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Datejust T Swiss T dial original?

reinier12

Getting To Know The Place
7/4/11
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@Timmer, I see. Did you pay extra for the additional crystal or he simply supplied you the correct crystal and raffles kept the 2824 one with him?
 

reinier12

Getting To Know The Place
7/4/11
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@Nur-Uhr , thanks! Do you happen to know to/from how many mm I need to broach then I will order the correct tool.
 

Nur-Uhr

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I would suggest these hands:

They will be great looking on a 5-digit Datejust builld :)


@ all user writing in this thread - great summary and write up. Nice thread for Datejust builds ;)
 
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Timmer

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@Timmer, I see. Did you pay extra for the additional crystal or he simply supplied you the correct crystal and raffles kept the 2824 one with him?
No I didn't pay extra; I queried him for the 2824 case with the "rolex cyclops position" xtal, and for the price of the 2824 case he sent me unassembled the 2824 case, bezel, crown together with the xtal & gasket that he uses on his 2836 cases (which is the one with the rolex position cyclops).
 

reinier12

Getting To Know The Place
7/4/11
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I would suggest these hands:

They will be great looking on a 5-digit Datejust builld :)


@ all user writing in this thread - great summary and write up. Nice thread for Datejust builds ;)
Awesome I will try those hands! Online I read ETA 2834 hole hand size is: H1.50 x M0.90 x S 0.25
Rolex 3135 needs: H 1.40 M .95 S .22 (mm)

Does this mean I only need to broach the minute hand 0.05mm. It wont be a problem that the hands holes on the ETA are bigger with the H and S hand? Seems to me they will be little loose?
 

daytonadude

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An actual gold bezel of the 16233 is a little harder to find. However, if you ever find one that is on sale. You would need to do the following steps to ensure you're purchasing the correct product, as many times, people are listing the 16013/1603 bezels and claiming them to be 16233.

Step 1
- Hold your gut! and kill that instant buy ability, as these generally go for around $300-$500/piece, and they fly fast!​
Step 2
- Contact the seller and ask them for the hallmark behind the bezel (it's tough to see). Rolex does, but its logo is in a small circle. The height of the bezel, I believe, would be around 2.75mm, and the WEIGHT is 5.00 grams. Make sure you check for the weight and crystal height. The 16013 and 1603 are shorter in height and weigh only 2.5 grams. These two are the critical information that you need to check! Again, do not skip step 2. If you do, it will cost you a lot of headaches, money, and time wasting.​
step 3
- After verifying the information about the bezel, you purchase the product and wait for the bezel to arrive. In the meantime, I recommend you grab a good book and a bottle of Macallan, either 12 or 18 (or your choice of fine wine). Enjoy the book and the excellent wine; your bezel will arrive before you know it.​

As regards the crystal, again, you have to decide whether you're building a model that is pre-2001 or post-2001. If you are making a pre-2001 DJ, your best option is to go with the plain crystal (when I said plain, I meant no LEC and no AR). I believe Rolex started to put LEC (the Laser Etched Crown) on its sapphire crystal around 2001-2002. I can't remember exactly, but it's there. And AR on its crystal, I believe, around 2004 or so. That said, I think the Clark-crystal will do just fine for the older model (90s-2000), or if you can't find the gen, you can ask our professor here on the forum. I believe he is CONUS; his crystals are proof to be as transparent as day and very much on point with the gen. As for the post-2001, you can find them online with no problem since the LEC and AR are more common nowadays.
- (Click Here to learn more about the professor's crystal)

PS Just FYI, don't go too crazy about the crystal, as if you have a vintage Rolex and are sent in for service, they will replace any old broken parts with the new ones anyway. Most of the time, people have their crystals replaced because of dings, dents, scratches, etc.
Gents the parts are en route and I’m looking forward to sharing my build with you. Wondering on one last thing, do I need a raffles datewheel to replace the stock 3135 as done in the pompompurin build I purchase, which was in a raffles case?
 

beanvatan

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Gents the parts are en route and I’m looking forward to sharing my build with you. Wondering on one last thing, do I need a raffles datewheel to replace the stock 3135 as done in the pompompurin build I purchase, which was in a raffles case?
I am excited to see your build, hurry up and post your list of parts already. Lol

Which specs are your raffles built, by the way? Can you please list the specs, or direct us to the sale post?
 

daytonadude

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This is the previous build I purchased:


However this build is with a Korean case, so I’m wondering if that impacts whether I should buy a different datewheel? I could buy the same raffles one used in the previous build.
 

daytonadude

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Hey gents! Been a while but am back, here’s the build. Couldn’t be happier! This blue dial watch has been a dream of mine. Many thanks to everyone for your help!

And, because I’m never without a project, I have a question. Is there a 34mm Datejust, gold or gold plated (not two tone) that can take a 3135 movement? I’ve seen the 15223 but it seems like it’s two tone.

Now, here are some pictures! I will take some in daylight as well.



 
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reinier12

Getting To Know The Place
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@Nur-Uhr , long time delay life got busy. But the built is gonna happen and its gonna be a real 1603 built in the end gonna use a rep case from a reddit user that has a bit slimmer lugs and he will also fit a Gen spec Tophat acrylic crystal. This is the rep case with a sapphire crystal.



For movement I'm going for VS3135 the crown action will be different as 3035 but I think 3035 has to many downsides to use a 3035 instead of 3135 for historical accuracy haha. Will keep the progress updated here and if anyone else has cool builts to share I cannot wait to see :)

@daytonadude your built is gorgeous!
 
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