16800 build

[APjumbo]

Some more goodies arrived
3135 open 6/9 woohoo!

And we are going to see if “gen” click springs work or sound different than startime ones.
So far I “think” the startime ones have worked a little better than the WSO ones, but when swapping the bezel comes off and depending how tight it’s reassembled it may make a difference as well.

Also planning to see if a gen (non blistered) retaining ring is better than startime. I have swapped one already and maybe it’s better, it certainly isn’t worse, but it’s on my 18k 16613 which doesn’t have the best feeling bezel, might have to cut the shim in half later to loosen things up and retry.
I do know I’m not a fan of the recent WSO retaining rings. ST seem looser and smoother.

 

[mclarendude]

*sigh* my weakness, the matte 16800....

 

[APjumbo]

*sigh* my weakness, the matte 16800....

You don’t know this but your comments in every one of these that popped up for sale in the last 4 years is what sparked my interest.

It’s all your fault I’m down this rabbit hole

 

[APjumbo]

Not the insert I’m using but would look great on here with the matte dial.

 

[mclarendude]

You don’t know this but your comments in every one of these that popped up for sale in the last 4 years is what sparked my interest.

It’s all your fault I’m down this rabbit hole

As repayment, should you get tired of the finish build, I expect some notice.

 

[APjumbo]

Here we go, it’s build day!

First step for amateurs
Vacuum the floor below the workspace. I’ve learned the hard way about 6 times when I’m crawling around on my knees with a flashlight. Screws and clicksprings seem to want to not just fly around but stick to my forearm when I’m looking through a loupe and then drop off on the floor below me.



Remove stem. Should probably set to midnight first but I’ve got to swap the date later on after prefitment anyways.



Pull dummy hands off movement
I love these hand removers. I think they came from AliExpress but were maybe $20-30, not the cheaper ones. The cheap ones suck.



Dial feet held with these screws. It makes me nervous because if you strip one of these good luck drilling and removing it. I can never remember if they ship screwed in or out. This one they were screwed in, so carefully unscrew them, look through a loupe.



This is the stock datewheel that came with the Ali VS movement. Horrible that I can see the side of the datewheel. Hopefully this isn’t an issue when I swap it out, but I’m worried because I had read that the 3035 and 3135 have slightly different window positions. (BC1221 commented on this)

 

[APjumbo]

To remove datewheel twist this thingy here and then pull back on the springy thing near 8:00 and carefully lift off.



This rep datewheel on the left compared to a VR3186 wheel from thrillofhunt on the right

 

[APjumbo]

Rep wheel on left
Gen 168000 (3135 open 69) on right ($250 plus shipping and duty)
You know you have watch addiction issues when you pay more for a datewheel then for a whole rep.
I ended up buying three.
The other is for a 16660 and in case I try jamming a VS3135 into a 1665 (I know it’s high beat and there is a slightly different font in a 4 digit but it might be fun to experiment)

 

[APjumbo]

Grrrrrr
Not happy
Why is this date window offset to the right?
Maybe BC1221 is right, maybe the 3035 gen datewheel is wider and bigger and further to the right.

Maybe this dial fits a a2824 better.
I might try a eta 2824 dial if I can find one

 

[HulkyGalore]

Grrrrrr
Not happy
Why is this date window offset to the right?

Is it possible to bend the dial feet the tiniest of amounts to make the dial sit in a slightly different place? On mine it made more difference than I thought was possible. It might work with yours.

 

[APjumbo]

That’s a good idea. I was going to try that to get the height correct as I remember you commenting about that. I didn’t think to try it to get the date centered.
Just going over my date window/dial size notes to try to wrap my head around it.

Is it possible to bend the dial feet the tiniest of amounts to make the dial sit in a slightly different place? On mine it made more difference than I thought was possible. It might work with yours.

 

[APjumbo]

This is the most helpful thread I’ve found on date window positions

Hi. I need some help or advise of 2824-2 date wheel make centering.

I have 16233 case. so install 2824-2. But problem is date wheel position doesn't on the center. So I think buy overlay for 2836-2 and gluing off the 2824-2 date wheel. (Because, I can't find overlay for 2824-2 looks like 3135 movement date wheel) This plan is stupid or can be possible? Please...

forum.replica-watch.info

But I am still confused because my notes say a NH35 and 3135 are similar yet this NH35 dial is way off.
My notes must be wrong.



NOTES from threads:

If I'm reading it correctly, would it be safe to assume that the center of the NH35 date window is at 10.55 vs 11.3 on the Miyota



2813,8215,2824 have same date position (may not be correct)



3135 gen Rolex and NH35 have very similar date window positions

3135 is closer to center then eta



Rolex vs eta date windows

TC dials have gen date position and an overlay DWO on the 2824 movement to align properly.

 

[HulkyGalore]

Loo

This is the most helpful thread I’ve found on date window positions

Hi. I need some help or advise of 2824-2 date wheel make centering.

I have 16233 case. so install 2824-2. But problem is date wheel position doesn't on the center. So I think buy overlay for 2836-2 and gluing off the 2824-2 date wheel. (Because, I can't find overlay for 2824-2 looks like 3135 movement date wheel) This plan is stupid or can be possible? Please...

forum.replica-watch.info

But I am still confused because my notes say a NH35 and 3135 are similar yet this NH35 dial is way off.
My notes must be wrong.

The nh35 should have the window further to the right almost in line with the dial markers. I am sure you have the right one, on the movement. Looking at the centre, from the front on, does the shaft look perfectly central? That might help confirm if moving the feet will help. This one is going to look good!

 

[APjumbo]

@HulkyGalore
Great advice
It’s still not perfect but tolerable.
It would be interesting to see if a $$$ MQ dial has the window a little more left.



I also noticed the dial wasn’t sitting perfectly flush on the 3:00 side. Then remembered what I read about dial feet being too long, so used a teeny tiny file to file the foot down a little.
Nice and flush now.

The date is still a little low but I find (at least on omegas) there is a shadow cast on the date when you hold up your wrist. So I’d much rather a slightly low date number than a high one. It will balance out once it’s together.

Below is the exact same but with the light from above it creates a shadow effect

 

[APjumbo]

Clean the case and blow off the dial
More test fitting

Still not great but this dial may come out to get patina or swapped anyways.

Hands going on tomorrow
Probably shouldn’t have had 4 cups of coffee thiiiis. Moooorning

 

[HulkyGalore]

Looking good, can't wait for pictures with the hands on to see what it will look like.

 

[APjumbo]

First pressure test had several bubbles come from the crown area
So I added a rubber o ring between crown tube and case.
Tested to 6 Bar, only 4 tiny bubbles.
Very nice!

 

[APjumbo]

Hands install

I have a crappy press tool that I tried once and then went back to using the manual hand rod thing.

Set the date till it just clicks to midnight
Sit it on a soft pad to prevent pushing things together too hard, I’m a bit of a brute.
Put 12:00 on the left, nylon tweezers in left hand holding hour hand, press tool in right hand
4X B&L loupe
Press so it’s just barely holding itself on level.
Check it’s exactly at 12:00
Press down until it hovers above the dial.

 

[HulkyGalore]

Wow, what a nice bit of kit.

 

[APjumbo]

I’ve learned the hard way about 6 times, if the hands arn’t level or are too close together, it’s best to just pop them all off and start over.

Every single time I’ve tried “levering” or “ pressing down on the tip of the hand to add clearance” it ends up creasing the hands ever so slightly. Most people probably wouldn’t notice, but when the light reflects off of it, if you know it’s there, it will stand out and drive you nuts that you didn’t take the time to pull all the hands and do it properly.