NOOB V3 116500LN announced! Whats new?

[Flock]

I have been reading and reading about this Noob V3 and I honestly still don’t know what to do with it… pull the trigger, wait a little for a new and desirable better batch…

Take a look to this example. It’s a recent Noob V3 a friend of mine bought.

I don’t know if it’s my eyes or whatever, but I don’t know anymore if these actual batch have good SEL or not, if these are normal subdials, fat subdials, fit subdials or whatever!

My eyes are so confused right now that I even see fat and thin subdials at the same time on this dial!! I swear that I almost see a fat subdial and 2 thinner subdials lol

I wonder why factories do this to us :-(

Enviado do meu iPhone usando o Tapatalk

 

[M Scott]

I have been reading and reading about this Noob V3 and I honestly still don’t know what to do with it… pull the trigger, wait a little for a new and desirable better batch…

Take a look to this example. It’s a recent Noob V3 a friend of mine bought.

I don’t know if it’s my eyes or whatever, but I don’t know anymore if these actual batch have good SEL or not, if these are normal subdials, fat subdials, fit subdials or whatever!

My eyes are so confused right now that I even see fat and thin subdials at the same time on this dial!! I swear that I almost see a fat subdial and 2 thinner subdials lol

I wonder why factories do this to us :-(

This would the old V1-V2 dial with "fat" sub-dials. On a White dial Panda the difference is very slight...
.

 

[xxBlack]

But why did they do that? They had perfect sub dials and now changed it? Makes no sense...

 

[Funtimezz]

Probably so the v4 can have consistent thinner subdials

 

[xxBlack]

Probably so the v4 can have consistent thinner subdials

New V4 OUT NOW BEST BATCH! THIN SUBDIALS! ORDER NOW. And then it has a new flaw. Probably too fat font

 

[Fab87pz]

I have my V3 black dial (fat) since one week an many friends spotted it and asked for it and took a closer look because they were surprised how quick I got the Daytona ;-)
Nobody had any doubt that this watch is not real an most of them took a really close look!
If you are a Rolex nerd showing up with a magnifying glass you have a chance to spot it as Rep.
One thing said I own some real Rolex and no one believes that I am dealing with a Rep

Just for me I got a gen. 116520 black dial, an ARF clasp and a CF bezel to make it more as perfect!
Mod will be done in Jan. 2020.

For all who just want a perfect Rep I think the Noob is the best way to go at the moment.

Mate it won't be perfect because 116520 dial has different font spacing from the 116500ln dial.. But this is just nitpicking. The watch will be great.

 

[actarox]

Hi guys,

Just received my QC pics and I'm about to approve them.


I did some research on the timegraph results and I'm in the acceptable zones for the different indicators with a perfect 0.0ms beat error https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...ssion/6910404-how-to-read-timegrapher-results

Thanks again for your support, I'll update you when I receive the rep.
Cheers.

 

[dmnk]

actarox

​​​​​​Which TD and how long did it take?

 

[Julienh]

QC pics looks perfect to me. This white dial as so far better dial than black one.

 

[actarox]

dmnk

27/11 ordered via puretime website (Bitcoin payment)
28/11 Received the payment details per email
same day Bitcoin transfer (730$ instead of 697$...)
29/11 payment reception confirmed
06/12 QC pics, 24 hours to accept or reject

 

[M Scott]

But why did they do that? They had perfect sub dials and now changed it? Makes no sense...

Just speculation, but early last summer Noob was shut down for a month or two by Police raids. Now they are desperately trying to keep up with demand and their quality seems to be suffering for it.

Maybe they have more than one dial supplier as somehow they have mixed in the old V1-V2 dials in both the Black and White Ceramic version Daytonas.

Maybe Noob used supplier #2 for the correct "V2.2" dials but they were a little more expensive or they couldn't produce enough, so they switched back to supplier #1 and the old V1-V2 dials?

Again, this is just speculation of what could have happened, but obviously someone at Noob has made a mistake and a step backward.

