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16800 build

HulkyGalore

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That is now two really useful tools that you have shown, which I need - or do I? since I won't be building any more watches, right? The last one, really was the last one..... :)
 

APjumbo

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There is never a last one hahahah

These tools are from AliExpress, pretty cheap.
If I struggle with the nylon tweezers to hold the hands I’ll use rodico. It makes it easier to hold but sometimes leaves residue, so I’m trying to force myself to use the tweezers.
 

APjumbo

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I once read on the forums that what makes the hands pop in the sun is when they are close to the crystal

My omegas hands REALLY pop and sparkle in the sun. I think this is the reason. As well as the hands are usually beveled.

I also think this is why TC made such a fuss about using H4 (pinion? Word?) they raise the hands off the dial more than a stock ETA2824

I don’t know what is proper gen wise in a 16800, but this is my watch and when I build I like to keep the hands as high as possible.

Sometimes I use rodico on top of where the hands mount and install the movement up against the crystal to see how much clearance there is. Today I’m just winging it.

You can see I’ve not pressed the hour hand all the way down. That’s how I like it.

Riding high….


 

APjumbo

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Before installing the minute hand I rotate the hour hand around to take up any slack to make sure it’s dead on 12

After installing the minute hand I’ll give it a few turns and check clearance and check that at 3 and 6 the minute hand is right at 12:00

 
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APjumbo

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Seconds hand doesn’t need to be oriented in any particular position

Make sure you manually check clearance with minute hand. Don’t get too excited and run the movement, you don’t want the hands to hit each other and put stress on the movement (I don’t know why, it just doesn’t seem like a good idea)

 
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APjumbo

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IT’S ALIVE !!!!

My baby is born!!!



Now the tricky part
Getting this into the case one last time without fucking the keyless.

I’ve been here several times on other builds only to have to tear the thing apart again. Ugh.
Luckily these 3135 seem more APjumbo proof than a 2824
 
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HulkyGalore

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This is excellent the way you have explained it. I learned from doing it, (with some mistakes!) and even now "get by" with self made tools, but the principles you have outlined are very true. Your pictures and explanations are great for people yet to swap movements or get into watch building. Thankyou!
 
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APjumbo

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I don’t really use movement holders much. Maybe because my Chinese one is crap and never works well. Maybe real watchsmiths use these more for servicing/rebuilding a movement.

I do use mine in this exact situation though, dial and hands on, trying to remove stem. I don’t really want to press down on it with the hands resting on my cushion.
I can do it while holding in the air but that’s usually how I mess up the keyless works.

 

APjumbo

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My daughter found some sunglasses lens cleaner so I’m using that. Usually I use a drop of isopropyl.
I keep meaning to buy the lens cleaning wipes KJ2020 posted about.
Lintless rags from work, don’t tell my boss.

Hold it up to a light
Look at all that dust.



Use a blower thingy to get all those specs out. Then blow off the dial and inspect.


Then drop the case over the dial and grab the whole watch and pillow together and flip over.





These are what KJ2020 uses and everyone knows he’s the man.

 
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APjumbo

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After screwing the keyless on the last 3135 I am now just carefully pushing the stem in without pressing the button. Seems to work great so far on this build.

Get the stem in and centered and happy and screwed down, then tighten the movement screws, remember, the 3135 mounting/movement screws screw OUT, to create tension on the case.




Caseback grease. Important step.


Don’t use your fingers
Use tweezers so you can feel like your a pro and look like you know what you’re doing.
 
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APjumbo

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6 BAR water resistance with a rubber ball?

Yup

I’ll check it with a proper tool but I don’t think it’s necessary and makes removing the caseback later a pain and risks damaging the threads and scratching.

 

APjumbo

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Clicksprings

Startime on left
Supposed gen from reputable eBay seller ($35 plus shipping and duty I think?)
Viet that came with case on right

 
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APjumbo

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I’m trying out the gen clickspring
Honestly the bezel feels tight/dry

Might need some working in, my gen insert for this will be here this week so maybe I’ll do some startime/ Viet/ WSO bezel comparison later this week

For now I’m popping in the ginault insert which clicked in perfectly!

 

APjumbo

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Sooooooo happpy!!!

The movement is smooth and working nicely. I don’t bother to regulate my stuff, can’t be bothered.

Maybe some tritium hands or a MQ light cream lume dial or maybe a gen bezel in the future but for now it’s getting some wrist time.

Happy birthday Mr.16800
 
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APjumbo

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Update: while I still remember.

Bezel action hasn’t been great.
Way too stiff.
Tried using half a bezel washer and it was ok but bezel was a bit loose and click action wasn’t consistent

I used double sided tape and stuck the washer to the underside of a huge socket, sanded it down from about 0.22mm to 0.19 mm

Much better but the click feeling wasn’t nice and sharp like my TC watches.
Not sure what a gen is like but I like the louder clicks, so swapped the gen click spring out with a startime one and it’s way nicer.

Tried a startime bezel on the Viet retaining ring and it’s diameter was such that it would easily fall off.

Tried the Viet bezel on a gen retaining ring and would have had to use way too much force to get it to click into place (on the bench, not on the watch yet)

So for the sake of nice clicky action it’s staying with the Viet retaining ring, ST click spring, sanded Viet washer, and Viet bezel.

Maybe I’ll look for a gen bezel to go with the gen retaining ring I have.

 
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APjumbo

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Oh yah, and the gen insert arrived, clicked into the Viet bezel perfectly, no tape or glue needed, it ain’t going anywhere.


These ice white hands are going to have to get fixed/changed.
I need to find some tritium ones.



If the 16600 incoming is the correct movement I need it will be modded next (16660), and will hopefully get a MQ dial.
I would love to compare a MQ dial and fitment with this mochacha dial.
 
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HulkyGalore

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This is good, liking the progress update. At least there isn't a ceramic to worry about cracking, when messing with these bezels...
 

APjumbo

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This is good, liking the progress update. At least there isn't a ceramic to worry about cracking, when messing with these bezels...
Yah, I know, messing with that ceramic insert makes me nervous, these aluminum inserts are way easier, including the simple bezel assembly design.

I used to like the ceramic stuff but have grown a big appreciation for the less clinical look with the older stuff these days.
 

gunsmoke16610

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Regarding the bezel action maybe something that will help. A method I use to get the action firm but smooth. Hold the click spring with a pin vice and trim it slightly and then sand and refit. For whatever reasons replacement click springs seem to long.
 
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