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NOOB V3 116500LN announced! Whats new?

ginopino

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I will post pictures of the actual batch noob v3 when it arrives these days, i think noob has a lot of quality differences in their dial production.
Noob V2.2 is just a mythos, arf v1 or v2 both better than any noob dial...

Mythos related to what?
 

Digital.

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I wonder which dial is the best for the 116500 white. Noob V2.2 or ARF V2? It seems to me that the proportions of the Noob V2.2 are better than the ARF V2.

Arf v2. If you have one get it installed. If not sell it (to me ;-))
 
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Mark1937

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I will post pictures of the actual batch noob v3 when it arrives these days, i think noob has a lot of quality differences in their dial production.
Noob V2.2 is just a mythos, arf v1 or v2 both better than any noob dial...
 

Trickz

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Never seen any TD or Noob factory confirming that 2.2 is released just V2 and V3...
In my oppinion there are just quality differences in their batches... or why are there differently v3 dials out there now?
v3.2 and v3.3 maybe?
:)
 

Mark1937

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Never seen any TD or Noob factory confirming that 2.2 is released just V2 and V3...
In my oppinion there are just quality differences in their batches... or why are there differently v3 dials out there now?
v3.2 and v3.3 maybe?
:)

2.2 indicates a batch of dials with thinner counters, both on the white and black dials. And this type of dial is also used in the early V3
 

Trickz

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Ok anyway every noob dial and bezel have to be changed to arf/cf cause of poor noob quality so it doesnt matter how fat or thin noob subdials are...
someone noticed that nearly every v3 dial has this missaligned 6oclock marker?
 
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Tobel

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Ok anyway every noob dial and bezel have to be changed to arf/cf cause of poor noob quality so it doesnt matter how fat or thin noob subdials are...
someone noticed that nearly every v3 dial has this missaligned 6oclock marker?

For someone who joined just a month ago you're talking with a lot of certainty... This is just not true. Not all noob dials need to be changed to ARF, and not all noob bezels need to be changed into CF. There have been detailed analysis of dials and bezels that are available here on this forum. And Fyi it's much easier and cheaper to realign a marker - if it's at all necessary - than to source an ARF dial, shave it and replace a Noob dial.

Please don't go around spreading gross misinformation
 

Mark1937

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Ok anyway every noob dial and bezel have to be changed to arf/cf cause of poor noob quality so it doesnt matter how fat or thin noob subdials are...
someone noticed that nearly every v3 dial has this missaligned 6oclock marker?

I have been trying to understand which is the best dial for 6 months. While having them all I still don't know which one to install on my Noob V3. I have already installed the CF bezel on both white and black. As for the black V3, I was lucky to get one of the last with the thin counters, and this is the best dial for the black 116500. On white I still don't know what to do ... and I assure you that I am quite an expert having 4 Daytonas gen. So I advise you to read a lot and not make hasty judgments ;-)
 

Nikz19

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Hope this helps.

Noob V3 subdials print. Also notice markers and coronet shape.

20b98d3366c7f01f7230a6ab8fd3cd0f.jpg





ARF V2 subdials print, markers and coronet.

5c68dbc34c15cbc4ccace5e5690299f3.jpg


To be clear: printing is not visible unless upon CLOSE inspection. But the way those markers shine.. Oh mate. You have to see it in the flesh trust me.
 
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Mark1937

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Hope this helps.

Noob V3 subdials print. Also notice markers and coronet shape.

20b98d3366c7f01f7230a6ab8fd3cd0f.jpg





ARF V2 subdials print, markers and coronet.

5c68dbc34c15cbc4ccace5e5690299f3.jpg

surely the font of the ARF dial is better. My doubt is on the proportions of the dial, that is, on the size of the counters. for me it is more important than the font that you cannot see it with the naked eye. while the disproportionate counters immediately make me call fake. The best proportions are perhaps those of the Noob 2.2 dial. Maybe...
 

Nikz19

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The “glance” that the ARF markers have when reflecting light cannot be seen in pics, however is quite obvious when compared side by side by naked eye.

Speaking about proportions, what can be also seen is the distance of numbers in the subdials from the edge of the counters.

ARF has the same distance as gen. Noob numbers are exatcly at the center of the counter. Hope I’ve explained it well.

Gen for reference:
7497f734433bf9fafc5244e24cf27d8a.jpg
 
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M Scott

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Hope this helps.

ARF V2 subdials print, markers and coronet.

5c68dbc34c15cbc4ccace5e5690299f3.jpg

The ARF V2 dial that you are using for illustration is an earlier version with thinner Sub-dials.

The latest version has Sub-dials that are about the same thickness as a Gen.

 
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SuperLory

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nobody buying a 116520 black dial now to see if they have gotten rid of those fat tyre subdials ?
 

Nikz19

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The ARF V2 dial that you are using for illustration is an earlier version with thinner Sub-dials.

The latest version has Sub-dials that are about the same thickness as a Gen.


I specifically searched for that “thin” dial, cause I see it as a much more harmonious shape overall.
However, holding it next to a gen, you CANNOT see that <1mm difference in thickness unless taking a close pic of both and use a caliper to measure it.
Hands down if someone else can, I’m unable to.

But what can be clearly seen when holding both together, is that “gen aura” (like someone else said in another 3d) that makes the non-aficionado watch guy (because let’s face it, the aficionados are like 0.2% of the people you usually meet) to point out the noob as the fake one between the two.

Check this pic: imagine you’ve never seen a Daytona before (if not on pics), and get told those are one gen and one fake. which one would you think it’s the replica?

d4efce87afdbdd217d9aa016af48023a.jpg
 

M Scott

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Check this pic: imagine you’ve never seen a Daytona before (if not on pics), and get told those are one gen and one fake. which one would you think it’s the replica?

d4efce87afdbdd217d9aa016af48023a.jpg

But both are Replicas, V3 Noob on the left with Sub-dials that are too thick, and an Early V2 ARF on the right with Sub-dials that are thinner than Gen.
 

Bobi01

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I specifically searched for that “thin” dial, cause I see it as a much more harmonious shape overall.
However, holding it next to a gen, you CANNOT see that <1mm difference in thickness unless taking a close pic of both and use a caliper to measure it.
Hands down if someone else can, I’m unable to.

But what can be clearly seen when holding both together, is that “gen aura” (like someone else said in another 3d) that makes the non-aficionado watch guy (because let’s face it, the aficionados are like 0.2% of the people you usually meet) to point out the noob as the fake one between the two.

Check this pic: imagine you’ve never seen a Daytona before (if not on pics), and get told those are one gen and one fake. which one would you think it’s the replica?

d4efce87afdbdd217d9aa016af48023a.jpg

Both reps,right is noob with arf dial and bezel and left one i cant specify it...maybe gen but bezel looks like fading or im wrong?
 

Nikz19

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Sorry, should have said they’re clearly both reps, one is noob and one ARF.
I meant to look at it like someone who never seen a gen before (non-aficionado watch guy)
 
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Mark1937

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Gen is in the middle between Noob V3 and ARF V1