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BP Factory Rolex 16710 GMT Full Review VS Gen

TerryRobot

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13/9/15
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Great review and certainly full of information, Im considering the Gen Coke but am still torn between the pepsi, also torn between the older faded alu bezel versions, so thought maybe going for a rep first might help me decide I know this post if old now but has anyone got any thoughts on the later version of this model from Trusty is from BPF factory (not BP Factory not sure if that is any different or not) The case does have the edges chamfer which Id rather not have if im honest but some of the gens Ive looked at seem to have this anyway and I believe it can be after service and polishing) Anyway I was thinking of getting the coke and try sot see if it was possible to change the bezel insert to a Pepsi but also a faded version of the coke and pepsi, so was wondering if anyone has any information on this newer version, it seems to already be thinner at 12.1mm based on this orginal post, I did think the gen seemed more sleek in comparison to some of the other reps I have seen since starting to look, everyday is a schools so they say, thanks in advance
 

Snil

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18/8/20
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Nordic
Have BP made any more updates with the new VR3186 besides what I assume is a fixed crown position?
Is thickness still the same?
 

Baccaracca669

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Share some pics please, I’m on my way of doing almost the same build. Did you swap the movement to a VR? How fits the TC bracelet to the case?

Bracelet depends on the serial of the watch but I will not worry about it, saw a lot of them with the long clasp or the single clasp
Hey… may I ask what TC stands for in the TC bracelet? Looks ace by the way! And do you think the gen crown was really worth it as a mod? Thanks so much in advance
 

KJ2020

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I got mine today, it’s absolutely gorgeous and very comfortable. I tried shifting the dial a little but couldn’t get it to move. I loosened the two screws that were shown earlier but maybe I missed a step?


Bro if that's a 3186 movement you can't really do that mod. The movement is larger in diameter so the stem is shorter and has no give to it. It's not really an advisable mod anyway, but an ETA stem can tolerate some slight bending.
 

Snil

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Bro if that's a 3186 movement you can't really do that mod. The movement is larger in diameter so the stem is shorter and has no give to it. It's not really an advisable mod anyway, but an ETA stem can tolerate some slight bending.
Yes it’s the 3186 and no there were no tolerances lol. Then it is what it is, thank you
 

meiser

Getting To Know The Place
24/10/23
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I have a recent BP 16710, which has a thickness of 13 mm. I have been searching for a slimmer caseback that fits the dimensions. I ordered one from China and installed it today.
Ended up on 12.3 mm, which is noticeable closer to the wrist.

I removed the gasket, which was attached to the case back as it would not close properly in the first place. The original caseback also has no gasket, whereas the case itself has a gasket. Is it okay to do so?

And is it possible that this slimmer caseback will somehow block the movement of the rotor?

Original caseback OD: 35.5
Original caseback height: 5
Original caseback thread dia: 30.8

new caseback OD: 35.5
new caseback height: 4
new caseback thread dia: 30.8

Link to the caseback:


 

Steffen3010

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Germany
I have a recent BP 16710, which has a thickness of 13 mm. I have been searching for a slimmer caseback that fits the dimensions. I ordered one from China and installed it today.
Ended up on 12.3 mm, which is noticeable closer to the wrist.

I removed the gasket, which was attached to the case back as it would not close properly in the first place. The original caseback also has no gasket, whereas the case itself has a gasket. Is it okay to do so?

And is it possible that this slimmer caseback will somehow block the movement of the rotor?

Original caseback OD: 35.5
Original caseback height: 5
Original caseback thread dia: 30.8

new caseback OD: 35.5
new caseback height: 4
new caseback thread dia: 30.8

Link to the caseback:


I guess the one for the 40mm version is the correct?
 

meiser

Getting To Know The Place
24/10/23
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To be honest I do not know.

I wrote a message to the shop because the shipment to Germany was not possible via checkout. I sent him the measurements of my caseback and he sent me this measurements and I payed via PayPal and received the caseback after 18 days.
Very responsive seller.
I think if you screw it down further you could even get a few .1 mm lower. But I used the good old rubber ball and did not want to get too tight.

 

KJ2020

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12/3/18
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I have a recent BP 16710, which has a thickness of 13 mm. I have been searching for a slimmer caseback that fits the dimensions. I ordered one from China and installed it today.
Ended up on 12.3 mm, which is noticeable closer to the wrist.

I removed the gasket, which was attached to the case back as it would not close properly in the first place. The original caseback also has no gasket, whereas the case itself has a gasket. Is it okay to do so?

And is it possible that this slimmer caseback will somehow block the movement of the rotor?

Original caseback OD: 35.5
Original caseback height: 5
Original caseback thread dia: 30.8

new caseback OD: 35.5
new caseback height: 4
new caseback thread dia: 30.8

Link to the caseback:



16710 Aftermarket Caseback

That's a nice find bro. It should be fine after removing the included gasket, as the case gasket will handle that task. I wouldn't worry about over tightening as long as there is no hint of cross threading.

There are lots of people looking for this, thanks for posting.

@Zeta7

BTW this caseback tool and a 29.5mm die can be had for really cheap. For years I used the usual long low handle tool but after ruining two dies on a stuck caseback I had to buy some new ones and saw this opener. I love it, so much better. Suggest you buy two dies if you are in this for the long haul. They are good quality but can take a beating with rep parts.

Caseback opener tool

29.5mm caseback dies
 
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meiser

Getting To Know The Place
24/10/23
33
123
33
That's a nice find bro. It should be fine after removing the included gasket, as the case gasket will handle that task. I wouldn't worry about over tightening as long as long as there is no hint of cross threading.

There are lots of people looking for this, thanks for posting.

