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1655 Explorer II : Ugly duckling or King of cool ?

Eunomians

Renowned Member
15/3/06
637
418
63
A little over a year ago I took a shot at a '1655' project.
Here is the story, it starts about 8 posts down:


Here is a pic, about 16 posts down:


I wore it for a month or so and took it apart to put the 1570 movement in a 34mm Rlx 1002 case with Yuki 'explorer' dial.
Still have all the '1655' parts handy (except the 1570), so maybe I'll put an ETA 2846 with Asian 24 hour conversion in the case with the same dial.
Also have a Phong '1655' case that I might put another 'shortcut' 1570/75 GMT movement in, a hack movement this time around. The first one with the 1570 was not a hack movement.

It was a LOT of trouble same as the OP's project above but looking back, it was probably worth it because it will make the next one much easier.
Otoh, the same watch using an ETA with Asian 24H conversion or DG 3804 has the same punch for a lot less $$.

Being much simpler and a little bit smaller, a no date, no 24H hand 1016 will always be The Explorer to me. Imho.

You make a very fine argument with using the DG3804 instead of a 1575. I've been wearing my OEM 1675 since the early 90s pretty much daily. I am very accustomed to the BPH of the 1570/5 movement. It ticks nothing like the smoothness of 28000BPH. The DG3804 is 19800BPH but it is very very very close to 18000BPH - I cannot discern a difference between 19800 and 18000 visually. My point is using 28000BPH is a dead giveaway, from afar too. Vintage never ticks smoothly. They actually "tick".

I ended up using DG3804 for my 1655. I've replaced the movement twice lol, they are poorly made, but once you get a good one, they actually are very accurate time-wise. The good news is that there is no need to service one if it goes off the rails. Just buy a new movement for less than $40 and swap. A lot cheaper than a repair/serivce!
 
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369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
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A little over a year ago I took a shot at a '1655' project.
Here is the story, it starts about 8 posts down:


Here is a pic, about 16 posts down:


I wore it for a month or so and took it apart to put the 1570 movement in a 34mm Rlx 1002 case with Yuki 'explorer' dial.
Still have all the '1655' parts handy (except the 1570), so maybe I'll put an ETA 2846 with Asian 24 hour conversion in the case with the same dial.
Also have a Phong '1655' case that I might put another 'shortcut' 1570/75 GMT movement in, a hack movement this time around. The first one with the 1570 was not a hack movement.

It was a LOT of trouble same as the OP's project above but looking back, it was probably worth it because it will make the next one much easier.
Otoh, the same watch using an ETA with Asian 24H conversion or DG 3804 has the same punch for a lot less $$.

Being much simpler and a little bit smaller, a no date, no 24H hand 1016 will always be The Explorer to me. Imho.
great info on your posts thanks for sharing. (y)
 

369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
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Anyhow, you guys get my point :)
Agreed the DG can be finnicky for sure. Once you grease the rotor , they run pretty quiet and no rotor sounds lower beat , that being said Its my least favorite movement I hate the keyless on them , they feel so crude and brutal in its function but it work. I am glad I got it together to my liking so I can stop messing with it. Ive had this thing a part a dozen times to adjust the dial, adjust the date wheel adjust the hand positions and usually when I get things just right. the movement dies...not this time. I must be getting better at this lol
 

Eunomians

Renowned Member
15/3/06
637
418
63
Man you are right about the terrible keyless works with the DG3804! I’ve redone it so many times, with various projects. It’s terribly sensitive and the u-shaped spring knows how to vanish into space like no tomorrow. It’s a nightmare. I am very careful whenever I deal with the stem for time setting, winding etc
 
