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NEW NTTD No Time to Die Titanium/Titanium Seamaster 007 Edition
- Thread starter OldNavitimer
- Start date
Hi all
I have bought a V3 NTTD via m2m and would like a genuine NATO to swap out time to time.
Thoughts on the one below?
Polyamide Black and Orange. I'm colourblind btw so not sure if this colour strap clashes with the dial etc.
Many thanks!
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It doesn’t clash, but the centre orange stripes are a touch darker orange than the lume plots. In your photo, the watch’s lume looks unusually orange, where in real life, the plots seem to be creamier.
There’s been much said about the different lighting conditions and how it affects the dial, bezel, and lume colours, though — so it’s probably just the computer render.
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You have to be careful with the nato on this watch in my experience. You may be surprised and find the dark black stripes in the nato just don’t go with the brown hue of the watch. Hopefully the orange will counter that but bear in mind this watch isn’t orange, these natos are designed for the planet oceans. Bright flashes of bold orange. I don’t mean to be negative, I’m just saying it will be interesting to see it in the flesh.
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Thanks! I’ll check out the Naiad function. I know nothing about it!
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freefallrlc
Active Member
- 21/6/15
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A normal caseback has a fine threading and needs several turn to get fixed. So, depending on how tight you screw it on and how much resistance the seal has, it might align not always same and 'crooked.'
the Naiad lock has a much 'rougher' threading. Only quarter turn, if I remember correctly. But you have to use pressure (against the seal ) while screwing it on. And because of the fixed ending on 12 o clock it would align perfectly (unless not screwed on all the way)
Thanks! That clears things up.
I’ve read that a mod that sometimes needs to be made is the installation of a thicker gasket. I’m assuming that the reason this is needed in some but not all V3s is that the case machining is not always as accurate as it could be?
I never take my watch off, so water resistance is a big issue that I’m hoping to ensure. There’s a lot of talk about never swimming with reps, but that’s not going to work for me! Can you confirm that there’s no gasket on the crown? I don’t have the tools to pull the crystal gasket (so I’ll have to trust VSF on their crystal installation), but I can happily throw a thicker gasket on the caseback if it doesn’t feel tight enough.
I’m also planning to heat-treat the V3 mesh and dip in dirty oil to add a grey tone to it to better match the case. It’s not far off colour-wise (from what I can tell in the photos) but it’ll bother me! I’ve heat-treated other brackets in the past and had reasonable success (springs and pins out, of course).
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freefallrlc
Active Member
- 21/6/15
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Seems in general the caseback aligns well. There was talk about not waterproof problems and changing gaskets/adding greese. But I think those were just a few. After all it´s a rep and not all are perfect.
My V2 was waterproof from factory. The new V4 I didn´t check yet. But I think in general they should be waterproof for swimming and align, well. The crown is screwd in and will habe a gasket, I believe. The Helium Valve, no clue. But probably also as it has to waterproof.
heat treating Stainless steel with oil would help with getting it darker? Sound interesting
Thanks for the info.
Yes, heating up stainless (well, all metals, alters their colouring depending upon the heat the metal is brought to. There’s a colour scale for most metals used when hardening or tempering them. In stainless, a number of colours are permanent, but heating to about 220° will add a gentle yellowish colour; plunging the metal in used oil will essentially add carbon to the metal (oddly enough, 316L is carbon reduced for wear and hardness properties). This carbon addition will make the metal slightly darker, but would be only be present for microns at the surface due to the low temperature of the heat-treatment, and so the bracelet would not become case-hardened.
The tricky part is knowing how much to heat it up and how quickly to dunk it in the oil: Too hot and the bracelet would become too dark, as too much carbon would be added; too cold and not enough carbon would be added. In addition, over heating the bracelet could also impede its flexibility. It might be worth buying a second bracelet to practice on. I’ll ask Andrew if he could throw an old bracelet version in.
Can anyone give me the size for the crown gasket, please? I know the caseback needs a 37mm x 0.9mm to oversize it for a good right caseback feel.
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May I get thoughts on a misaligned bezel and regulation of my QC please?
I know parallax issues exist, but the 30 second marker on the bezel looks misaligned in relation to the dial’s 6 marker:
In addition, the case back does not look seated properly to me:
Finally, the regulation is -8spd. Is this excessive for this movement?
V3 from Andrew.
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I know parallax issues exist, but the 30 second marker on the bezel looks misaligned in relation to the dial’s 6 marker:
In addition, the case back does not look seated properly to me:
Finally, the regulation is -8spd. Is this excessive for this movement?
