Tobel
Respected Member
- 6/7/17
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Can't remember who but someone did it, there's a thread on this, you can look around. Result was good but it required a lot of case reshaping
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!!!gen 116500 vs noob 116500 modded!!!finally the real comparison live !!!! Many photos inside !!!
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Can't remember who but someone did it, there's a thread on this, you can look around. Result was good but it required a lot of case reshaping
- 5/8/12
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Because ARF 116500 V1 is no longer available, I suppose I can only combine Noob 904L with ARF V2 together.
Could you guys please advise if below spec is the best option so far?
● Noob 904L 116500 watch
● Noob 904L case shape rework
● ARF V2 ceramic bezel
● ARF V2 white dial
● ARF V2 bracelet (will there has gap between the Noob lugs)
Thanks a lot!
Could you guys please advise if below spec is the best option so far?
● Noob 904L 116500 watch
● Noob 904L case shape rework
● ARF V2 ceramic bezel
● ARF V2 white dial
● ARF V2 bracelet (will there has gap between the Noob lugs)
Thanks a lot!
- 22/10/18
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thewatcher As I have the 116520, so not the ceramic version, anyway a noob one, I can only confirm that you won't have any problems if you use on a noob Daytona an ARF bracelet, the improvement is important and I don't see any gap between the lugs (I mean, not more than with noob watch and noob bracelet)
- 5/8/12
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thewatcher This is the list of parts I have compiled an am contemplating.
Noob base watch
Casework
Arf Bezel
Arf Dial
Arf clasp (I think you can get away with using the NOOB bracelet, but invert the SELs from 6->12 and vice versa, then use the ARF clasp)
ETA 7750 Rotor
JF Slim version case back and screw (required for the rotor)
Arf Crystal (requires a trim of the gasket)
Double check timekeeping, power reserve and a light oil.
Noob base watch
Casework
Arf Bezel
Arf Dial
Arf clasp (I think you can get away with using the NOOB bracelet, but invert the SELs from 6->12 and vice versa, then use the ARF clasp)
ETA 7750 Rotor
JF Slim version case back and screw (required for the rotor)
Arf Crystal (requires a trim of the gasket)
Double check timekeeping, power reserve and a light oil.
Hey, what exactly do you mean by inverting the SELs from 6->12 and by how much would you have to shave the crystal? Wouldn’t it be easier to buy a gen gasket?
To see this and to think about the ubiquitous Daytona reps every taxi driver in Brussels had on their wrists 10 or 15 years ago ^^ we've come a long, long way. This is amazing!
Take the SELs off at 6 and 12 oclock and then replace them in the opposite place. Apparently this helps remove the slight gaps between case and SEL. Guru's thread, first post, 3rd paragraph, first sentence.
Same for the gasket - need to shave 0.4mm - no need to shave the actual crystal! Guru has inserted pictures in his thread. (Guru's thread, page 1, final para just before pictures). Also see guru's post with this timestamp: 10-08-18, 12:23.
If you search the word gasket in that thread, most of the info you need is condensed on the first page, including some information about using original parts.
Same for the gasket - need to shave 0.4mm - no need to shave the actual crystal! Guru has inserted pictures in his thread. (Guru's thread, page 1, final para just before pictures). Also see guru's post with this timestamp: 10-08-18, 12:23.
If you search the word gasket in that thread, most of the info you need is condensed on the first page, including some information about using original parts.
markfisher
Active Member
It seems like you mixed some Noob and ARF suggestions... You don’t need to change the rotor and caseback on the Noob Daytona 4130.
The bezel is acceptable to my (untrained) eye. The dial is the main issue for me, but annoyingly it's also the hardest to fix.
Does anyone know a modder in the us that can swap a Daytona gen dial with a noob?? I need to find someone that works on Daytona’s. Thanks!
I bought a noob 116500 and recently just received a noob modded with arf bezel and dial. I really thought the Noob was good enough watch. But after receiving the noob with arf parts, I can easily say the difference is night and day.
The subdial thickness was clearly visible when you have the two side by side. The creamier white and the whiter bezel of the ARF really pops out. Sadly, I can't live with a watch with non working chronos subdials, so a plain ARF also won't do.
After all that, it is now very clear that the only way to go about this is to get the Noob and mod it with ARF/gen parts.
The subdial thickness was clearly visible when you have the two side by side. The creamier white and the whiter bezel of the ARF really pops out. Sadly, I can't live with a watch with non working chronos subdials, so a plain ARF also won't do.
After all that, it is now very clear that the only way to go about this is to get the Noob and mod it with ARF/gen parts.
Eatdirtfartdust
Known Member
Speaking as a novice: the only differences I could tell, aside from the normal wear and tear scratches, is that the gen has a softer white color to the dial, and the crown on the clasp is “cleaner”. Not cleaner like less dirt, just more contrast in the edges to the background.
Would never tell on the wrist.
Would never tell on the wrist.
Yeah I’m new too, I think I would be hard pressed to tell a difference between a gen and this rep without directly comparing them side to side. The the slightly off white wouldn’t be noticeable in different lighting.
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- 9/6/14
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