For those of you that have replaced the click spring, which one did you go with? Mine didn't come with one, and the entire bezel was glued into place, but i added a WSO click spring, and it's either not long enough, or the bezel feel on this is extremely loose.
@Thrasher If I'm not mistaken, you have Adrians click spring, how does the turning feel compared to your older TC sub? I just got a V6 sub, and to be honest, it's not
that much more different from the V7X that I had before. I'm just trying to tighten the bezel feel a little bit. Thanks!
The problem with both the TC, WSO and for that matter, the Clark is that they are all made for gen. For some unknown reason BP drill there click post hole in the case bigger. This means that if you fit one of the above clicks you will always have at minimum "backlash" in the click. In short the spring moves in the hole.
Secondly, the above are just not a big enough in section of spring to imply the force required to register the bezel accurately.
Thirdly, a gen bezel has the centre of the teeth cut perpendicular to the bezel diameter, the BP bezel has it teeth cut at around 25 degrees to the bezel diameter (sloping) hence the really long click on some models.
Fourthly, every BP SD has some amount of play between the bezel and running ring on the case, this varies dramatically.
Fithly, please remember, you are buying clicks that are meant for the 16610 sub, not an SD. The gen click on the SD is stiffer than the 16610. It was specifically designed to be stiffer, so it wasn't accidentally moved whilst diving.
So to get the perfect click, you need 0.9mm st/st Spring wire ( to fit the case post hole correctly) , it needs to strike the teeth at an angle of around 25 degrees, ( to match the bezel teeth angle) . It needs to be custom made ( to suite each individual bezel) and it should be stiffer than a 16610
Long post for such a simple item, but the devil is in the detail.
Hope this helps