Keep in mind you want to go deep enough to seat the tube deep enough.
If you don’t, the crown will stick out from the case and look off.
I don’t have a set depth, but rather I test the tube frequently until it’s at the depth that allows the crown to seat properly.
Here’s one I just did. 120 degree 4mm chamfer.
What case is that a clean or BP?Keep in mind you want to go deep enough to seat the tube deep enough.
If you don’t, the crown will stick out from the case and look off.
I don’t have a set depth, but rather I test the tube frequently until it’s at the depth that allows the crown to seat properly.
Here’s one I just did. 120 degree 4mm chamfer.
Sweet. I’ve got one and was thinking about having the movement Frankensteined when it gives up the ghost.
Hi Fraist, did you still need 6 people to buy in the US For the 3.0 X .30 tap? And I have a case that 3.0 X .35 do I just run the 3.0 X .30 tap to retread?
When retaping from m3x.35 threads to m3x.30 is there anything needs to be done?As you all have found out, nearly every tap offered on the market for these tubes is indeed incorrect. People will say they work, but they don’t.
The tubes get way too tight after a few turns on the wrench.
The correct tap size is : M3.05x.30-4H
Daytona pushers on the other had, do have options available on the market. That tap size is M2.5x.25, and can be found on CousinsUK.
I’ve had these made via the same USA manufacture as listed above and they turned out great.
Gen tubes thread in with no issues.
Couple pics