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arna67

Active Member
Supporter
Certified
27/6/18
303
102
43
I believe Mary still offers these bracelets , I think she is still a TD here.
the one I used was from my original 1655 I bought many moons ago. Its my favorite bracelet. No rivets or screw pins to let go and follow. flat and lower profile that solid oyster and light and jangly. perfect vintage bracelet
Thanks for info, which is the name of TD? Didn't find Mary on the TD list
 

shyreplover

Renowned Member
12/6/06
966
739
93
Nice build with hand picked parts.
Here's mine, far inferior than yours.
K8PgOK.jpeg
 

aphmars13

Renowned Member
Supporter
Certified
4/10/22
776
1,189
93
South of France
Thanks for info, which is the name of TD? Didn't find Mary on the TD list
I think she's no longer in business, I haven't heard back from her, I've sent her several emails about bracelets and bezel...

if I'm not mistaken, it's this address

Work better with this old adress

 
Last edited:
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automatico

Getting To Know The Place
5/10/11
83
152
33
It’s terribly sensitive and the u-shaped spring knows how to vanish into space like no tomorrow. It’s a nightmare.

I have lost a few too.
Finally figured out the U shaped spring goes in last, through the cut-out in the plate that covers the date works.
 

369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
Patron
Certified
7/7/15
3,429
5,962
113
Canada
A little over a year ago I took a shot at a '1655' project.
Here is the story, it starts about 8 posts down:


Here is a pic, about 16 posts down:


I wore it for a month or so and took it apart to put the 1570 movement in a 34mm Rlx 1002 case with Yuki 'explorer' dial.
Still have all the '1655' parts handy (except the 1570), so maybe I'll put an ETA 2846 with Asian 24 hour conversion in the case with the same dial.
Also have a Phong '1655' case that I might put another 'shortcut' 1570/75 GMT movement in, a hack movement this time around. The first one with the 1570 was not a hack movement.

It was a LOT of trouble same as the OP's project above but looking back, it was probably worth it because it will make the next one much easier.
Otoh, the same watch using an ETA with Asian 24H conversion or DG 3804 has the same punch for a lot less $$.

Being much simpler and a little bit smaller, a no date, no 24H hand 1016 will always be The Explorer to me. Imho.
It might be time to get that thing back together now , You have had those parts for ever!! lol
 

Eunomians

Renowned Member
15/3/06
637
418
63
It’s terribly sensitive and the u-shaped spring knows how to vanish into space like no tomorrow. It’s a nightmare.

I have lost a few too.
Finally figured out the U shaped spring goes in last, through the cut-out in the plate that covers the date works.

I’m right there with you in regards to the cut-out on the cover plate. Took me months lol to figure that out! Makes it easier for sure but regardless, the keyless works are definitely a major weak point with the movement.

I am very surprised nobody has pointed out that the spring goes in last thru the cover plate. It’s not a minor tip, it’s a major one.

Cheers
 

369mafia

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thanks @369mafia for making me think of a watch that I absolutely don't need...

but hey it will make a nice travel watch
This hobby is not about needs my friend. lol

I used the case set off some homage that I bought from ebay years ago probably lower grade rep surplus.
it was assembled well and the crown guards and flanks were decent. just needed some shaping at the lug tips and added chamfers and enlarged the lug holes to spec.

I would def recommend starting with a complete cartel watch.
 
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Karbon74

Pika Factory
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EU - Kalos Region
This hobby is not about needs my friend. lol

I used the case set off some homage that I bought from ebay years ago probably lower grade rep surplus.
it was assembled well and the crown guards and flanks were decent. just needed some shaping at the lug tips and added chamfers and enlarged the lug holes to spec.

I would def recommend starting with a complete cartel watch.

this build is making me think that I need to finish that railmaster. The missing crown should arrive by the time I get home. And yes, the railmaster experience was quite humbling ref starting from uncharted tracks
 
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369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
Patron
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7/7/15
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Canada
this build is making me think that I need to finish that railmaster. The missing crown should arrive by the time I get home. And yes, the railmaster experience was quite humbling ref starting from uncharted tracks
Yes , you defiantly need to finish that build so you can start another one for me I "need "a vintage railmaster too , its been on my to do list for along time now :ROFLMAO:
 
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