Devinthedoc
Known Member
I sent it to an expert watchmaker on here. Excited to see my new crystal and datewheel installed.
-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
How to install genuine datewheel onto JF SH3135 (no sanding + no gen part needed)
- Thread starter pompompurin
- Start date
I sent it to an expert watchmaker on here. Excited to see my new crystal and datewheel installed.
Et_haz
Do not accept unsolicited offers
Hey guys and gals. is there a how to on getting here? I couldn't find it i'm sorry.
I mean a how to disassemble the watch to were you can actualy change the DW.
Thnx!
I mean a how to disassemble the watch to were you can actualy change the DW.
Thnx!
if you have to ask that question, are you sure you are ready to do mod a sh3135 movement?!?!
assuming that you are new to this, i wouldn't recommend you to risk modding a SH 3135 movement (since spare parts are expensive and rare to come by, and it's easy to screw up)
anyways, here is the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUZ3xB5fI-k
- 14/7/17
- 163
- 67
- 28
- 14/6/13
- 1,334
- 137
- 63
Yeah. Completely replacing the date seat. Had to do the same thing and won’t be doing the method again.
- 14/6/13
- 1,334
- 137
- 63
I used a replacement from another yuki. I don’t remember the genuine part number, it was like 150$ I think.
- 14/6/13
- 1,334
- 137
- 63
- 14/6/13
- 1,334
- 137
- 63
I don’t have an issue sanding a gen date wheel. It’s not a rare or hard to get item, and not terribly expensive.
- 10/6/14
- 14,018
- 4,053
- 113
I have held off on commenting on this because some have good luck but I have done this a bunch of times and it doesn't work as well as the video.
There are two ways to do this. I prefer taking the date plate off. Pushing from the rear. You will break the head of the stud if you try to pry it from the top. They are in there very tight.
The second way is what is explained on the video, but I, even with a small amount of lift, break the top of the stud almost every time. It would had been great for the maker of the video to show how he did it with out breaking it. The heads of the studs are thin and will bend or snap off.
Never the less, even with doing this upgrade, the date disk is still very tight in there. I sometimes remove the jewel to allow it to be a little looser. It works but not reliable.
After doing 10-15 of these I have found that the only way to get your real rolex date wheel to work it to buy a real 3135 date wheel and a real 3135 date plate. Part 3135-600. You will still suffer from not being able to quickset until about 4 am when the date finger is off the date wheel but you can fix that by changing all the date advancing parts to real rolex parts. For ever yuki or sh that I have owned I do this. Little costly but reliable as hell. No more date wheel issues or slipping date wheels or double or 1 and a half date changes or lack of date change. The list goes on and on. The intermediate date wheel is very soft on the SH3135 where the rolex one is steel the date finger is a stone on the yuki and a small metal nub on the real rolex. The date flipper/Star gear is also a better design by rolex where the star engages the date wheel better. The SH has a small brass gasket to help it engage but the tightness of the date wheel in the plate makes it not work well.
If you have the money upgrade all date advancement parts next time you service your yuki/sh3135. I just ordered the VRF 116610 with the VR3135. I am hoping it is a 1 to 1 rep of the 3135 and not a SA type. The jewel on the balance looks amazing and the date finger is like the rolex one and I am wondering if the date plate is deeper. I will keep everyone informed. I ordered it yesterday and the TD will be back on Jan 2.
Happy new year to everyone.
There are two ways to do this. I prefer taking the date plate off. Pushing from the rear. You will break the head of the stud if you try to pry it from the top. They are in there very tight.
The second way is what is explained on the video, but I, even with a small amount of lift, break the top of the stud almost every time. It would had been great for the maker of the video to show how he did it with out breaking it. The heads of the studs are thin and will bend or snap off.
Never the less, even with doing this upgrade, the date disk is still very tight in there. I sometimes remove the jewel to allow it to be a little looser. It works but not reliable.
