It’s the 3135, some adjustments to dial depth and spacer thickness to enable it to work.What’s inside? 2836 or 3135?
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Lets look at this interesting 16610
- Thread starter HulkyGalore
- Start date
I have worn this watch for a week or slightly more. It kept good time initially, then started acting strangely, sometimes slow sometimes fast, but most recently running very fast. I haven't (yet) got any timing equipment and in my short time of messing with watches, have only made basic adjustments to rate.
I decided to use my cheap de-magnetiser and have found that within a few hours of doing that it appears to be behaving again. I thought I would do this before attempting to adjust the rate, (if it still needs it) and without the right kit I can't check or adjust the beat. I have been travelling this last week through airports etc and wonder if that could be a chance for the watch to be magnetised, or maybe this movement is vulnerable to it?
Other than that I am enjoying this "old" watch. It is nice to look at.
I decided to use my cheap de-magnetiser and have found that within a few hours of doing that it appears to be behaving again. I thought I would do this before attempting to adjust the rate, (if it still needs it) and without the right kit I can't check or adjust the beat. I have been travelling this last week through airports etc and wonder if that could be a chance for the watch to be magnetised, or maybe this movement is vulnerable to it?
Other than that I am enjoying this "old" watch. It is nice to look at.
I have an update - the timing issue was nothing to do with magnetism or rate, it turned out to be that the minute hand was loose! I took the watch apart to sort it, I mustn't have pressed it on properly the first time. I had planned to be careful with the second hand, but must have been too careful with the minute hand.
Anyway, when I was putting one of the retaining screws back in I touched the little plate with the serial on it and it came off very easily, there was a tiny dab of dried glue on the back of it. Good thing it happened really, because it could have come off in use and ended up in the watch, possibly damaging the movement.
I cleaned it up with acetone and used a more permanent Loctite (don't use this for crown stems!!), only the tiniest amount is needed, to prevent it coming off in future. So long as the metal surfaces are clean it works very well. When it is dry I will test it to make sure it is secure otherwise I might just leave it off before putting the back on.
Here are some pics including the type of loctite I used:
Anyway, when I was putting one of the retaining screws back in I touched the little plate with the serial on it and it came off very easily, there was a tiny dab of dried glue on the back of it. Good thing it happened really, because it could have come off in use and ended up in the watch, possibly damaging the movement.
I cleaned it up with acetone and used a more permanent Loctite (don't use this for crown stems!!), only the tiniest amount is needed, to prevent it coming off in future. So long as the metal surfaces are clean it works very well. When it is dry I will test it to make sure it is secure otherwise I might just leave it off before putting the back on.
Here are some pics including the type of loctite I used:
I took the dial and hands off the original 2836 and am thinking of putting it in a different 16610 case with a hulk dial and matching aluminium insert. With a modern strap with glidelock, it could be an old school, but modern daily beater. I saw a picture of this combination somewhere and quite liked it.
This is the front of the 2836. There is an spacer between it and the dial, so could this be an overlay? I haven't got any other 2836's to compare it to:
This is the front of the 2836. There is an spacer between it and the dial, so could this be an overlay? I haven't got any other 2836's to compare it to:
I was considering the same hulk 16610 using this dial.
Interesting! This is an old MBW case- like you said- from 2005. Monarch Polfy, Gelena Shiterand was used on MBW cases. I don't think a gen crystal would fit on these watches. Bezel assembly is non-gen also. The 2836-2 movement is a swiss eta- clones were not around in 2005. The top movement ring is a standard eta part. You did a good job fitting the 3135 movement in the 2836-2 case. 10-12 years ago the rep mfrs realized a 2824-2 more closely approximated the 3135 movement- especially with the stem positioning. The WM9, V3 was the first 16610 rep to use the 2824-2 movement- giving the rep a better crown position towards the top of the case.
Back in the old days we'd swap out the rep pearl in the bezel insert for a Watchmaterial.com pearl-this is something BK came up with. BK had a whole series of mods that he would make to make the noobmariners look more authentic. Noobmariners came out after the MBW 16610s around 2006-7. Then WM9, Taiwan Best, TC, JK....
Back in the old days we'd swap out the rep pearl in the bezel insert for a Watchmaterial.com pearl-this is something BK came up with. BK had a whole series of mods that he would make to make the noobmariners look more authentic. Noobmariners came out after the MBW 16610s around 2006-7. Then WM9, Taiwan Best, TC, JK....
Thanks a lot for posting this. I have searched and had a thought that the 2836 was well made, and possibly genuine.
I am very pleased with the watch, and have managed to tighten up the bezel sufficiently by bending the metal springs on the circular ring that sits underneath it. I am currently trying different inserts and pips - in fact I had even considered buying some 16610 hour markers and filling in one with a off-white lume, to make it domed but maybe that is going too far.
