This looks like a variation of the “time bomb” SA3186 movement. The way to tell is the rounded end of the best adjustor arm, and the fact that the reversing wheels aren’t painted purple all the way to the teeth. Now, the SA3186 is a bad choice for a GMT movement because the hour hand jumping spring was prone to breaking. However, the version you posted doesn’t have a GMT function (I think, I’m not too familiar with the Cellini line of watches). So this movement might be ok. It’s hard to say without taking it apart and seeing the dial side of the movement. Does the Cellini you’re looking at have any complications on the dial side? Date, week, moon phase, etc?
It has a date dial at 3pm.This looks like a variation of the “time bomb” SA3186 movement. The way to tell is the rounded end of the best adjustor arm, and the fact that the reversing wheels aren’t painted purple all the way to the teeth. Now, the SA3186 is a bad choice for a GMT movement because the hour hand jumping spring was prone to breaking. However, the version you posted doesn’t have a GMT function (I think, I’m not too familiar with the Cellini line of watches). So this movement might be ok. It’s hard to say without taking it apart and seeing the dial side of the movement. Does the Cellini you’re looking at have any complications on the dial side? Date, week, moon phase, etc?
@KJ2020 any idea what the dial side complications are like on the “SA3165” used in the GMF Cellini linked above. It looks like the movement is a variation on the time bomb SA3186, but the SA3165 doesn’t have a GMT function but instead has a date dial at 3 o’clock. I’m thinking maybe this is ok because it doesn’t have that weak hour jumping spring, but who knows how the date dial has been implemented.It has a date dial at 3pm.
here is the link
Rolex - Cellini Date 39mm RG/LE White GMF Asia 3165 Mod | Theonewatches
Rolex - Cellini Date 39mm RG/LE White GMF Asia 3165 Modtheonewatches.io
thanks for your interest and assistance.
Is this movement reliable?It looks like the SA3135 with a different engraved winding bridge.
It’s a bottom tier clone.Is this movement reliable?
This answer looks too technical for me, can you explain with an example, photos if possible? What are the keyless works?1) the slop probably comes from part tolerances in the keyless works. These parts are manufactured using fine blanking on a stamping press. As the tool and die wear, the tolerances of the parts will get looser. Rolex almost certainly changes their tools and dies more frequently than Dandong. To correct the issue you could try swapping in gen parts into the keyless works.
The “keyless works” is the part of the watch that is mechanically linked to the stem and crown. Old watches and clocks were wound up using a key; when watch designs ditched the need for an external key to wind them, the parts and design for winding / setting a watch without a key was called the “keyless works”.This answer looks too technical for me, can you explain with an example, photos if possible? What are the keyless works?
This answer looks too technical for me, can you explain with an example, photos if possible? What are the keyless works?
Thank you for the detailed expansion. I think rep movement factories such as Dandong have reached a level that they can easily address these issues and make their movements feel more like gens. Not sure could be their difficulties? Maybe they will need to use PM in their movements parts and therefore put a pressure on the price, or is it their manufacturing equipments, process and QC procedures?The “keyless works” is the part of the watch that is mechanically linked to the stem and crown. Old watches and clocks were wound up using a key; when watch designs ditched the need for an external key to wind them, the parts and design for winding / setting a watch without a key was called the “keyless works”.
Almost every watch’s keyless works contains the following parts:
The reason that rep movements often feel sloppy when winding and setting is because:
- Stem & crown
- Winding pinion
- Sliding pinion
- Yoke
- Yoke spring
- Setting lever
- Setting lever spring
- A collection on intermediate wheels and pinions to get the energy from winding to the mainspring; and the motion of setting to the cannon pinion.
- The parts of the keyless works are made to looser tolerances so there’s more slop between the parts.
- The metal used in rep movements (especially for the winding and sliding pinions) tends to be softer and less hard wearing than on gens. This softer metal wears down and results in loose meshing between gear / pinion teeth.
As a rule of thumb, the bill of materials (aka the cost of the parts used) for a hardware product is less than half of the wholesale price of the product. The wholesale price of a product is typically around half of its retail price. So if a VS3235 movement costs around $200 retail, then it’s wholesale price is probably around $100, which implies the cost to produce all the parts that go into a vs3235 movement is under $50.Thank you for the detailed expansion. I think rep movement factories such as Dandong have reached a level that they can easily address these issues and make their movements feel more like gens. Not sure could be their difficulties? Maybe they will need to use PM in their movements parts and therefore put a pressure on the price, or is it their manufacturing equipments, process and QC procedures?
Do you know what factory your milgauss rep is from? If it’s from several years ago it probably has a lower tier 3130 clone or an eta clone movement inside.Learning alot. Thanks for the write up. Have a Daytona coming and have a Milgauss rep from 4 years ago. Anyone know where there is information regarding the reps of Milgauss movements?
What is your opinion on the new movements and the discontinuation of the DD4130? My understanding is that the DD4130 is superior to the SH4130 and therefore I'm assuming the new updated version will be too (but that doesn't matter since Dandong isn't making a 4131 yet). Are the new updated Shanghai movements used in the new clones better than their predecessors?