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To each their own, of course. 904L is just whiter in color. You can even see it in the rehaut - it’s brighter. And not just because I have both metals on hand (same factory, same brushing) but because I see how 904L comes alive in the sun in a way 316 can’t.
To be honest, if everyone could immediately tell the difference Angus probably wouldn’t bother to show us results from his spectroscope lol. The rep factories have apparently been selling mixes of 316L clasps and bracelets with 904L cases and nobody new the difference. Makes me want to chemical test my 904 watches now lol
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I do agree that 904L has slightly brighter appearance in natural light and it mainly comes down to how the material reacts with light after its surface is cut. I think I look at so much stainless I just don’t pay much attention anymore lol.
Rolex also use a different technique to get the shiny surface finish of their rehaut, it drove me crazy trying to mimic that on the 6 digit reps but the machining feed rate used is poor so its almost impossible with out damaging the engravings. I even used our SRM ( surface roughness machine ) to find out haha. There’s a large measurable difference between the rehaut surface finish compared to the case/ bracelet finish on a gen Rolex..... its similar but definitely not as far apart for the v3 ARF case I had.
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I think I know what you mean. The first ARF Sub C rehauts were a little rough and dull. I had tried using a Cape Cod polishing cloth for a just few light passes on the rehaut, careful not to dull the engravings. It gave the rehaut some sheen and looked a little smoother, but without removing the crystal is was messy to clean out with soapy water. Not worth the trouble unless you remove the crystal..
I think I know what you mean. The first ARF Sub C rehauts were a little rough and dull. I had tried using a Cape Cod polishing cloth for a just few light passes on the rehaut, careful not to dull the engravings. It gave the rehaut some sheen and looked a little smoother, but without removing the crystal is was messy to clean out with soapy water. Not worth the trouble unless you remove the crystal..
Got mine the other day!
Love it!
Can't wait to get the gen dw installed.
Only kinda thing about it is the bezel has a little wiggle with it
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Got mine the other day!
Love it!
Can't wait to get the gen dw installed.
Only kinda thing about it is the bezel has a little wiggle with it
Hi buddy first of all congrats with your KERMIT!
looks good and what’s exactly wiggle maybe you should pull the bezel of and pop it on again?
hopefully it’s nothing serious.
But any way enjoy your green frog!
I have ordered mine last week and should arrive next week,can’t wait
I have gen xtal,movement,DW,crown waiting for this baby.
Anyone knows if I can use the gen gasket for my xtal,or should I use just the stock ARF?
(Since ARF mostly don’t accept gen gaskets)
And I am also very interested in the inlay color And Pearl. Are compared with the gen..
And like a other member asked wich inlay would be the better of both JF VS ARF?
Sounds like you’re upgrading all the right bits. Did you say gen movement?
Yes the bezel action is not quite as tight and turns with less effort than the JF. But it sits perfectly flush with the case with no gap.
I’m curious on the crystal gasket too and also on the JF when the crystal was upgraded..
[mention]m5smg2 [/mention] hey chap,
What’s your thoughts on the insert? Better colour than stock Jf? Worse? No real difference?
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Some will still disagree and say that there is no difference between the two metals. The one who say that are either lacking the basic observational skills or just don't know what they are talking about.
904l and 316l steel, when compared side by side, are easily distinguishable.
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You definitely win with all those gen bits in a true 904L package. And you’ll always have the gen partshere are the parts screaming to be placed in the frog :woohoo:
You definitely win with all those gen bits in a true 904L package. And you’ll always have the gen parts