For the crystal, I am still intrigued by the service dial logo, I haver some better pictures of it maybe I will post one. Perhaps the watch that was originally replicated, had a service dial on it, for this run of watches. So the logo with the S got replicated too. Or maybe a gen did fit with the right gasket. Who knows, I don't intend to remove it as its very clear and the dial looks good under it.
The history in your post is extremely interesting, as I had a rep from the 90's but only discovered this world, in the last few months. It looks like a lot of development went on since that time to get to the point where we are today, so it is nice to have a bit of history, and if I ever wanted to I could revert back as I have all the original bits. Having said that, the 2836 will soon be driving another watch... Cheers!
Meantime - here is the watch with the current insert and pip. Good - for now
For anyone interested, (thanks to alligoat inspiring me to look!), I did some more research which tells me that MBW stands for Marias Best Watch found in this thread:
forum.replica-watch.info
And some more dated (2007), but useful and informative thread on the watches, look here:
forum.replica-watch.info
I am being cautious that information from 2007 in terms of what was available at the time, may be superseded. Still, based on the RAF pictures, and TC pictures I have seen, there are only a few 16610 candidates for realistic builds. Looks like I "stumbled" on this one as well as the RAF dial and hands sold to me, togeter enabling this build. Cheers!
Help me identify if this is the MBW case
Hi fellas, I got this watch recently from a member who got it from here: https://www.repgeek.com/rep-watch-trade/288964-nicely-modded-mbk-5513-aka-steve-mcqueen.html Some members wrote that the case itself could be cartel, which I don't believe it is. Dial as well, sure it could be hard to...
forum.replica-watch.info
And some more dated (2007), but useful and informative thread on the watches, look here:
MBW 16610
Hey guys, a fellow Member offered me a MBW 16610 for a pretty good price. As I am not too experienced with Maria's Best Watches, I have some questions though. How can I spot that it's really a MBW? Does the 16610 version allow genuine 16610 parts, just like the vintage models? How come, that I...
forum.replica-watch.info
I am being cautious that information from 2007 in terms of what was available at the time, may be superseded. Still, based on the RAF pictures, and TC pictures I have seen, there are only a few 16610 candidates for realistic builds. Looks like I "stumbled" on this one as well as the RAF dial and hands sold to me, togeter enabling this build. Cheers!
This is a late model MBW which was converted to gen bezel construction. Circa 2010- came from Chris at Eurotimez. I'm pretty sure the pearl was from watchmaterial.com. Those pearls are definitely worth the $15-20. Pop the old pearl, maybe enlarge the hole in the insert with a knife and glue in the new pearl.
In the day we used to call your pearl a zit- like a pimple!
Ok you got a deal - I will get rid of the zit! I have been looking for a source of more period correct ones, thanks.
This is a late model MBW which was converted to gen bezel construction. Circa 2010- came from Chris at Eurotimez. I'm pretty sure the pearl was from watchmaterial.com. Those pearls are definitely worth the $15-20. Pop the old pearl, maybe enlarge the hole in the insert with a knife and glue in the new pearl.
In the day we used to call your pearl a zit- like a pimple!
Regarding the conversion to gen bezel construction. This really interests me. Can you tell me more about it? Is it a risk that mine might not fit a gen (or gen type, ideally cheaper!) bezel? I don't know if mine is a late model being 5 years earlier than that one. Cheers!
I did some more digging, and on this page found this text, copied in case the link disappears since it is from 2013. It is consistent with my watch originally being purchased in Thailand. It is interesting that it states the bezel construction is gen like (which it isn't) and that it can fit gen crystals (maybe, unknown).
Text of interest, from the link above:
Once upon a time, there was a German bloke called Maria. He lived in Thailand and bought replica Rolexes (and other watches) from a stall in the MBK centre, Bangkok.
Mah Boon Krong Shopping Centre (MBK) Some of these Rolex replicas (mostly the vintage 1665 and 1680 models) attained legendary status when people realised they were made the same way as the genuines.
Meaning the bezel construction was a 1:1 copy of the genuine version. What this meant was that people could fit genuine Rolex acrylic crystals and bezel inserts.
When Maria sold these watches, he did so under the name of Maria's Best Watch, which itself took on a mythical quality as he was a bit of a belligerent fellow.
Not wanting to deal with some people, adding a rarity to the whole proceedings.
When he stopped selling the watches on the forums, he had a friend called Lucky who sold them in his place under the MBW banner.
Lucky later ran off with a few members' money and disappeared.
Modern MBW/MBK nowadays can only be sourced by Narikaa and offcourse he is trusted!
We are Legend
Proudly collected 3 Legends of Rolex replica history. Old school Marias Best Watch (MBW) 1680 BK WatchMaker9 (WM9) 16613 David Wong (DW) Gold 6263 Once upon a time, there was a German bloke called Maria. He lived in Thailand and bought replica Rolexes (and other watches) from a stall in the MBK c...
www.rwg.bz
Text of interest, from the link above:
Once upon a time, there was a German bloke called Maria. He lived in Thailand and bought replica Rolexes (and other watches) from a stall in the MBK centre, Bangkok.