@Zeta7

BTW this caseback tool and a 29.5mm die can be had for really cheap. For years I used the usual long low handle tool but after ruining two dies on a stuck caseback I had to buy some new ones and saw this opener. I love it, so much better. Suggest you buy two dies if you are in this for the long haul. They are good quality but can take a beating with rep parts.

Caseback opener tool

29.5mm caseback dies
Thank you very much for your reply!

Credits go to @TerryRobot, who gave me the hint to this caseback (y)
 
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meiser

Getting To Know The Place
24/10/23
33
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Bad news: Watch stopped ticking today after 48 hours. (n) So I guess the rotor was blocked. Movement was manually wound now and is working.
I opened the caseback and the rotor is able to move. So I put the provided gasket back in the caseback hoping, that it might bring back the needed height for the rotor to spin. Measured 12.5 mm.
I will give an update in a few days. The movement is a „true clone 3186“, based on the SA3135 and not the VR3186 of that matters in terms of movement height. Thanks to KJ for identification.
 
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KJ2020

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Bad news: Watch stopped ticking today after 48 hours. (n) So I guess the rotor was blocked. Movement was manually wound now and is working.
I opened the caseback and the rotor is able to move. So I put the provided gasket back in the caseback hoping, that it might bring back the needed height for the rotor to spin. Measured 12.5 mm.
I will give an update in a few days. The movement is a „true clone 3186“, based on the SA3135 and not the VR3186 of that matters in terms of movement height. Thanks to KJ for identification.

I think the extra gasket might just prevent the caseback from seating fully. It's between the two sets of threads so how far down can it actually go?

If you are so inclined you can try sanding or grinding the inside of the caseback. This can be done by hand or with a dremel, then smooth finish by hand. There should be enough caseback material to remove 0.5mm, maybe more. I would try this for sure if it was mine and the other gasket doesn't work. I don't really care about the inner caseback engravings and strict neatness doesn't count, haha.

Put the caseback in a case holder, wrap some 400 grit over the end of a round tool end and whirl away like turning a crank. Or just wrap the paper over a finger and whale away on it.

Same approach as sanding an insert, different paper placement
ji1qDF.jpg
 
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matthewused

Do not accept unsolicited offers
12/10/22
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I have a recent BP 16710, which has a thickness of 13 mm. I have been searching for a slimmer caseback that fits the dimensions. I ordered one from China and installed it today.
Ended up on 12.3 mm, which is noticeable closer to the wrist.

I removed the gasket, which was attached to the case back as it would not close properly in the first place. The original caseback also has no gasket, whereas the case itself has a gasket. Is it okay to do so?

And is it possible that this slimmer caseback will somehow block the movement of the rotor?

Original caseback OD: 35.5
Original caseback height: 5
Original caseback thread dia: 30.8

new caseback OD: 35.5
new caseback height: 4
new caseback thread dia: 30.8

Link to the caseback:



Hello Meiser
I just purchased the case back that you recommended on the link you published, I just purchased a stock 16710 bp, so can you confirm that it is compatible and that it lowers the thickness of the entire case? Thank you
 

meiser

Getting To Know The Place
24/10/23
33
123
33
Hello Meiser
I just purchased the case back that you recommended on the link you published, I just purchased a stock 16710 bp, so can you confirm that it is compatible and that it lowers the thickness of the entire case? Thank you

Hello Matthew,

if you look at my recent post you will see, that the movement stopped working after I installed the caseback. Think the rotor got blocked.


Bad news: Watch stopped ticking today after 48 hours. (n) So I guess the rotor was blocked. Movement was manually wound now and is working.
I opened the caseback and the rotor is able to move. So I put the provided gasket back in the caseback hoping, that it might bring back the needed height for the rotor to spin. Measured 12.5 mm.
I will give an update in a few days. The movement is a „true clone 3186“, based on the SA3135 and not the VR3186 of that matters in terms of movement height. Thanks to KJ for identification.


I tried to grind down some of the material on the inside with the tools I have at home. But I could not really remove enough material. Will have to use a lathe, which I do not have. If this will be done I will report it here.
 

Zen_der

Known Member
15/10/23
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Bad news: Watch stopped ticking today after 48 hours. (n) So I guess the rotor was blocked. Movement was manually wound now and is working.
I opened the caseback and the rotor is able to move. So I put the provided gasket back in the caseback hoping, that it might bring back the needed height for the rotor to spin. Measured 12.5 mm.
I will give an update in a few days. The movement is a „true clone 3186“, based on the SA3135 and not the VR3186 of that matters in terms of movement height. Thanks to KJ for identification.
sorry for the ot, but I put the same case back on an ARF 16610. The watch was stopped and completely unloaded. Moving the wrist he started to move even if for a little while. I assume the rotor is spinning?
 

Hinclimincli

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Hello Matthew,

if you look at my recent post you will see, that the movement stopped working after I installed the caseback. Think the rotor got blocked.





I tried to grind down some of the material on the inside with the tools I have at home. But I could not really remove enough material. Will have to use a lathe, which I do not have. If this will be done I will report it here.

If it’s not a VR but a SH, check that the reversing wheels are actually doing their job. It would not be the first SH3135 where these two aren’t winding the movement even with the rotor spinning. Also, be careful if sanding the rotor as you might remove too much metal thus making it lighter and it won’t have enough inertia to spin. On a positive note, these issues are what makes you learn and improve your watchsmith skills. Good luck!
 
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Ilikram

Do not accept unsolicited offers
13/8/24
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Does anyone know whether one of markiemarks bracelets would work on a BP 16710 with the vr3186 movement?


Looking specifically at the 78790A bracelet.

Also if anyone can suggest quality bracelets that would work, if this one doesnt, I am all ears.

Thank you