Ahhh... back to my favorite thread. Q5? R2, can we make this thread a sticky already.... considering how much thought, analysis, discussion and debate has been invested in this thread, doesn't this warrant a sticky. I personally think this thread is has a lot more info in it than the SSD thread that has a sticky. Just a suggest. . . . .
I am constantly amazed at how much thought people are putting into their builds. I have had this rep back from my WM for five days now and I have worn my BPSD for four of those days. Since I change watches more often than I change underwear, that's quite an accomplishment and says a lot about my feelings on this watch. I am not saying this rep is perfect, but aside of the 50 plus reps that have passed through my hands in the last year, this has to at least be in the top 5 OTB reps (I do consider it to still be OTB even if we add on a TC bracelet for $40.00, since it's such a cheap and easy upgrade that it doesn't make sense not to do it). With just a little DIY TLC, the BPSD is very close to the level of a TC Sub, for half the price.
Guys, before you start planning on modding this watch (TC bracelet excepted), my advice is to buy it and wear it for a while. I have a clark bezel insert, but I didn't bother to use it because the BP insert is better in every respect. Anyone that said that the print on the BP bezel is too bold is not looking at the same watch that I bought. There are enough comparative pictures in this thread to back this claim up and then some!
Is it worth it to upgrade to a TC dial??? If you're super anal maybe, but for just plain old anal WISers like me, the answer is a firm "NO". The BP dial is just fine. The DW has a nice bevel, print quality is good and the markers are fine (including the silver borders). The lume is also very strong. The only issue some might have is that the print on the dial isn't raised enough (this is 30x loupe type shit) and the lume is a tiny bit too grey in normal lighting (not noticeable at all unless you're looking at the watch side by side with a gen). The hands are are also a bit more grey looking than the gen and a just a touch more so than the hour markers. If it bothers you, it is easy enough to swap hands. Installing a TC dial requires shaving the case (or dial), which is a bit more involved. IMO, it's not worth the effort and I am fine with BP hands.
Now, I just want to correct a previous misconception that I was under and has been repeated often (including by me) throughout the thread: Many respected members hae said that the SD 16600 did not have an LEC on the crystal. This is FALSE. My WM (who worked for Rolex) corrected my misconception. All SD 16600 made in 2003 forward have an LEC on the crystal. The LEC is usually located at ninety degrees from the cyclops on a rolex crystal. There was no process in place early on to line up the LEC perfect on no-cyclops crystals, so on many Daytonas, Explorer 1's, ND subs and SD's made before 2005, the LEC could be found anywhere--not necessarily at 6. Later on, Rolex tightened their standards so that even on non-cyclops crystals, the LEC appears at 6. Here's a picture of a gen SD with LEC:
The fact that the BPSD does not have an LEC means little to me though because a real LEC should not be visible anyway. The only visible LEC's are the crappy LEC's on older reps. I'll skip the LEC and enjoy the amazing quality, gen spec crystal that comes with the BPSD!