V3 from Andrew.
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It's fine. Nothing is misaligned, the caseback looks screwed on fine and the regulation is fine. No need to fret.
I’ve just GL mine from Andrew but I’m not happy with the -8spd. I’d like to throw in a high-grade ETA and have a guy who can get me one. He’s asked what length tubes I need for the hands (apparently there are different heights).
Can anyone tell me what 28** movement I need and what height for the hand mounts, please? I’ve looked back through the thread, and I know someone mentioned the movement number (but there’s 160 pages of posts, and I can’t seem to find it)!
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Can anyone tell me what 28** movement I need and what height for the hand mounts, please? I’ve looked back through the thread, and I know someone mentioned the movement number (but there’s 160 pages of posts, and I can’t seem to find it)!
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Last edited:
- 23/6/17
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8sek is good, why change? QC Timegrapher Pics are for the Trash..Only thing you can see on them is if there is a big Problem (Amp 180 // beaterror 5 // +45sek a day - for example)
The watches are also mostly not fully wound and you would need a meassuring in different angles for a longer term to get a better result.
I’m an engineer, and though I understand the reps are not built with the same care and attention that a genuine piece would be, I still need my watch to be accurate.
Due to family constraints and the current economic climate with relation to academic employment, I’m not able to pick up gen anything anymore, and can’t sell the Bremont to anyone — so I’m trying to get into a piece that has the aesthetics I want but without the price tag that goes with it (I think this is the motivation to go the rep-route fir most of us).
I’m used to Rolex regulation, but can’t afford Rolex watches anymore. My Bremont has a modified 7750 in it which keeps +2spd, and anything above that isn’t going to work for me. I can source a new high-grade ETA, which could be regulated to perform better than -8spd, so that’s my only real option.
Andrew’s QC info stipulates that those who say that they can regulate a watch better than +/- 10spd are not being honest, and that the movement comes at the very best regulation. I don’t know that that’s true; I imagine that a serviced movement could do better (we all know that they’re dirty and may not be oiled), but it implies that there’s a limit to the construction of the movement that prohibits COSC-scale time keeping. I know some movements perform that well from reported regulation figures on posts — but that’s likely just good luck rather than design intent.
I understand that the timeographer only shows one position and that the watch may gain 6 spd in some other angle, and so on, but there’s a limit to the life of the movement too — so I’d likely have to swap it out or bin the piece at some point.
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Due to family constraints and the current economic climate with relation to academic employment, I’m not able to pick up gen anything anymore, and can’t sell the Bremont to anyone — so I’m trying to get into a piece that has the aesthetics I want but without the price tag that goes with it (I think this is the motivation to go the rep-route fir most of us).
I’m used to Rolex regulation, but can’t afford Rolex watches anymore. My Bremont has a modified 7750 in it which keeps +2spd, and anything above that isn’t going to work for me. I can source a new high-grade ETA, which could be regulated to perform better than -8spd, so that’s my only real option.
Andrew’s QC info stipulates that those who say that they can regulate a watch better than +/- 10spd are not being honest, and that the movement comes at the very best regulation. I don’t know that that’s true; I imagine that a serviced movement could do better (we all know that they’re dirty and may not be oiled), but it implies that there’s a limit to the construction of the movement that prohibits COSC-scale time keeping. I know some movements perform that well from reported regulation figures on posts — but that’s likely just good luck rather than design intent.
I understand that the timeographer only shows one position and that the watch may gain 6 spd in some other angle, and so on, but there’s a limit to the life of the movement too — so I’d likely have to swap it out or bin the piece at some point.
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Thanks! Any guesses as to the height of the posts on which the hands sit?
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New gen NATO now installed. It doesn't look this orange in real life, my Samsung phone does saturate the colours somewhat.
Thoughts?
The strap didn't come with the case, tool or spring bars even though the website showed they did. I've queried this with Ernest Jones.
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Thoughts?
The strap didn't come with the case, tool or spring bars even though the website showed they did. I've queried this with Ernest Jones.
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
Last edited:
- 23/6/17
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Looking good, i like the flashy orange. I love this watch on a Nato, i will go with an army green Nato.
If the Endpiece bothers you standing out you can try this method - saw it today:
https://youtu.be/LbKiWPF2ccs
you have to FF a bit.
mystic_cowboy
You're Saying I Can Sell?
- 6/6/20
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