 

[M Scott]

Okay, the edit button is my friend... so now this is a current ARF vs Noob Daytona picture...

Right Click and Open Image in a New Tab to see it Larger...

 

[Bobi01]

These are both very resent QC pictures from the same TD, so the lighting and high resolution are very similar.

These pictures illustrate the difference in thickness of the sub-dials in the two different dials that Noob is currently using for the V3 White Dial Panda Daytonas.

- The difference is very slight and most people would never see it "on the wrist" unless the two were compared side by side.
- Some other members suspected this problem and these pictures confirm it.

Right Click and Open Image in a New Tab to see it Larger...

Bro left daytona is from arf hahaha

 

[Wolfrlx]

Thanks ... but which one would be the most similar to gen?

 

[RepHoro]

Okay, the edit button is my friend... so now this is a current ARF vs Noob Daytona picture...

Right Click and Open Image in a New Tab to see it Larger...

So I did some experimentation on the sundials. We all see it. The sundials on the right are “fatter” than the ones on the left - but is this true? Or is it an optical illusion caused by slight differences in the luminosity of the numbers printed on the sub dials or perhaps the position of the hands.

I took both images and enlarged each one so that it so completely filled the screen. I then made small adjustments so that the outside diameter each dial was exactly the size. I called this diameter 10.0 units. I then carefully measured thickness of the each subdial (several times in different locations for accuracy) and in fact there was a difference. The Sub Dial thickness (the black ring) on the “V2.2” (the image on the left) measured 1.60 units. The subdial on the right - the “V1-V2” dial measured 1.68 units. That puts the area of the black ring of the sub dial on the fat dial at 43.91 units and the skinny dial at 42.22 units - That’s doesn’t sound like a lot - only about a 4% difference in size - but it’s a testimont to how great the human eye is that a 4% difference leaps off the screen. But that should not surprise us - the Eye is capable of resolving a 1 mm line from 10,000 mm distance - let alone the most minute change in woman’s smile - I bet all of us “see” when our wives put on 6-7lbs even if we dare not say a word. Human ability to see correct proportion is amazing. I think it also is what makes a real Rolex “pop” more in real life than even the best of reps - even when you can’t point out precisely why.

So it’s not an illusion - the fat dial is about 4% fatter than the much applauded V2.2 dial. And that’s a lot! And yes I did do comparison between the V2.2 dial and gen - and they were very close - margin of error stuff - so they did get right.

 

[ssouthall6]

A non-issue in my opinion.

Noob numerals slightly thicker
ARF slightly thinner against an over exposed gen pic

This is on a macro ffs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nikz19]

So I did some experimentation on the sundials. We all see it. The sundials on the right are “fatter” than the ones on the left - but is this true? Or is it an optical illusion caused by slight differences in the luminosity of the numbers printed on the sub dials or perhaps the position of the hands.

I took both images and enlarged each one so that it so completely filled the screen. I then made small adjustments so that the outside diameter each dial was exactly the size. I called this diameter 10.0 units. I then carefully measured thickness of the each subdial (several times in different locations for accuracy) and in fact there was a difference. The Sub Dial thickness (the black ring) on the “V2.2” (the image on the left) measured 1.60 units. The subdial on the right - the “V1-V2” dial measured 1.68 units. That puts the area of the black ring of the sub dial on the fat dial at 43.91 units and the skinny dial at 42.22 units - That’s doesn’t sound like a lot - only about a 4% difference in size - but it’s a testimont to how great the human eye is that a 4% difference leaps off the screen. But that should not surprise us - the Eye is capable of resolving a 1 mm line from 10,000 mm distance - let alone the most minute change in woman’s smile - I bet all of us “see” when our wives put on 6-7lbs even if we dare not say a word. Human ability to see correct proportion is amazing. I think it also is what makes a real Rolex “pop” more in real life than even the best of reps - even when you can’t point out precisely why.

So it’s not an illusion - the fat dial is about 4% fatter than the much applauded V2.2 dial. And that’s a lot! And yes I did do comparison between the V2.2 dial and gen - and they were very close - margin of error stuff - so they did get right.

