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Got my V3 Noob 116500LN Today. Mixed Feelings.

Yellobird

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So it’s been a while and I have to say the watch has grown on me. In fact this is the only watch I have been wearing over the last two months (despite having 8 other nice pieces).

After replacing the crystal gasket recently the rehaut depth issue is finally gone. The ARF dial never made it so I am still with a stock v3 noob dial but it is fine. Maybe a V4 will fix the slight lesser print quality.

 
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Mark1937

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So it’s been a while and I have to say the watch has grown on me. In fact this is the only watch I have been wearing over the last two months (despite having 8 other nice pieces).

After replacing the crystal gasket recently the rehaut depth issue is finally gone. The ARF dial never made it so I am still with a stock v3 noob dial but it is fine. Maybe a V4 will fix the slight lesser print quality.


can you kindly take more pictures with different seal? Did the depth of the dial problem go away?

Thank you
 

Yellobird

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Marco1937

Sure, please have a look at these two comparison pics. Maybe it is not THAT evident in pics but you should see that earlier it seemed as the rehaut was taller due to tall gasket protruding abive the rehaut, now with the new gasket there is no wall above the rehaut wall itself, you can see the black bezel from the inside and the crystal edge above it. What is more, now the edge of the crystal itself catches light nicer, with some sparkle in certain lighting.
 

RiffRalf

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Sure, please have a look at these two comparison pics. Maybe it is not THAT evident in pics but you should see that earlier it seemed as the rehaut was taller due to tall gasket protruding abive the rehaut, now with the new gasket there is no wall above the rehaut wall itself, you can see the black bezel from the inside and the crystal edge above it. What is more, now the edge of the crystal itself catches light nicer, with some sparkle in certain lighting.
Definitely.
 

HokeandCookers

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Where does one find gen 116500/116520 hands?

i have a v3 and the sizing of the rivets on the hands bugs the hell out of me. It’s the biggest tell that it’s a replica.
 

Rubberman

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Where does one find gen 116500/116520 hands?

i have a v3 and the sizing of the rivets on the hands bugs the hell out of me. It’s the biggest tell that it’s a replica.

have you check out sale section? If you already have access to it..
misiekped have 116520 SL hands for sale. A very skillful watchmaker in US.
 

robmack

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Sure, please have a look at these two comparison pics. Maybe it is not THAT evident in pics but you should see that earlier it seemed as the rehaut was taller due to tall gasket protruding abive the rehaut, now with the new gasket there is no wall above the rehaut wall itself, you can see the black bezel from the inside and the crystal edge above it. What is more, now the edge of the crystal itself catches light nicer, with some sparkle in certain lighting.
Um, I'm not clear on which pic is which. First picture is "after" and second picture is "before"?
 

Yellobird

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Um, I'm not clear on which pic is which. First picture is "after" and second picture is "before"?

Yes, exactly. The Noob gasket is like a wall around the rehaut, protruding above the actual rehaut with this milky rim.

The correct gasket and gen gasket is lower and is not visible above the rehaut, in fact after a swap you get to see the black bezel right above the rehaut.

Here some additional quick pics after the mod, in fact just shot right now for this purpose:

 

robmack

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Cheers, thanks for the clarification. I'll have to plan for that modification to my Noob Daytona Panda in the near future.
 

Redsoxfan02116

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Following this thread because it’s answering a lot of my questions. Yello... did you or do you plan to get the ARF bracelet and swap on to Noob? What happened to ARF dial? Did you not buy it? I was thinking of buying v3 and then having someone like oascom do dial replace. It seems like ARF dial and Daytona red in particular is much better. Although, your build and mod looks great
 
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Yellobird

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Redsoxfan02116 One dealer was supposed to get me the dial alone but he did not manage in the end. I am still on the fence whether I should do that. The thing that stops me is: 1. Getting a full arf for this. 2. Modding the arf dial in order for it to fit the noob. 3. Possibility of scratching the hands while replacing dials. All this sounds like a lot when the difference is not THAT huge.
 
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Storm.

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Redsoxfan02116 One dealer was supposed to get me the dial alone but he did not manage in the end. I am still on the fence whether I should do that. The thing that stops me is: 1. Getting a full arf for this. 2. Modding the arf dial in order for it to fit the noob. 3. Possibility of scratching the hands while replacing dials. All this sounds like a lot when the difference is not THAT huge.

Other problem is ruining the movement basically. You glue the dial on. The arms don't fit.

​​​​​So everytime a service is in order, you have to pry the thing off. Who knows how well that goes. So it might be you end up with a ruined dial and movement... For something, arguably, very marginal.
 
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robmack

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Other problem is ruining the movement basically. You glue the dial on. The arms don't fit.
Gluing the dial to the movement is one option that some modders take.

Another better option is to use dial dots, which are basically small round double sided adhesive tapes. These are non-permanent, don't ruin the base movement or the dial and can facilitate removal of the dial..

A third option is to relocate the existing feet on the ARF dial. This option is the hardest because it requires both skill and precision. You'd have to have a jig of some sort to hold the feet in the precise location on the dial and then the equipment and skill to quickly solder the feet on to the dial without having the heat ruin the face of the dial. Few modders have the requisite experience to go this route.
 
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Storm.

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Gluing the dial to the movement is one option that some modders take.

Another better option is to use dial dots, which are basically small round double sided adhesive tapes. These are non-permanent, don't ruin the base movement or the dial and can facilitate removal of the dial..

A third option is to relocate the existing feet on the ARF dial. This option is the hardest because it requires both skill and precision. You'd have to have a jig of some sort to hold the feet in the precise location on the dial and then the equipment and skill to quickly solder the feet on to the dial without having the heat ruin the face of the dial. Few modders have the requisite experience to go this route.

Cost of this comes to around 250-300€ just for the work of the cutting and resoldering. Including an arf at around 400€. That's 700€. Plus shipping, plus plus plus, say around 800... You can get a gen dial for that money.
 

Rubberman

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... around 800... You can get a gen dial for that money.

Possible with used 116520 dial, very very unlikely if you go for ceramic Daytona route. The possibility to find one, and potential list price for it... Though current Noob's panda dial is quite good for most, black variant still nowhere near gen with the shiny sub dial rings unlike more matt-like on Gen.

Cheers
 

Storm.

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Yellobird

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Still the most worn watch in the rotation, I really like it in the end.