Can you elaborate? Its worth the 50$ difference?
It is worth the difference in cost, that's for sure.
Keep in mind it is a different model bracelet meant for the sub vs the sd. It has different engravings and brushed sides vs polished.
Can you elaborate? Its worth the 50$ difference?
I don't get the point... So you are saying its better the SD one?It is worth the difference in cost, that's for sure.
Keep in mind it is a different model bracelet meant for the sub vs the sd. It has different engravings and brushed sides vs polished.
I don't get the point... So you are saying its better the SD one?
Ops I finally got it...jeeze, no. I'm saying the tc v6 bracelet is better made and feel than the tc sd bracelet. But the tc v6 bracelet is the wrong bracelet for the sd 16600, under close inspection it has different engravings and brushed side of the links.
Get the sides polished and done.jeeze, no. I'm saying the tc v6 bracelet is better made and feel than the tc sd bracelet. But the tc v6 bracelet is the wrong bracelet for the sd 16600, under close inspection it has different engravings and brushed side of the links.
I don't have a tc v6 braceletGet the sides polished and done.
Ops I finally got it...
Well, while I order and wait a TC sub I think I'm going to order one BPSD 2813.
If TC SD bracelet SEL is OK and overall is an improvement over the BP I think its a good buy, over 200$ all to make my wait a little funny.
AFAIK they are all the same talking about BP.hey guys i have a question, is the externals for all variants of the BP SD the same? ie between the A2836 and 21J ? apart from the movement are they the same watch dial, case, bracelet etc ?
Also, are there any versions with a correct, centred date wheel alignment?
Thanks in advance guys, I was gunning for a TC v7 extreme but might just settle for the BP SD. love how the crystal sticks outpure character!
AFAIK they are all the same talking about BP.
The best start for me is to get the 2813 if you are willing to make any mods on it. Save the extra $$ for mod parts.
Or...
Get the eta clone and a TC bracelet and it's done. You don't need more mods, and maybe without mods it's still a beater.
BP Factory Sea Dweller is 16600 the Classic model. No blues or Ceramics or 116600 in here.
You are going to want to use a 2836 with an h4 hand height. You probably won't be able to use the stock hands so you'll need tc lv v3 hands. I think the crown you are okay to leave, but I would switch for a gen or tc crown and tube set.After 315 pages of thread I'm going to order a BPSD from Sead, with 2824, and a TC bracelet (Still not sure what model, probably the sub one)
Then, the next logical step for me is to change the movement, and I still have one question:
I plan to buy and (probably make this myself) change movement to gen ETA 2824-2.
Can I use the stock hands/crown/etc on it? or, what's the way to go?
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You are going to want to use a 2836 with an h4 hand height. You probably won't be able to use the stock hands so you'll need tc lv v3 hands. I think the crown you are okay to leave, but I would switch for a gen or tc crown and tube set.
First of all thanks for the great replies you made all over the forum and this thread.
I'm a watchmaker amateur, I'll take this as a self learning project.
I wonder why not use eta 2824-2 as a 1:1 replacement instead of 2836 (daydate?) ,due to hand height?
I know that it will be an step forward if I use TC parts (crown, tube,...), my goal is to go slowly, step by step.
My plan is:
- -Get an BPSD
- -Change bracelet (TC)
- -Change movement (because I want to learn about that) (ETA)
- -At the same time if required or in next stage change hands, crown, tube (TC)
- -To rob a bank and go gen parts.
Thanks for the elaborate post you made, I'll try to look for a 2836 movement. Obviously I'll have to fit it without the spacer I suppose.Your list is fine from item1 to 2. To answer your question on whether you can use a Swiss eta 2824-2 as a direct replacement for the clone in the SD , yes you can.
However you will have to use the hands that came with the watch, TC's (or others) will not have long enough hand tubes to fit a standard configuration (#2) swiss eta 2824-2.
You may also come across issues with the DWO and the actual movement datewheel.
Your other option would be, either buy or convert a swiss eta 2824-2 to #4 pinion height, this would then allow you to fit TC's hands.
There is a post showing the hands and extended hand tubes within this thread. My preference is a 2836-2 for this watch, better date change and they already come as a stock item configured to #4 pinion height, so any swiss 2836-2 will have this stack height,
If I were you I would get a swiss 2836-2, pop that in with a TC DWO and practice your watchmaking on the clone.
This might be the best photo in the entire thread![]()
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Two "blackies" together.![]()
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