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Compare ARF 116710LN with the VRF 116710LN

mega12

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Love me a good reverse kermit bro! Middle pic is a gen, other two are mine

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Also nice one. Did the same while building my hulk :)
 
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mega12

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thanks for answer: if you have both movements, can you make the measurement?

Unfortunately not. Although I’m dismantling and assembling many of my frankens by myself, I would never touch my gens. I’m not a watch smith and the only one who is allowed to touch them is R factory. Sorry :(
 
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ginopino

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Unfortunately not. Although I’m dismantling and assembling many of my frankens by myself, I would never touch my gens. I’m not a watch smith and the only one who is allowed to touch them is R factory. Sorry :(
I was referring to ARF and VRF, not gens. I perfectly know thickness of the gen. Is 6.4 for 3185 and 6.8 for 3186.
I’m curios to know this two movement are thick
 
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Rufctr2

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I was referring to ARF and VRF, not gens. I perfectly know thickness of the gen. Is 6.4 for 3185 and 6.8 for 3186.
I’m curios to know this two movement are thick

Do you know the thickness of the 3135 too pls ? I m asking if a vr/arf gmt movement could be used on a jf 16610 case.
 

greekgod

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Guys this is driving me crazy lol...I have been going through this thread but I am hard to come to a consensus... Is there one on which of the two is better? Or do we chose based on if I want to Franken or want OOB?
 

Kalev007

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I think it’s said here and in other similar threads that ARF is best OTB and good to go as is.
 

KJ2020

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Would it be possible to use it for a 16710 «*base*» ?


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

Unequivocal No from occb2 in another thread. I will try to find it and post a link. The GMT movements are taller than the base Sub 3135 movements due to the extra GMT parts, plus there's an extra hand requiring more space between the dial and the crystal.
 
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Rufctr2

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Unequivocal No from occb2 in another thread. I will try to find it and post a link. The GMT movements are taller than the base Sub 3135 movements due to the extra GMT parts, plus there's an extra hand requiring more space between the dial and the crystal.

Thanks for the info. So we need to wait for the perfect 16710 base, even if we can now think to use the clone movmt.
 

ginopino

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Do you know the thickness of the 3135 too pls ? I m asking if a vr/arf gmt movement could be used on a jf 16610 case.

Is 6.00 and no, you can’t install them on a 16610 jf case.
but you can convert the 3135 in a 3175 and put inside a 16610 case to make a 16700.
3175 is same thickness as 3135
 
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sickopsycho

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I just received my VRF 116710. Opened up the case and the movement is bone dry (and a bit dirty), so I want to service before I fully wind it up. I took the bracelet off my ARF 116622, it would appear as though it will fit at a glance- I'm currently giving it the "spa treatment"- washed it in the ultrasonic and it's soaking in baby oil. I've already broken it in pretty well, as it was my daily for the last few months... but some lube never hurt anybody, :p
I read a comment on this thread that someone received one with the correct case stamp on it. Mine has the same 126710 stamp on the case. I did receive the 904l steel polish tube and a cleaning cloth from VRF. Ordered through JTime. I can't read the instructions on it, so I assume it's polish.

I'm very impressed by how mine came. GMT hand lines up perfectly with the time, hands line up perfectly at 12, and the date flips over literally exactly at 12. I get the smallest amount of wiggle when I'm doing the quick hour adjust (crown position 2), but I can live with it. I'd rather swap out bezel assembly and crystal than worry about that wiggle at this point- but reading this thread has gotten my ambitions for this watch pretty high. ;)



I assume the plate over the rotor screw is just stuck on there? Any trick to getting it off without munging it up? Just get something sharp in there behind it and it'll come up? I'm really impressed with the operation of the automatic module as well. I'm used to a noisy rotor so much so that I assumed it was stuck until I got the caseback off. I could not hear any indication of it moving inside the movement. Not only that, but it's buttery smooth... the slightest angle and it flies over to the other side, spinning smoothly. The crown winding seems smooth as well, very nice tactile feedback and very solid feeling... genlike. I really like it.
 
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KJ2020

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I just received my VRF 116710.

Thanks for the pics and comments. I'm sure others would be interested in knowing about your luck with the ARF 116622 bracelet so please post back.

The rotor screw cover is stuck on with a thin (but strong) piece of double-sided tape. It usually takes something metal like a jeweler's screwdriver to lift it up enough to get a toothpick under it. Be careful as they scratch and bend quite easily. I never put them back on what's the point?

Let's see some more pics when you can! A clear closeup of the top rehaut ledge would be great to see. Previous images of those they were kinda rough looking. Wondering if that's changed. I will be ordering one soon. Thanks!
 

sickopsycho

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Previous images of those they were kinda rough looking.

It's still a little rough, but I can't see it unless I'm looking for it. I'll post some more pictures tomorrow after I get a little more time on it, but this one shows it pretty well.
Best way I can describe it is it looks sort of matte silver until you put magnification on it, then you see the rough finish. I understand from reading that it can be removed and very lightly polished, so I might give that a shot.
 
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KJ2020

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It's still a little rough, but I can't see it unless I'm looking for it. I'll post some more pictures tomorrow after I get a little more time on it, but this one shows it pretty well.
UsLsQ.jpg

Best way I can describe it is it looks sort of matte silver until you put magnification on it, then you see the rough finish. I understand from reading that it can be removed and very lightly polished, so I might give that a shot.

Thanks bro, that pic shows perfectly well what I was referring to, no other pics needed of that. Indeed it can be sanded down, all of it needs to be lowered to the deepest gouge, then rebrushed to a nice satin finish. It's not hard at all and doesn't take very long. The bezel and crystal need to come off though which is an additional task but really the VRF crystal isn't great so a swap is usually in the cards anyway.
 
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sickopsycho

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The bezel and crystal need to come off though which is an additional task but really the VRF crystal isn't great so a swap is usually in the cards anyway.
Yup, crystal is on my list of things to do. Is prof still around? Heard he may have pursued other interests or something... I am trying to avoid paying gen prices if at all possible. Black hole would only cost around half as much, if I remember correctly.
 

KJ2020

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Yup, crystal is on my list of things to do. Is prof still around? Heard he may have pursued other interests or something... I am trying to avoid paying gen prices if at all possible. Black hole would only cost around half as much, if I remember correctly.

Yes he is still in the biz. Best contact is through email

[email protected]
 

wNe

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Guys, what do you think about this.

Im going with the VRF 3185 movement, is it necessary or would it a good upgrade to add a full gen autowind module? (3135-145 should fit right?)

Or not worth it ?
 
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