Mah Boon Krong Shopping Centre (MBK) Some of these Rolex replicas (mostly the vintage 1665 and 1680 models) attained legendary status when people realised they were made the same way as the genuines.
Meaning the bezel construction was a 1:1 copy of the genuine version. What this meant was that people could fit genuine Rolex acrylic crystals and bezel inserts.
When Maria sold these watches, he did so under the name of Maria's Best Watch, which itself took on a mythical quality as he was a bit of a belligerent fellow.
Not wanting to deal with some people, adding a rarity to the whole proceedings.
When he stopped selling the watches on the forums, he had a friend called Lucky who sold them in his place under the MBW banner.
Lucky later ran off with a few members' money and disappeared.
Modern MBW/MBK nowadays can only be sourced by Narikaa and offcourse he is trusted!
WOW! You're definitely digging up ancient history! The 5513/5512/1680/1665 MBWs were great- gen like bezel construction, good cases, dials were ok. Sure they needed some mods, but what the heck. The MBW 16610 wasn't bad but the WM9 was an improvement with better bezel construction.
At that time I built a 16800 franken with a noobmariner case with drilled lugholes- I finally got an ST 3035 case and made a nicer watch with a 2836-2 and a gen relumed matte dial.
This is a DW I picked up before he went rogue
At that time I built a 16800 franken with a noobmariner case with drilled lugholes- I finally got an ST 3035 case and made a nicer watch with a 2836-2 and a gen relumed matte dial.
This is a DW I picked up before he went rogue
OI812
Active Member
- 17/3/06
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I've got a 7031/32 DW. It might well be my favorite watch I've ever owned, frank or gen. It's a shame the guy flaked....WOW! You're definitely digging up ancient history! The 5513/5512/1680/1665 MBWs were great- gen like bezel construction, good cases, dials were ok. Sure they needed some mods, but what the heck. The MBW 16610 wasn't bad but the WM9 was an improvement with better bezel construction.
At that time I built a 16800 franken with a noobmariner case with drilled lugholes- I finally got an ST 3035 case and made a nicer watch with a 2836-2 and a gen relumed matte dial.
This is a DW I picked up before he went rogue
Regarding the conversion to gen bezel construction. This really interests me. Can you tell me more about it? Is it a risk that mine might not fit a gen (or gen type, ideally cheaper!) bezel? I don't know if mine is a late model being 5 years earlier than that one. Cheers!
I wouldn't think an early MBW 16610 could be converted to gen bezel construction. You could buy a 25-295 C2 crystal- say from Clark's and see if it works on the case with the gasket tight and firm. Then you have to find the crystal retention ring, the flat washer, the click spring and finally the bezel itself. Startime Supply has the parts as does WSO990. But getting the aftermarket parts to match up and fit is a job in and of itself. It might be easier to just buy a RAF 16610 and go from there.
Don't know if AliExpress has decent 16610 cases with gen like const. You might look there.
I wouldn't think an early MBW 16610 could be converted to gen bezel construction. You could buy a 25-295 C2 crystal- say from Clark's and see if it works on the case with the gasket tight and firm. Then you have to find the crystal retention ring, the flat washer, the click spring and finally the bezel itself. Startime Supply has the parts as does WSO990. But getting the aftermarket parts to match up and fit is a job in and of itself. It might be easier to just buy a RAF 16610 and go from there.
Don't know if AliExpress has decent 16610 cases with gen like const. You might look there.
That DW looks great... do you still have the 16800 or a picture of it? I am really enjoying all this rep history. When I joined the forum relatively recently after trying to restore a really old (early 90s) quartz watch, I soon realised that things have moved on. It is great to see some of the transition, to where we are today.
Regarding your following post about the bezel, thanks for advising how to approach this. I think I will leave it as is- apart from getting the pip just right, and just wear it for what it is. I will keep my eye out for another case at some point, but isn't this part of the hobby, waiting for that ultimate build which will of course be the last one?
Cheers!
This is the 16800- gen relumed dial by Ziggy, ST3035 case, gen insert with old tritium pearl, 2836-2 movement and 93150 bracelet with 593 end pieces. This started in a noobmariner case with drilled lugholes, but I switched to the Startime 3035 case around 2010 or so. Too bad the ST 3035 and 3135 cases are no longer available.
Just FYI,
There are Smartphone app (s) that can be used as a timegrapher if you would like to regulate the movement
Over a month on, and this watch keeps really good time (the VR3135) and has not needed any adjustment.
The old 2836 on the other hand, is way out - 10 mins per day or something like that! I could try and regulate it, but haven't got round to it yet. I should take all your advice and get some tools to help with that.
The old 2836 on the other hand, is way out - 10 mins per day or something like that! I could try and regulate it, but haven't got round to it yet. I should take all your advice and get some tools to help with that.