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ARF SD43 904L 126600 review (many pics)
- Thread starter m5smg2
- Start date
If you don’t see any obvious flaws then just accept and look forward to its arrival. I wouldn’t go posting on the forums looking for feedback since you probably won’t receive a warm welcome lol.
On a positive note, that watch looks fantastic. The updated insert and bezel teeth really look great and IMO almost brings this watch into super rep territory if not all the way...
Now hopefully they fix the mag on the cyclop and it will be perfect
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Thank you very much! Really appreciated
I was a Noob a couple years ago. Now after two years I feel I am just a little above a Noob. The best thing to do is read as much as you can. If you pick a watch from the major factories, read the reviews, and subscribe to the threads of interest you will enjoy the hobby. I have bought many watches over the last two years. I only have two disappointments because I didn't follow my own rule of staying with the big factories.
Gildabah
Getting To Know The Place
- 5/10/17
- 48
- 4
- 8
hey guys i need your help,i pay attention to somthing strang of the cyclop of mineת its look like a crack ,but its not!it like under the cyclop, the area around its pretty smooth ,i never seen this before in the QC pics (the watch is new, got it befor two days ) its look like glue (????)or somthing i dont know , what should i do?
QC
QC
New SD43 by GMF. Thoughts?
http://trustytimestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=18479
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http://trustytimestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=18479
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gildabah
Getting To Know The Place
- 5/10/17
- 48
- 4
- 8
A member started a thread about this. Upon my observation this is what i found.
1. Pearl on the ARF more gen like
2. Lume is brighter and more evenly applied on the ARF
3. Rehaut engraving looks sharper on ARF
4. Red "SEA-DWELLER" text on ARF is more vibrant and gen like
I'm no expert though but IMO ARF looks better.
On the "GMF" - I see zero reason to buy that over current ARF - to me if you were thinking to upgrade movement to gen Swiss ETA I could see that as a reason - but other than that I can't think or see the "why" behind the GMF over ARF..
On the ARF cyclops pic - to me - it seems that the "sonic welded" crystal is separating from the flat crystal - which can happen - like if dropped or hit.
There are some members who have chosen to pop off the cyclops on their own because they prefer the "normal flat crystal" - I was thinking about that before my ARF arrived since I have been a no-date no-cyclops Roli guy up to now since I hate to do a 1st day month date change.
After my ARF SD arrived and I wore it a couple of days - I like the look and my V1-Euro-stock-vendor-avail - the cyclops and DW are A-OK for me.
You can search and PM others how they "heated" and "popped off" the cyclops - if I was "thinking" about doing it - I was thinking for me along the lines of using my bench adjustable temp soldering iron/burner at Med temp - with chisel tip heating the cyclops for maybe a minute - then a prompt sideways tap at one long seam with one of my sharp edge caseback tools with jewelers brass hammer.. but I didn't need to go forward with that experiment so I can't vouch for the validity of my thinking..
On the ARF cyclops pic - to me - it seems that the "sonic welded" crystal is separating from the flat crystal - which can happen - like if dropped or hit.
There are some members who have chosen to pop off the cyclops on their own because they prefer the "normal flat crystal" - I was thinking about that before my ARF arrived since I have been a no-date no-cyclops Roli guy up to now since I hate to do a 1st day month date change.
After my ARF SD arrived and I wore it a couple of days - I like the look and my V1-Euro-stock-vendor-avail - the cyclops and DW are A-OK for me.
You can search and PM others how they "heated" and "popped off" the cyclops - if I was "thinking" about doing it - I was thinking for me along the lines of using my bench adjustable temp soldering iron/burner at Med temp - with chisel tip heating the cyclops for maybe a minute - then a prompt sideways tap at one long seam with one of my sharp edge caseback tools with jewelers brass hammer.. but I didn't need to go forward with that experiment so I can't vouch for the validity of my thinking..
Here are two video links using two approaches to remove a cyclops. One more daring than the other.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jz5tUFqfLZ0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycgh7GM8kMc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jz5tUFqfLZ0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycgh7GM8kMc
Just got mine but am seriously considering releasing it. A tad too big for my small hands
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