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ARF GMT 116710 SH3186 photo review

KJ2020

KJ2020

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Dissemination said:
So I know others have voiced their opinions, but just curious as to what your opinion is- how close is ARF's bezel assembly to gen? I have a gen insert, and I have an entire 5 piece bezel assembly as well. But wondering how worth the whole assembly is. Just wondering what your 2 cents are.

I keep going back and forth, but I think the ARF with VR movement makes sense for sure as ARF has better case and bracelet.
Click to expand...

Personally I would not spend the money on a gen bezel or insert to replace the ARF bezel components. They are all gen-spec. There have been a few reports of a marker paint issue, the one I have is flawless. For me, if I had a marker paint issue I would do a paint mod for 50 cents worth of paint and 90 minutes of work. If that isn't feasible or desirable, I could see using a gen insert since the ARF insert is cut slightly deep. However, now you get into the scenario where you have to snap fit a gen insert into an ARF bezel which would be risky. I would be nervous doing it for myself and absolutely would not do it for someone else. I've heard others (misiekped, occb2) say the same thing. So, the safe approach would be all or nothing gen bezel and insert.

Both these inserts were paint modded more than a year ago. I wouldn't be any happier with gen inserts/ bezels on them knowing I was ~$1K poorer. But we all have to choose our own level of satisfaction.

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Saul Goodman

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KJ2020 said:
Both these inserts were paint modded more than a year ago. I wouldn't be any happier with gen inserts/ bezels on them knowing I was ~$1K poorer. But we all have to choose our own level of satisfaction.

]
Click to expand...


What paintmod did you do to it? Is it your krylon paint mod or did you have it platinum plated by someone?
 
KJ2020

KJ2020

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Saul Goodman said:
What paintmod did you do to it? Is it your krylon paint mod or did you have it platinum plated by someone?
Click to expand...

These were both done with Molotow. It was before I tried the Krylon spray mod, which is longer lasting. I never touch my bezels except to realign them if they get bumped off center or to clean them gently if needed. I take care not to touch the marker paint. I also do not get them wet or expose them to dirt, grease, etc.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...68-my-molotow-cocktail-with-springs-and-balls
 
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KJ2020

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More recently I discovered the Posca paint pen, which I like more than Molotow because you can apply the paint right to the markers. It dries more evenly than Molotow, even in a GMT triangle. Those are a PITA to do with Molotow. Posca pens are also great for minor touch ups. The color is an acceptable match to both Molotow and Krylon 'Bright Aluminum'.

For cleaning off excess, take a q-tip and pull off much of the tuft to leave a thin, solid layer of cotton. Dip it in alcohol and squeeze out most of the liquid leaving an alcohol DAMP cotton layer on a stick. Swipe it horizontally across the insert flats, pulling the excess paint away. When it's almost all gone, use a damp alcohol wipe to finish cleaning it up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JV...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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tom86

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Applying the Molotow can be a headache, you're right. However, together with the pen I ordered a 1mm replacement tip, and with that I could apply it directly to the insert. It dried evenly, and still lasts even after three months (didn't wash or rub it, that's true). It's a Sub, not sure about the results on a GMT bezel, never tried it.
 
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Dissemination

Dissemination

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KJ2020 said:
Personally I would not spend the money on a gen bezel or insert to replace the ARF bezel components. They are all gen-spec. There have been a few reports of a marker paint issue, the one I have is flawless. For me, if I had a marker paint issue I would do a paint mod for 50 cents worth of paint and 90 minutes of work. If that isn't feasible or desirable, I could see using a gen insert since the ARF insert is cut slightly deep. However, now you get into the scenario where you have to snap fit a gen insert into an ARF bezel which would be risky. I would be nervous doing it for myself and absolutely would not do it for someone else. I've heard others (misiekped, occb2) say the same thing. So, the safe approach would be all or nothing gen bezel and insert.

Both these inserts were paint modded more than a year ago. I wouldn't be any happier with gen inserts/ bezels on them knowing I was ~$1K poorer. But we all have to choose our own level of satisfaction.
Click to expand...

Appreciate your insight, as per usual. I have gen hands, dial, datewheel, crystal already. My goal is to go as much Franken as possible, simply because this is my first project from the ground up (Misiekped is building it, but it was still fun sourcing the parts). I've gone back and forth between VRF and ARF, and if I went VRF, that's why I had the full assembly. Plus, I'd like to think the parts would appreciate in value, even if it hurts my wallet now. You know, more "gen like experience" lol. But since I've been leaning towards ARF now, I'm thinking of just returning the assembly. But I'd still keep the insert since I have all the other gen cosmetic stuff. Anyways, your paint mods look excellent. I might have to try my hand at that- not a crafty guy like that but I like challenges- and saving money lol.
 
