Workshop snapshots - an insight into some of the things I come across

[Solution6]

The Explore's Stone.

Another Indiana Jones adventure? Almost, a trusty and well loved 3 year old Explorer which seized up and lost its impulse stone (roller impulse pin jewel).

A decorated Asian 2836 with red painted auto wheels. Over time the paint flaked and spread around the movement. That mixed with poor quality oils from the factory, turned into the perfect formula for disintegrating parts. The pressure resulted into the balance impulse jewel to make a run for it.







As this is a solid movement with plenty of replacement parts available, the impulse jewel, ETA genuine auto wheels and escape wheel all replaced, plus a full service, had it ready for its next adventures

 

[Solution6]

To continue with the reversing wheels saga, this is what a damaged reversing wheel tooth sounds like.

The work was done on a GMT as part of a service and genuine parts upgrade.

Part swapped and the crickets were gone

 

[Vi-Lo]

Very very interesting! Great work

 

[Solution6]

The danger zone.

I'm sure you might have heard about changing the date on your watch in the 'danger zone'. This affects movements in different ways with some ending up being damaged if forced. The danger zone of watch setting is between the hours of 9pm and 3am.

So, if you want to be on the safe side and manually change your date after your watch has stopped, manually adjust the time a few hours ahead making sure you're past 12 o'clock.

Here's a short video demonstrating the impact this has on a caliber 3xxx and its date indicator driving wheel pin

 

[Solution6]

A facelift - Daytona genuine Xtal, dial and hands update.

While it was opened I decided to re-finish the rehaut a bit due to fabrication markings.

 

[Solution6]

AR problems.

Unfortunately top coated AR Xtals scratch sometime and the only solution is a polish - diamond paste does the trick

This Omega got serviced and looking fresh again.

 

[Solution6]

The missing crown.

A Tag loved for about 10 years since its last service. During this time some rust affected it and it lost its crown plus some fibres left inside by the previous technician.

A good clean, new crown and it was ticking happily again.

 

[Solution6]

The Daytona project.

As much as I try to stay away from dial shaving related adventures, this was worth it. Armed with a good example of ingenuity from @KJ2020, and a few tweaks, I ended up with a freshly shaved ARF dial to fit a Noob case.

As the motif here was a vintage looking piece, we ended up with a bit of inspiration from the past, with a clean rehaut, brushed lugs, bezel and bracelet.

The switch also helped get rid of the milky Xtal ring.




The milky ring comes from the Xtal gasket.



The green line marks the space where a Noob/gen spec dial would sit, and the red line where the ARF dial was in terms of size, so a full 1mm had to come off.



A bit of fabrication to have the dial sitting centered and slowly the microns left the dial.



Also the rehaut, case, bezel and bracelet got a a fresh look.



A few adjustments later, we had a good looking new old watch

 

[KJ2020]

Absolutely beautiful work bro - such a nice dial and love the vintage tweaks. That baby is sweet!

 

[Solution6]

Absolutely beautiful work bro - such a nice dial and love the vintage tweaks. That baby is sweet!

Thank you good sir.

Your tip on the E6000 glue was great.

 

[Solution6]

Alignement.

This was a project I had in my drawer for a while as I was disappointed with the dial markers alignment.

Decided to remove these, shave the marker feet and then re-glue with better alignment - quite happy with the results.

Also the dial was a bit flat, so decided to give it a bit more depth by adding some texture.

 

[nvs]

You my friend are god level 8
Love ya work

 

[Solution6]

You my friend are god level 8
Love ya work

 

[Solution6]

Homage to the Rolex way.

The safest way to remove the bezel assembly on the new turning bezels is the Rolex way - a pusher putting pressure on a point on the Xtal while the bezel gets supported from underneath.

Normally the case would be on a specifically designed case die (££££) but the Bergeon lug holders from a case back press work just fine.

The pusher is V 0.1 as I didn't put a lot of effort into polishing etc.

 

[Oilime]

Such a nice and fascinating reading this has been. Many thanks for it Sir

 

[Solution6]

Another Vietnam custom vintage build in the wild

 

[Oascom]

Homage to the Rolex way.

The safest way to remove the bezel assembly on the new turning bezels is the Rolex way - a pusher putting pressure on a point on the Xtal while the bezel gets supported from underneath.

Normally the case would be on a specifically designed case die (££££) but the Bergeon lug holders from a case back press work just fine.

The pusher is V 0.1 as I didn't put a lot of effort into polishing etc.

That's brilliant mate ! If you don't mind I'll share it with some of my colleagues. This can save them $$$

I switched my bezel removing combo from rack press to this, a bit more control

 

[Solution6]

That's brilliant mate ! If you don't mind I'll share it with some of my colleagues. This can save them $$$

I switched my bezel removing combo from rack press to this, a bit more control

It was your design I got inspiration from, for the press and pusher Just had to improvise on the holder (you have all the good stuff, hehe).

Bezels pop off really nicely and securely, but the hytrel still suffers.

 

[Oascom]

It was your design I got inspiration from, for the press and pusher Just had to improvise on the holder (you have all the good stuff, hehe).

Bezels pop off really nicely and securely, but the hytrel still suffers.

I did little modifications today just to test it out for fun:

 

[Solution6]

I did little modifications today just to test it out for fun:

Great stuff, much easier with the base This works well and easy to adjust, and cheaper solution to the RLX case dies.