After doing 10-15 of these I have found that the only way to get your real rolex date wheel to work it to buy a real 3135 date wheel and a real 3135 date plate. Part 3135-600. You will still suffer from not being able to quickset until about 4 am when the date finger is off the date wheel but you can fix that by changing all the date advancing parts to real rolex parts. For ever yuki or sh that I have owned I do this. Little costly but reliable as hell. No more date wheel issues or slipping date wheels or double or 1 and a half date changes or lack of date change. The list goes on and on. The intermediate date wheel is very soft on the SH3135 where the rolex one is steel the date finger is a stone on the yuki and a small metal nub on the real rolex. The date flipper/Star gear is also a better design by rolex where the star engages the date wheel better. The SH has a small brass gasket to help it engage but the tightness of the date wheel in the plate makes it not work well.
If you have the money upgrade all date advancement parts next time you service your yuki/sh3135. I just ordered the VRF 116610 with the VR3135. I am hoping it is a 1 to 1 rep of the 3135 and not a SA type. The jewel on the balance looks amazing and the date finger is like the rolex one and I am wondering if the date plate is deeper. I will keep everyone informed. I ordered it yesterday and the TD will be back on Jan 2.
Happy new year to everyone.
Use screw size 1,4 to lift up date indicator sitting lightly
Just enough to get space for gen datewheel to move freely
Use petwood to push datewheel ‘s teeth around and let datewheel get used to spin
Becareful with 6 and 9 position don’t lift it up too much date can sit off center
With new ARF datejust or Sub don’t screw to movement’s screw too tight it will give date plate heavy tension and date won’t flip at 12 correctly
Good luck ????
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just enough to get space for gen datewheel to move freely
Use petwood to push datewheel ‘s teeth around and let datewheel get used to spin
Becareful with 6 and 9 position don’t lift it up too much date can sit off center
With new ARF datejust or Sub don’t screw to movement’s screw too tight it will give date plate heavy tension and date won’t flip at 12 correctly
Good luck ????
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think I have a similar problem to install the gen second hand.
the stem seems too short to install the gen second hand while the second hand stock seems to have a longer tube.
Do you know the exact number of the second wheel ? 3135-360 ?
- 10/6/14
- 14,018
- 4,053
- 113
Yep. That is the part number. I haven't had a problem with a SH3135 though and a seconds hand. Are you sure the pinion isn't broken?
It’s not on a sh3135 but on sh3132.
But stock second hand fit properly without issue.
The gen second hand seems to have a shorter tube than the stock hand.
So I was wondering if the solution would be to install a gen second wheel but I'm not even sure it's the same wheel on 3135 and 3132. Sparts are difficult to find for 3132
Sorry for the bad pics
But stock second hand fit properly without issue.
The gen second hand seems to have a shorter tube than the stock hand.
So I was wondering if the solution would be to install a gen second wheel but I'm not even sure it's the same wheel on 3135 and 3132. Sparts are difficult to find for 3132
Sorry for the bad pics
- 10/6/14
- 14,018
- 4,053
- 113
Don't understand your question. You are showing a Rolex second hand and a non rolex second hand. Now you are asking what the real part number would be for a rolex 3132 seconds wheel. The way rolex works is most of the 31XX are the same part number. Example, 3130-360, 3135-360, 3155-360 exc. So if you were sporting a real 3132 your part number would be 3132-360. Now the seconds hand you just posted looks to be a 3130 seconds hand and the 3130 and 3135 seconds wheel/pinion are very close in size. The 3135 will be slightly taller due to the date plate being a tad thicker. Never the less it will work. If I were you and the movement is a SH I would just find a 3130-360 or the 3135 one and deal with a little taller seconds hand. Just make sure you have the clearance on the crystal.
- 10/6/14
- 14,018
- 4,053
- 113
Can you post some more pics of the movement. I am looking at your seconds hand and it is very much like an ETA seconds pinion. I would love to see the min hand and hour hand installed. Looking at your seconds hand and the real one, the real one's cup is bigger and I hope you have the room for the pinion to fit. Doesnt take much to stall the balance and lots of restriction on the seconds wheel will stop it.
As this tread does not concern too much my hands problem, I posted the photos here:
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo.../7386295-milgauss-arf-sh3131-gen-seconde-hand
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo.../7386295-milgauss-arf-sh3131-gen-seconde-hand