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KJ2020

KJ2020

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Dissemination said:
Appreciate your insight, as per usual. I have gen hands, dial, datewheel, crystal already. My goal is to go as much Franken as possible, simply because this is my first project from the ground up (Misiekped is building it, but it was still fun sourcing the parts). I've gone back and forth between VRF and ARF, and if I went VRF, that's why I had the full assembly. Plus, I'd like to think the parts would appreciate in value, even if it hurts my wallet now. You know, more "gen like experience" lol. But since I've been leaning towards ARF now, I'm thinking of just returning the assembly. But I'd still keep the insert since I have all the other gen cosmetic stuff. Anyways, your paint mods look excellent. I might have to try my hand at that- not a crafty guy like that but I like challenges- and saving money lol.
Click to expand...

I don't see why one couldn't install the gen insert into an ARF bezel without using the ARF's insert retaining ring. That's the piece that facilitates the pressure snap fit. So you would then need to adhere the insert into the bezel well, using either epoxy or the 3M tape ring(s). Might need 2 tape rings or even a thin metal spacer in a tape ring sandwich to add thickness after removing the insert retaining ring. Adhering a gen insert to a rep bezel is what has to be done anyway when using other factory's bezels - Noob, VRF, BP, etc.

I've used this technique before to make a thin aftermarket insert sit flush with the bezel rim. The 3M tape rings are crazy strong, I've never been able to get one apart without a lot of careful slicing and prying from beneath after removing the bezel. With a gen insert, I would sooner just use JB Weld epoxy. You can soften epoxy up to separate the insert later if desired by soaking the bezel in acetone in a tray at a level that reaches the glue but doesn't reach the marker cutouts.

But since you already have the bezel too, I'd probably just use it if you want to use the insert. If you choose the insert only glue-it-on approach, I wouldn't swim with it unless it's epoxied. JB Weld will hold it permanently for swimming. The tape rings will suffer a reduction of adhesion over time with repeated water exposure.
 
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Oascom

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KJ2020

KJ2020

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oascom said:
It's pressure fitted but I used some little drops of hypocement glue just in case as it's not as tight fitted as zzf insert.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification. It's a remarkable build bro, awesome work!
 
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bootlegboy

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I’m curious. Is the ARF readily available now? Been wanting one for ages now.
 
KJ2020

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remix2040 said:
I’m curious. Is the ARF readily available now? Been wanting one for ages now.
Click to expand...

This one came recently from Prof. He obtains pieces then fits them with his crystals and resells them on Repgeeks. It belongs to a friend, I have it to install a VR3185 when the movement arrives.

Y66B4.jpg


I get emails from TDs, this latest one from Trusty says ARF has not yet reopened.

"Factories that have started operations is GF, NOOB, XF, VSF, V6, OMF, ZZF, BP & GMF Factory and some others. AR & JF has not opened yet. VRF should be returning soon too. Other small Factories have also started operations."
 
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fradic

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KJ2020 said:
This one came recently from Prof. He obtains pieces then fits them with his crystals and resells them on Repgeeks. It belongs to a friend, I have it to install a VR3185 when the movement arrives.

Y66B4.jpg


I get emails from TDs, this latest one from Trusty says ARF has not yet reopened.

"Factories that have started operations is GF, NOOB, XF, VSF, V6, OMF, ZZF, BP & GMF Factory and some others. AR & JF has not opened yet. VRF should be returning soon too. Other small Factories have also started operations."
Click to expand...

That crystal is so tilted... Look at the crown etched at 6...
 
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fradic said:
That crystal is so tilted... Look at the crown etched at 6...
Click to expand...

All you need to do is to pop it off and get it aligned. It’s easy, cheap and there is absolutely no reason to get crazy for that
 
KJ2020

KJ2020

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fradic said:
That crystal is so tilted... Look at the crown etched at 6...
Click to expand...

Arguably the crystal could be rotated 1/2 degree (that's 1/2 of a minute tic space) anti-clockwise. But the cyclops upper and lower edges are not exactly parallel, so that would just change the unparallel cyclops edge to the top one instead of the bottom one. Only one cyclops edge can be parallel to the date window edges. This wouldn't bring the LEC fully centered, it's off more than that.

The real problem is that when the cyclops was glued on it wasn't placed exactly 90 degrees anti-clockwise from the LEC center so there is almost 91 degrees of separation between center LEC and center cyclops. Once again perfection eludes us in the rep world, sigh. It's far less visible to the eye than most rep LECs, fortunately. Hard to see even a foot away IRL unless the viewing angle and the light are just right.

13lss.jpg
 
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