Sending QC pics to you must be one hell of a nightmare for any TD, you’re talking about macro pics ffs (you even said you had to enlarge the pic to full screen to see it)


Inviato dal mio iPhone 11 Pro utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[wubsub]

interesting hah!

a real easy way to tell is to check the 9 on the left subdial. it is centred on the fat one while on the skinny/arf/gen it is hairline closer to the centre.

 

[RepHoro]

Sending QC pics to you must be one hell of a nightmare for any TD, you’re talking about macro pics ffs (you even said you had to enlarge the pic to full screen to see it)


Inviato dal mio iPhone 11 Pro utilizzando Tapatalk

I have over 40 reps and 9 of which are Daytona's - 2 ARFs and 7 4130s. Of the 7 Noobs I have variations in
all the dials. I've never asked for QC pics because I select them from my dealer in Beijing (I travel there frequently).
i appreciate the hobby and never bust on the factories - Except when they seem to go backward - it's more of a frustration because you know they are capable of more. We also need to realize that although a Rolex Daytona rep may be our particular passion - they have literally hundreds of models that get produced and the guys who spec and QC them have varying levels of expertness in all those models. To me the Noob is worth it mainly for the movement - everything else that they get right is just gravy. Btw - the most accurate watch I have - out of the 40 reps and 4 genuine Rolex's is a Noob 4130
that stays within 3 seconds per week. The movement truley is amazing.

The other thing I wanted to mention is that you may have missed my point about the whole exercise. You seem to think that you have to blow it up to full screen size to notice a difference- and I was saying it was just the opposite! You can easily detect the 4% difference in size in the photos above and also on the wrist. I did the exercise because there was a poster a couple of pages back who expressed difficulty in seeing the difference in sizes and wondered if there was in fact any difference at all. I think most members here can easily see the difference as has been expressed in endless posts but for that guy and others who think that we are all seeing what is not there - I measured it and verified the difference in size. I for one wish I didn't see the difference because it would make life a lot easier not having to mod the dials or franken the watches - but the fact is that for most of us - the size is readily aparantly as is the shinniness issue on the black dials and its one of those things you decide to live with or obsess over franken fixing! For me It's the obsession that makes this hobby so addicting!

 

[Mark1937]

I have over 40 reps and 9 of which are Daytona's - 2 ARFs and 7 4130s. Of the 7 Noobs I have variations in
all the dials. I've never asked for QC pics because I select them from my dealer in Beijing (I travel there frequently).
i appreciate the hobby and never bust on the factories - Except when they seem to go backward - it's more of a frustration because you know they are capable of more. We also need to realize that although a Rolex Daytona rep may be our particular passion - they have literally hundreds of models that get produced and the guys who spec and QC them have varying levels of expertness in all those models. To me the Noob is worth it mainly for the movement - everything else that they get right is just gravy. Btw - the most accurate watch I have - out of the 40 reps and 4 genuine Rolex's is a Noob 4130
that stays within 3 seconds per week. The movement truley is amazing.

The other thing I wanted to mention is that you may have missed my point about the whole exercise. You seem to think that you have to blow it up to full screen size to notice a difference- and I was saying it was just the opposite! You can easily detect the 4% difference in size in the photos above and also on the wrist. I did the exercise because there was a poster a couple of pages back who expressed difficulty in seeing the difference in sizes and wondered if there was in fact any difference at all. I think most members here can easily see the difference as has been expressed in endless posts but for that guy and others who think that we are all seeing what is not there - I measured it and verified the difference in size. I for one wish I didn't see the difference because it would make life a lot easier not having to mod the dials or franken the watches - but the fact is that for most of us - the size is readily aparantly as is the shinniness issue on the black dials and its one of those things you decide to live with or obsess over franken fixing! For me It's the obsession that makes this hobby so addicting!

did you notice that ARF also made 2 different dials? One with thinner counters and the other (latest version) with just subdials like Gen and some few Noob V2.2