The movement is still brand new, and there is no known issue with the ARF spring as it is. The main concern, as it's been expressed here, is that the genuine Rolex 3186 movement employs a spring that does a lot of work, but also is very fragile (the jumping hour click (spring), part #3186-657 shown in the previous tech sheet photo). The *thought* was that a rep of this part would be questionable, even though the Genuine article does not fail so much as to be a big issue. Only time and use will tell how it will stand up. The old "timebomb" 3186 (which was not in fact a 3186 at all) has a similar, but much different spring that performed the same task. After a short amount of use, it would fail- and there was not even a generic part to replace it with. To make matters worse, you could not simply drop in a different movement without much other work. This, and the replacement 3186 itself was unavailable for purchase. At least now, since these new clones have the option to accept gen (or generic gen) parts- we have options should something happen.
Great statement. This is all very exciting time for us.
Only one thing. The ARF spring did fail. It is still keeping great time but I can not adjust the hour hand. I feel the click but doesn't move. I have not had the time to take it apart but I am sure its the spring. I am looking forward to servicing it and replacing the whole unit. I have the spring (657) and min wheel (260) I just need the top gear and I can't find it anywhere. I still have 2 people I can call just been busy. When I got the ARF I really thing they threw it together because I told them I was doing a review of the VRF and would love to do a comparison. The funny thing was I was told days before the release of the VRF by a member here that ARF was coming out with one when I just spoke to them and they said that it wasn't coming out till after CNY. Never the less. I too am a fan of the 3185 over the 3186 but they are bot great movements. The 3185 to me has a better design for the jumping hour hand. It has 2 springs sandwiched between the wheel and the jumping jewel. Yes it is a lot more expensive to change but really never have. I serviced the V3185 and it is solid but that part is slipping. No clue because it is hard to see. I didn't put hands on it. LOL. It is just sitting there waiting for me to build another one. But I did get the part to fix it. Yes its more money. But to me it is a better design. Lets hope that VR and AR both learn. But lets not forget. This is the first version of each!!! and man am I impressed.
I wanted to thank you for the explanations you are giving us.
If I understand correctly, after a few months can we say that the movement (ARF SH3186) has stopped working properly?
So it's not a stable movement?
The parts to be able to repair it is easy to find them?
Should you change parts from the beginning?
I wanted to thank you for the explanations you are giving us.
If I understand correctly, after a few months can we say that the movement (ARF SH3186) has stopped working properly?
So it's not a stable movement?
The parts to be able to repair it is easy to find them?
Should you change parts from the beginning?
One more point. We are all a big family here. Now like a family we all have different levels of doing things. LOL.
So in our rep family we have some that just want to buy the best fake as is and wear it. Then we have ones that will spend a little money and get it serviced and water sealed. Then we have some that throw a real crown and maybe a crystal and call it a day. Then we have nut cases like me who want to make a life long watch that I can be proud and say look what I made!!!! LOL.
So for nut cases like me, this is very exciting. These two watches are such a large jump in the rep game. I have been waiting years for a GMT movement to be replicated. We started with hack job ETA clones with ICHS and they got solid. But people went nuts because twice a day you could see the error of the hand stack. LOL. Then we went with the time bomb CHS watches. Now some of us actually took Yuki's and build up 3185's and made our own movement holders. Heck Mike has been doing it for years. Here is my first one. Yuki still has it on his website. https://www.yukiwatch.com/articles/article/7390084/183163.htm. Mike made that for me and it was perfection.
So now we actually have cases that fit real 3185/86 movements and movements that accept Rolex parts. So again for a nutcase like me. This is freaking amazing. LOL.
I wanted to thank you for the explanations you are giving us.
If I understand correctly, after a few months can we say that the movement (ARF SH3186) has stopped working properly?
So it's not a stable movement?
The parts to be able to repair it is easy to find them?
Should you change parts from the beginning?
So again for a nutcase like me. This is freaking amazing. LOL.
Good to know the jump click and movement are strong. That insert is laughable. Neither color transition is in the right place and speed bumps, geez. Maybe someday.
I am praying ARF hits this one out of the ball park! Their LN bezel assembly is superior to the VR so I hope they make a nice insert.
If one were planning on a Franken, do you think the ARF bezel assembly with Gen insert is good enough? Maybe add gen click spring? I know "good enough" is subjective... I'm just looking to add that nice haptic feedback satisfaction and looking to avoid that rocking bezel that is common among reps. I can get the insert for about $250, full assembly $800.
Just bought my first Franken (submariner) with full gen bezel assembly and am pleasantly surprised/shocked at how good it feels to play with the bezel lol. I thought this whole frankening thing was crazy at first.. but now I'm going crazy with excitement for new projects lol. So Thanks in advance for your input- this is pretty new to me and I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
Brother 290's is a little high for Amp. Either its dry or not enough oil. All other number seem good. I've done a few of the VR3135 and one VR3186 and 260's is a sweet spot.