly soon, need to cut the stem, followed by an assessment as to whether the crown height is now an issue or not. Cheers!
The S inside the crown means service crystal. When you send a gen Rolex to get serviced and they swap out the crystal it will look like that.
Thank you, I have just been researching this. So does it mean that the watch had a replacement at some point or could a rep have been made with such a crystal etching. Very interesting because I have seen lots of discussion about etching types for gens and reps but not seen anything about a rep having such a crystal etched crown. Cheers - I am learning more all the time through this!
Can't see a factory putting in the effort to put the S inside the crown. Maybe one of the previous owners of the watch sourced a gen service crystal for the watch. I am sure there many member here that could let you know if that is a gen crystal. There is a gen crystal to compare with yours. And I am enjoying the process you are going through here on this thread. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Great, thank you for that picture to compare the crown from a gen. If it helps here is a closeup of the cyclops. I am in the middle of finishing off the watch and aside from some more questions about the insert and pip, it is looking good - just need to finish that stem between jobs (and posting haha...)
Assembled, finally! Here are a few pics and in some, I corrected the date. Having said that for some angles the date seems to disappear anyway. I am pleased with the outcome, the stem appears not to be an issue at all, I can't feel it being stressed - but I did spend ages getting the stem just long enough to get full adjustment but not so long that it will be under tension with the crown screwed down fully. Over time I don't want half the stem stuck in the watch if it broke!
I will have some questions about pips and inserts later, this one will do for now.
I will have some questions about pips and inserts later, this one will do for now.
Looks good. I would like to know if the crystal is gen because that would be a bonus for you.
Great job, I will be doing something similar soon so this was a nice preview of what I'm up against.
Most people put a spacer between the dial and movement. But now that these 3135 clones are more reliable I can see this becoming more common.
To make take up the gap needed in my build I was pondering using a few drops of two part epoxy and then sanding down until I reach the height/spacer needed. Or adding 0.1mm between dial and case, then 0.1mm between dial and movement to try to keep the sunken datewheel look to a minimun.
I was also considering adding a gen datewheel over top of the rep datewheel as an overlay to raise the date back up flush with the dial but I don't have all the parts yet to get any measurements, also as I see from your previous post, where the hands mount may end up too low.
Most people put a spacer between the dial and movement. But now that these 3135 clones are more reliable I can see this becoming more common.
To make take up the gap needed in my build I was pondering using a few drops of two part epoxy and then sanding down until I reach the height/spacer needed. Or adding 0.1mm between dial and case, then 0.1mm between dial and movement to try to keep the sunken datewheel look to a minimun.
I was also considering adding a gen datewheel over top of the rep datewheel as an overlay to raise the date back up flush with the dial but I don't have all the parts yet to get any measurements, also as I see from your previous post, where the hands mount may end up too low.
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That is a really good idea. In my case, there was not much to worry about after the small (0.14mm or so) height change, it might even be more like 0.1mm after compression of the masking tape. The stem is so easy to operate it might have worked without, but clearance is needed for the crown insert into the tube. The other issue is the more you add in depth, aside from the sunken date is you lose gap where the mounting tabs go. I was lucky and may improve on those specially made tabs, although as ugly as they are, they work perfectly!
For the dial gap it was not noticeable and even looking closely, if I didn't know I wouldn't notice it. What I did notice was the slightly rough edge of the rehaut, maybe this needs sorting at some point, on the other hand that is getting obsessive!!
Why do people seem to like 16610 watches? Well I welcome other people's views, judging by the RAF thread and "WTB" posts there are plenty of fans. In my particular situation, the attraction came about from my first ever rep from 90's that I wore and wore out, did all manner of activities, (including scuba diving!!!) fell off bikes into the dirt, etc. I am so used to looking at that case style its very familiar. I wore it for years.
When it broke or needed a new battery (yes!) I lost the back plate. When looking for a replacement some months ago I discovered the world of reps, this place, and all you good people.
Now I have "replaced" it with something more accurate especially if the crystal is what it could be. (comments?)
Here is a picture of the old rep, it still looks the same. It has a lot of sentimental value, but accuracy of design (datejust? sub? haha) and monetary value, not much!
When it broke or needed a new battery (yes!) I lost the back plate. When looking for a replacement some months ago I discovered the world of reps, this place, and all you good people.
Now I have "replaced" it with something more accurate especially if the crystal is what it could be. (comments?)
Here is a picture of the old rep, it still looks the same. It has a lot of sentimental value, but accuracy of design (datejust? sub? haha) and monetary value, not much!
It certainly does get obsessive, and the more you learn, the more you see these tiny details.
I remember in the past looking at a sales thread and other members were commenting that they could see a gap between the rehaut and dial on a watch for sale, I have no idea how they spotted it.
I was told when doing this conversion from 2836 to 2824 to expect to need 0.2mm of spacer, so your measurements are good.
Keep up the good work, I am sure there are others besides me following along. Even if there are other threads with similar info it's nice to see more up to date threads with these newer movements and good photos documenting the process of jamming a 3135/2824 into a 2836 case.
I remember in the past looking at a sales thread and other members were commenting that they could see a gap between the rehaut and dial on a watch for sale, I have no idea how they spotted it.
I was told when doing this conversion from 2836 to 2824 to expect to need 0.2mm of spacer, so your measurements are good.
Keep up the good work, I am sure there are others besides me following along. Even if there are other threads with similar info it's nice to see more up to date threads with these newer movements and good photos documenting the process of jamming a 3135/2824 into a 2836 case.
Well, the original movement / dial / hands / insert may well find themselves in a 2824 case so I may also have to learn if it is possible to do it the other way round. I guess creating a gap is easier than losing a gap, but will find out. Perhaps that other way round (shoe-horning a 2836) may force the tidying up of a rehaut! Cheers!
I am really curious about this. I may get a better picture of mine later, to make a better comparison with your picture. However experience is better than a single picture comparison, so I welcome any more comments from anyone who might know.
In the meantime I am going to wear the watch and check out the timing of this VR movement, to see how good it is out of the box with no adjustments.
I really like this VR movement - so far only a few seconds out, will check it over some days but I estimate under 10s over 24hr and all I did was wind it before starting to wear it. However, that old quartz 90's sub is only a few seconds out after a few months, nevermind a day, and that has been sitting in a drawer. That is the standard to which I should compare all my automatics 
Me too, not that it really matters I guess. The cyclops is really clear and the date is very easy to see.
Update: I have changed the insert because the existing one is not perfectly fitting, although I liked the pip on it. And the scratch, which adds to the slight relic look of a watch from the late 90s/early 2000's, was nice.
With the new insert, whilst it seats properly, the pip isn't right, so I am on the hunt for the right pip and trying to find a cheap but period correct pip. One thing I thought about was rafflesdials dial markers for the 14060/16610 which are almost perfect but flat not domed. Any recommendations on this?
Do you have a lot of meaningful memories with it ? I think that’s why! I traded my CF 116610 but I travelled aboard with it.. now I have been missed that particular watch too, perhaps it’s because it has been linked with that piece of memoryWhy do people seem to like 16610 watches? Well I welcome other people's views, judging by the RAF thread and "WTB" posts there are plenty of fans. In my particular situation, the attraction came about from my first ever rep from 90's that I wore and wore out, did all manner of activities, (including scuba diving!!!) fell off bikes into the dirt, etc. I am so used to looking at that case style its very familiar. I wore it for years.
When it broke or needed a new battery (yes!) I lost the back plate. When looking for a replacement some months ago I discovered the world of reps, this place, and all you good people.
Now I have "replaced" it with something more accurate especially if the crystal is what it could be. (comments?)
Here is a picture of the old rep, it still looks the same. It has a lot of sentimental value, but accuracy of design (datejust? sub? haha) and monetary value, not much!
Assembled, finally! Here are a few pics and in some, I corrected the date. Having said that for some angles the date seems to disappear anyway. I am pleased with the outcome, the stem appears not to be an issue at all, I can't feel it being stressed - but I did spend ages getting the stem just long enough to get full adjustment but not so long that it will be under tension with the crown screwed down fully. Over time I don't want half the stem stuck in the watch if it broke!
I will have some questions about pips and inserts later, this one will do for now.
What’s inside? 2836 or 3135?